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06-10-2003, 07:23 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Whittier, CA
Posts: 55
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Please, no flames for this next question. I need to learn a whole lot more about vehicle maintenance, I know, but...
Normally, I'm so swamped that I'll take my Jeep to an EZ Lube to get the usual oil change. These guys are relentless salesmen. I refer to the owner's manual for fluid replacement intervals and such. What's your quick rundown of scheduled maintenance?
I use Mobil 1 synthetic blend 10/30 for the oil. Need to change the differential fluid at 12K miles, right? Is Mobil good for that too?
Also, they filled up my 31s to 45psi! Seems kinda high, what should they be at?
At 15K miles, I've never done the proper lubrications - tie rods steering, suspension. Most of you guys do this stuff yourself, I'm sure. Any direction would be helpful...
Thanks for the input...
__________________
2002 Silverstone "X" TJ
4.0L 5Spd Soft-top
AR Bajas 31x10.5
Bridgestone AT Dueler
Nerf bumpers/sidesteps
everything else stock... for now
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06-10-2003, 09:57 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 139
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Ken - sorry to hijack your thread but how does your 'X' do with the 31 inch tires? I am assuming you have the 3.07 gears - any issues??
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North Carolina 2002 TJ Owner
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06-10-2003, 10:07 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 719
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If the shop you go to is filling your tires to 45psi, FIND ANOTHER SHOP! Your tires should be nowhere near that. Maybe 25-28 lbs range.
As far as the other maintenance goes, just follow the owner's manual. There should be a list of fluids by type for each of your Jeep's areas.
You may consider buying a factory dealer service manual (about 50 bucks from the dealership). This has exploded views of all your Jeep components, as well as torque settings for every bolt, fluid levels, etc. Just a thought.
Markus.
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[URL=http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/370762]HEAVILY ARMOURED 2002 SAHARA[/URL]
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06-10-2003, 10:55 PM
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#4
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Registered Abuser
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: WTF, VA
Posts: 1,614
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Quote:
Originally posted by Markus
If the shop you go to is filling your tires to 45psi, FIND ANOTHER SHOP!....
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When I bought my 33's - 6 years ago, sears had filled them to 50PSI each.. I asked if the tech was trained on the Air Compressor or if it was just somebodys kid helping out. Shop manager said it was standard practice to fill all the tires to the maximum capacity -- just as you would a gas tank.
That was the first time I aired down in a Sears parking lot.
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06-10-2003, 11:02 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: OR.
Posts: 295
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Yeh, you have got to be carefull of shops. Sears is the worst, they hire nascar and 2F2F drop outs. I bought tires from them and got a flat, I had to break 3 lugs cause they cross threaded them. I didnt think of it at the time but I saw the guy place the nut in the air gun then spin it up to speed and jam it on the threads like he was in the pits.
Crawlin'Ken, Keep studing and asking questions, buy some manuals and tools, Take your time, ask more questions and you will do a far better job than any shop.
good luck
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02 TJ sport, Teraflex 3", 33X12.5, 4.0, 5spd.,D30/D44 4:56 w/rear detroit
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06-11-2003, 05:16 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 628
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Do your own oil/lube.....very simple task, good way to start getting you hands dirty a little  But watch out....it can be addictive
Mobil1 products are as good as anything else out there for your motor, Tcase, diffs etc. Just changing the stuff out when you should will make a big difference as the rig gets older. As a side note to this, I keep a "Jeep Log" where I keep my receipts for all maintence or work done on my TJ.....When I traded my 02X for the Rubi, I was hoping for $16K trade at best....I ended up up getting $19K because of my "Jeep Log" and receipt's. They seemed to be impressed with the 3 oil changes I did on a 12k mile Jeep.
I dont do the quick lube places, they are a dumping ground for HS drop outs and the mentally questionable. Do your own, they arent to messy and only take 30 to 45 minutes start to finish tops and moving slow with a hangover on sunday AM  I grease the front end while the oil drains and Im actually done in @25 minutes.
Diff oil changes are very simple, but can be very messy if your not careful.
Good luck
Todd
__________________
03 Rubicon Shale Green 5 speed
[size=2][color=darkolivegreen]*Engine=Stock* *Armor=OYR Rear Corners, SkidRow Engine Skid, OEM Rockers* *Lift=OME 942HD & 933HD Coils, OME N66 & N67 HD Shocks, ACOS front and rear, 1-1/4" JKS BL, JKS front Track Bar* *Tires/Wheels= 12.5x33" Interco TrXus MT's mounted on 15x8 Cragar 397 Steelies* *Bumpers and Carrier=Jeeperman Rock bumpers front and rear* * Other Stuff=1" M.O.R.E Bombproof Torsion Rubber MML, Meridian Gold GPS, CE 8k Winch*[/color][/size]
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06-11-2003, 09:49 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Whittier, CA
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally posted by OK-TJ
Ken - sorry to hijack your thread but how does your 'X' do with the 31 inch tires? I am assuming you have the 3.07 gears - any issues??
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OK-TJ, I do run my 31s on 307s and they're not bad at all. Personally, I wouldn't go any bigger until I'm ready to regear. I like having a 5th gear on the freeway...
To the rest here: Thanks for the help, I know "experts" at some shops just aren't experts at all. For me, putting the time in to become my own mechanical expert is difficult, but maybe necessary, eh?
Thanks again for your input, guys, without jumping on me for my mechanical shortcomings!
__________________
2002 Silverstone "X" TJ
4.0L 5Spd Soft-top
AR Bajas 31x10.5
Bridgestone AT Dueler
Nerf bumpers/sidesteps
everything else stock... for now
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06-11-2003, 10:29 AM
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#8
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Do it right or not at all
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 57,644
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crawlin'Ken
Thanks again for your input, guys, without jumping on me for my mechanical shortcomings!
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A Jeep has turned more than a few guys into pretty fair mechanics Ken. It often starts out by simply adding an easily installed spacer lift or even just changing your own differential fluid. First a trip to Sears to buy their $99 mechanics tool set and the next thing you know, you have a big red cabinet full of tools and there's not much you're afraid to tackle. Ask me how I know that.
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06-11-2003, 10:32 AM
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#9
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Lets go Penguins!!!!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Camas, WA
Posts: 3,204
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The shopd here fill to max pressure in tires as a rule also. A simple "Hey can you do 26lbs in the tires?" request has always solved the problem for me.
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06-11-2003, 12:54 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Chicago, IL USA!
Posts: 92
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I'm wondering about the synthetic in the diffs/trans/xfer too. I talked to a Redline seller who told me I would improve wear characteristics and get like 10% better mileage  for switching all the gear oils to synth. Or to Redline synth, anyway.
Definitely change your oil yourself. Like someone said, it's about the easiest way to start familiarizing yourself with that big tinkertoy you've got in the garage now. I did all the changes on my 02, but I won't be on my 03... the dealer threw in free lifetime oil changes when I bought it!!!  Now if I could only get them to do it with the synth...
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06-11-2003, 02:51 PM
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#11
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Lets go Penguins!!!!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Camas, WA
Posts: 3,204
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If you want the synth why not ask the service manager if he'll do synth for the cost diff? Should only be a couple bucks as labor is what kills ya.
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06-11-2003, 03:00 PM
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#12
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Do it right or not at all
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 57,644
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rockatansky
I'm wondering about the synthetic in the diffs/trans/xfer too. I talked to a Redline seller who told me I would improve wear characteristics and get like 10% better mileage for switching all the gear oils to synth. Or to Redline synth, anyway.
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Though I like and use Redline products, I believe claims of 10%, for example, improved fuel economy over similar viscosity quality mineral-based lubricants are BS. I have all synthetics in my drivetrain and axles and run synthetic in the engine if I'm expecting harsh wheeling conditions, but I swear, my mileage isn't affected one way or the other in a meaningful amount... or at least enough that I can see any difference.
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06-11-2003, 03:41 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 628
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jerry Bransford
Though I like and use Redline products, I believe claims of 10%, for example, improved fuel economy over similar viscosity quality mineral-based lubricants are BS. I have all synthetics in my drivetrain and axles and run synthetic in the engine if I'm expecting harsh wheeling conditions, but I swear, my mileage isn't affected one way or the other in a meaningful amount... or at least enough that I can see any difference.
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I agree 100%.....dont fall for the increase mileage BS. Ive been using synth's in everything for over 25 years and its never increased my mileage in anything. What synth's do way better than dino oil is give you wider range of protection so it hits the more extreme sides of hot/cold. I use Mobil1 in my engine and Amsoil in the Diffs and Tcase. Both have pour points down to -40F and can handle a lot more boil over temps than dino oil could ever handle. Excesive heat has never been my problem, but up here in New England we can see some very cold temps and long winters so the low pour point is more important to me.
One example that showed me what synths can handle heat wise happened at a Winston Cup race 7-8 years ago where Jeff Gordon won the race.....I think It was at Talledaga.....his temp guage was maxed out at @315F and showed @10-15 lbs of oil pressure for about the last 15 laps.....that was amazing that the motor didnt self distruct....I remember hearing an interview later from Ray Evernham that it was the Synth oil that they just started using that season that won the race for them that day.
Todd
__________________
03 Rubicon Shale Green 5 speed
[size=2][color=darkolivegreen]*Engine=Stock* *Armor=OYR Rear Corners, SkidRow Engine Skid, OEM Rockers* *Lift=OME 942HD & 933HD Coils, OME N66 & N67 HD Shocks, ACOS front and rear, 1-1/4" JKS BL, JKS front Track Bar* *Tires/Wheels= 12.5x33" Interco TrXus MT's mounted on 15x8 Cragar 397 Steelies* *Bumpers and Carrier=Jeeperman Rock bumpers front and rear* * Other Stuff=1" M.O.R.E Bombproof Torsion Rubber MML, Meridian Gold GPS, CE 8k Winch*[/color][/size]
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