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low lift, long shocks, and DIY shock shifters... what's the advantage?

172K views 383 replies 91 participants last post by  Fargo 
#1 ·
finally got some more decent pics so I'll shed some light on the subject.

running 10" long travel shocks on 2.5" lifts poses an uptravel problem in the rear, they tend to leave about 2.75"-3.25" before the shocks bottom out, which can lead to mount, shock, bushing, and bar pin damage. there's a couple different threads with arguments on whether or not 2.75-3.25" of uptravel is enough. it's not for me, or especially a daily driver.

I've made several pairs and even sent off a few mounts to other forum members to run. I've yet to see any of em installed tho.

here's a couple different relocation brackets I made and installed on Saturday and the process involved... dbbd1's tj and cb3's LJ.

all that's needed to make these is a grinder and a 12" piece of 2x3" 3/16" tube steel... then weld em on, I'm still working on some bolt on's but it's kinda a PITA, I prefer to burn em anyhow.

I have a couple different patterns, high clearance, which I use for fully out board shocks, and longer mounts that accommodate the long shocks in the stock upper mounts and give about 1.5" in additional travel which improves the ride quality and they also seem more stable.



mark em..



use a 4" cutoff wheel in the grinder and cut em out.




form the radius if ya don't have a torch to use.





this version gets the center pushed in for more welding surface on the axle.




punch and drill a 5/8" hole.




a 1 ton Chevy front shock mount works great to mount the shock, I actually prefer a 3.25" long grade 8 fine threaded bolt...



the other version.



mount em parallel to the shock on the axle, which is generally 4" from the control arm bolt.




burn em on....




so..... what did we accomplish here with a 2.5" lift and 24.25" long extended, 14.25" collapsed shocks?

it's self explanatory if you can read a tape! they are measured at ride height... ya, no joke this is the advantage.. went from 2.75" uptravel to 4 5/8" without loosing any downtravel....

stock mounts...



DIY lower shock shifters...




I have the mounts on CAD now and have them made as needed!

 
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#345 ·
Some more front towers..
I Set this one up to run 16.9"/28.5" shocks on a half inch bumpstop extension. Rokmen fenders and 35" tires with 3" lift prings @19.5' free length and 3/4" spacer. The coils come loose enough to spin them, the tires can barely scrub the fenders fully articulated.



@ ride height





In order to accomplish using a stock to 1/2" bumpstop extension, the track bar cannot be any longer than a 1/4" over stock length. The cups will land on the knuckles and pinch the springs..

If you noticed, yes, i left off the the bilstien spacers that hold the boots on the shock shaft. It reduces the collapsed length by 3/8"
 
#346 ·
I have been looking to outboard my shocks. I did not want to cut my frame.
I did not like the stock location. I already relocated the lowers by following this thread.
I can fit my shock in this location with out rubbing the tire. I run 35's with 4.5" back spacing 4.5" long arm.
What effect will running the shock is this position? To keep clearance I need to run the rod end up.
I am looking for as shock 16" collapsed and 26-28 extended.
 

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#347 ·
I have been looking to outboard my shocks. I did not want to cut my frame.
I did not like the stock location. I already relocated the lowers by following this thread.
I can fit my shock in this location with out rubbing the tire. I run 35's with 4.5" back spacing 4.5" long arm.
What effect will running the shock is this position? To keep clearance I need to run the rod end up.
I am looking for as shock 16" collapsed and 26-28 extended.
The tj's seem to respond with more stability imo.

Put a tack weld on and cycle the suspension with the springs removed in every possible position to make sure the shock bodies dont catch the frame.

There are a couple rigs ive seen claiming success in that position without cutting into the frame. Ive never personally tried to make it work.
i can tell you it wont work with the 11-14" travel shocks i use.
 
#349 ·
The shock I wanted to try was a RC 8178.

Will it hurt the shock running upside down?
Hydro's dont like to be upside down. Some of the charged shocks like bilstien can be flipped.
 
#350 ·
Here is a pic of my frame before I cut into it. I was running a Super 88 rear axle, 15x10" rims with 4" backspacing, 37" old style MT/Rs, Ballistic Fab coil mounts, a forward mounted Anti-Rock, and Doetsch Tech shocks that were 15.5" collapsed, 26.5" extended.

Two pics of the upper mount, which stands roughly 3.5" above the frame, and 1.5" away from the frame. One pic of the lower mount, which hung very low from the axle, but I never had any problems with it mounted that low.

I was running Speedway lower shock mounts. Which are adjustable from 3-5" below the axle center line. Plus, they were only $15 each.

The last pic is a random pic just showing another view of the Speedway mount.

I ran this setup for almost two years. Both mounts were in single shear because it was temporary. I had no problems with that setup.

Out-boarding the shocks really improves the stability of the rear of the Jeep.
 

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#352 ·
I was running the 8336. I now run 3371 since I out boarded, stretched, and switched to aluminum corners. I run 8371 in front. The 8k shocks are stiffer, and the 3k shocks are softer.

I guess an advantage to a top stud would be just welding a tab vertically off the frame would be pretty easy. But I don't know if I like that idea.
 
#353 ·
I was running the 8336. I now run 3371 since I out boarded, stretched, and switched to aluminum corners. I run 8371 in front. The 8k shocks are stiffer, and the 3k shocks are softer.

I guess an advantage to a top stud would be just welding a tab vertically off the frame would be pretty easy. But I don't know if I like that idea.
How'd you like those Speedway mounts?
 
#354 ·
BamaJeepman21 said:
How'd you like those Speedway mounts?
They hung pretty low, but were cheap. They were made from 3/16" steel and had plenty of weld area.

I remember when I posted about those on here and was reprimanded for not moving the shock mounts UP. Honestly, I mounted them right behind my LCAs and the only hung down an inch or so below that. They never once hung me up.

I cut them off and welded the RuffStuff shock mounts on when I outboarded because I needed to rotate the lower shock mounts anyway.
 
#355 ·
Michael mortan
 
#356 ·
Hey Dave! Thanks for referring me to this thread! Great read!

When, or should I say if, I ever get the funds to outboard I would want to do the Fox 2.5' coil-Overs, which are adjustable. And to accompany that a wheelbase stretch for dual cases. Any recommendations on the best way to stretch a TJ and a cost "estimate". You can PM me if you want.

However, Its Morton, not mortan lol :laugh:
 
#358 ·
I could guestimate if theres a measurement of how far below the center of the tube, the bolt center is on the mount.
 
#360 ·
3" below axle center and 1" above the stock upper frame mount puts you about 19" @ ride height with a 2.5 lift.
 
#362 ·
Another mount pattern today....

3.5" lift, OME n67L rear shock 14.5/24.5". Set at 5" uptravel, 15 3/4" spring free length.

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#363 ·
Any chance you've got a set of lower mounts for an lj so I can actually run the ome long travels I've got heading my way? I've looked into this thread a bunch of times over the last couple years, but it's now something I want to try and do. I'm really not trying to lift my jeep anymore, but I want to be able to run a decently long travel shock with stock upper mounts. I definitely want to pay you for your materials and your time, I just don't have the means of making them myself. Thanks mud!
 
#364 ·


Got another batch made.
 
#372 ·
Crazy how time goes by..... still doing the same old stuff!


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
#373 ·
Crazy how time goes by..... still doing the same old stuff!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Do you ever move out the bottom bracket without doing the full tower? If so, how do you handle the top mount?

I have the Nth degree shock shifters, but when I used the included top mount I lost an inch of upward travel and had to add bumpstop. So I quit using the shock shifters and went back to stock location. I'd be curious at how you handle the top mounts without adding the towers.
 
#380 ·
the shock can still move around a bit left to right, or front to back, in the upper mount.
i had to cut the cans off my shocks, for them to fit in the mount.
not all shocks have a can, yours might not.
it has rubber mounts, they allow some movement.

pull the springs, rubber bump stops, and shocks, disconnect the sway bar links.
push it to full bump on one side, full droop on the other.
adjust your mounts so the shock has about 1/4 inch of travel left,
b4 it bottoms out on the side on the bump stop.
repeat on the other side. the rear is easier than the front imho.
this is the best way to balance your travel.
you should not need more than 2" of bump stop extension.

cutting the lower mount off and making it the size u need it pretty simple.
it aint gotta b pretty. if it aint your bump stop, it dont need to be that strong even.
the factory mounts appear to be 1/8" thick steel.
you can maximize your available travel with the shocks you got, or longer ones.
10" to 12" shocks should be doable with too much work.

google "jks upper shock relocator".
that bought me an extra inch up top, but this could be done without them as well.

or buy a different length shock, that matches your mounts without overcompressing?
 
#381 ·
I looked on the jks website before but couldn't find anything that matched your description. I did find these terraflex. Is this what you are referring to? I'll have to consider this. Unfortunately, I don't think they will work with my 5160 since the tube is on top.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16191_504.htm
 
#382 ·
yup thats them.
was thinking they were jks for some reason.
been a few years now, sorry.

ya, if they are tube on top they wont work.
bummer.

is it possible to invert the shocks?
i assume no.

take good measurements, and move they lowers till they fit.
 
#383 ·
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