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Unread 08-30-2011, 12:42 AM   #136
rs4race
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Im curious about the shock shifters. I just finished relocating my upper coil mounts and with the axle jacked up (May have been too high) I pulled the shock over where it would sit if at the LCA mount. It was very tough and must put the shock in a pretty good bind. It seems this might produce problems with the upper bar pin. This probably wont be a problem while drooped or at ride height, but it seems like it would be a problem at full compression.

I'm just curious if anyone that has performed this mod has looked into this or had any problems. I will be working on my lower coil mounts tomorrow and possibly the shock mounts unless it looks too fubared.

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Unread 08-30-2011, 04:30 PM   #137
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Unread 08-30-2011, 04:49 PM   #138
lupinsea
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My shocks have a rigid metal stone guard on the top end (OME's). When I tried pulling the lower end over to the LCA on the rear axle things got particularly tight at the top of the shock between that and the frame / gas tank and skid.

I ended up doing a DIY version of AEV's shock shifters. It involved fabbing up an upper bracket to relocate the top of the shock in addition to doing all the work on the lower mounting point at the axle. It was a fun project but I work slow and it took a loooooong time.

One benefit is that by doing the upper bracket you can get a new alignment for the shock mounting hardware (bar pin) so that there is no binding on the upper or lower bushings when at ride height. It helps a little. Also, it puts the shock alignment much closer to a perpendicular orientation to the angle of the lower control arm so it's more efficient.

The way the TJ's axles move during suspension cycle is odd. I had never thought there would be as much movement as there was and in what directions.

First step on doing something like this is to remove the rear springs, disconnect the rear swaybar, and remove the foam bump stops from the cups (leave the cups). Then flex out the suspension:
  • Full droop for the whole axle
  • Full compression for the whole axle
  • Compress the left and droop the right
  • Compress the right and droop the left
  • Axle set at ride height

If you're doing a DIY you need to do the above and carefully observe how and where the axle is moving. Then make design decisions based on that. Here's a write-up I posted on JF that goes over what I did and shows a bit more what's happening up top:


DIY Shock Shifter Write-up




This is the top of the shock and you can see how the upper
end is moved forward and rotated ~90 deg.




My unscientic method of making brackets.... cut / drill the mounting
point, bolt them on, then keep adding steel until the bracket is built.

The geometry was too complicated here for me to do anything more elegant than this.




Here's the main plate being cut out after I experimented
with a cardboard template.




The new bracket tack welded together just enough so I could pull it off
the rig for final clean-up and welding without it shifting and moving.




The brackets after final welding.




And the upper brackets installed on the rig after
painting.... waiting for the shocks.




One issue with this method and the upper relocation bracket is that
it pushes the shocks down about an extra 1" or so. So they hang a
bit low than Mudb8's lower brackets. . . .




. . . . but they tuck off out of the way tight-ish to the tire. So far on the
trails I've not had an issue with whacking them on the rocks I've driven over.



Bottom line, is that I love the result from the upper and lower shock shifter mod. The rear of the Tj is MUCH more stable and doesn't have the wiggle it had with the stock shock arrangement when going over bumps and such. It feels great.

However, if anyone wants to do this, I highly recommend BUYING AEV's SHOCK SHFITER KIT! Jeez, but it would have saved MUCH time and hassle. It's worth it alone just for the upper brackets. Otherwise you're having to reverse design the thing and monkey about much more with the suspension to figure out the geometry.

Big thanks to Mudb8 on his development of the DIY shock shifter and this thread. It was a big inspiration.
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Unread 09-02-2011, 12:10 PM   #139
AFjeepMan
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I have the tnt customs outboard kit, and can't wait to get some 10" or 12" travel shocks in the rear! But I need to find a good dd shock because I'm sick of feeling like I'm driving a dump truck.
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WANTED: SYE and cv shaft...good condition and good price. for a TJ with about 5-6" of lift.
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Unread 09-02-2011, 12:44 PM   #140
Darrelm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFjeepMan View Post
I have the tnt customs outboard kit, and can't wait to get some 10" or 12" travel shocks in the rear! But I need to find a good dd shock because I'm sick of feeling like I'm driving a dump truck.
This is the shock I use with my T&T outboard works awesome and rides real nice. you can also get it in a 11" travel too 17"compressed 28" extended. Bilstein 5125

Bilstein F4-BE5-A465-H5
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Unread 09-26-2011, 12:09 AM   #141
AstroZombie
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Great thread. Thanks mudb8 for another great write-up!
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Unread 10-02-2011, 04:55 PM   #142
AFjeepMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrelm

This is the shock I use with my T&T outboard works awesome and rides real nice. you can also get it in a 11" travel too 17"compressed 28" extended. Bilstein 5125

Bilstein F4-BE5-A465-H5
Awesome dude, now I just gotta decide how I want to get longer travel shocks up front. Where is the best thread for the ford shock tower mod? Or another really well done extension? I don't have access to a computer so searching would be a pain in the arse! Thanks and mud, you and this thread have been a huge help to my build!
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WANTED: SYE and cv shaft...good condition and good price. for a TJ with about 5-6" of lift.
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Unread 11-30-2011, 10:49 PM   #143
TeeJayGuy
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I am curious on what length shock to run when outboarding the shocks top and bottom? The lift i have is a 3.5 RE lift....How do i determine what length shock to run with this lift having 50/50 ratio on up/down travel??? I dont want to bottom out or unseat the coils till they fall out
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Unread 11-30-2011, 11:05 PM   #144
ytowntj
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By outboarding do you mean outside the frame with f150 towers or similar or just doing the shock shifters.

If youre truly outboarding my suggestion would be to pick a shock travel length you want to shoot for and buy it. Get everything else on the suspension setup and use the height of the tower as your variable. With the jeep on its own weight and the lower mounts done with the towers bolted to the shock slide the tower to where it gives you the amount of up/down travel you want and tack it in place. Pull the tire back off and burn it on. Im sure there are other ways but thats the simplest route I can think.

Im running 10" travel on 2" so you should probably shoot for 11ish inches
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Unread 12-01-2011, 07:29 PM   #145
EricsGreen98Tj
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Go with 12" travel if your going to fully outboard the rear. Set them up with at least 5" up travel though...
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Unread 12-01-2011, 07:55 PM   #146
AFjeepMan
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I'm planning on exactly that...5" up and 7" down...12" travel shocks will be awesome once I can get them on...in the spring when it finally warms up again.
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(o)_) (o)_)--)_)

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Relearn your priorities.[/COLOR]

WANTED: SYE and cv shaft...good condition and good price. for a TJ with about 5-6" of lift.
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Unread 01-01-2012, 10:55 PM   #147
Damstr8
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I have pondered the shifter mod for awhile. As the lower mount pushed out towards the tires is a great idea and is what I am going to do. It is the upper mount that complexes me with bind issues. I am running a RE 3.5" lift, SYE. So I have these options:

1. I could leave it with the stock location with the bar pin.


2. Use the rear bar pin eliminators.


3. Use a front lower bar pin eliminators in place of the rear bar pin eliminator.


4. Make my own bar pin eliminators that use a stem mount and have a full 360* movement.


I feel that option 4 may sound crazy but it sounds like my kind of crazy, but what do you all think?
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Unread 03-09-2012, 10:30 AM   #148
rkymtn05
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Subbed! Great info Mud!
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Unread 04-04-2012, 06:11 AM   #149
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Unread 04-04-2012, 10:13 AM   #150
ytowntj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
What are you bumping for? Do you have a specific question?


Ill add that I did the shock shifter style setup for a while and recently fully outboarded with the same 5100s. There is no comparison in on road stability and offroad bump absorption.

If youre going to take the time, outboard. Honestly I had less time in making the upper towers, notching the frame, measuring, and burning them on than I did trying to setup the shock shifters so they wouldnt bind.
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