low lift, long shocks, and DIY shock shifters... what's the advantage? - Page 12 - JeepForum.com

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post #166 of 366 Old 06-07-2013, 10:58 AM
aparke4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargo View Post
Reviving an old thread here. What are you guys doing for the top bracket? Last summer I purchased the AEV shock shifter kit. When using their setup I actually lost an inch of uptravel. I like the setup but I'd like to gain some travel back. So I was thinking about going back to the stock location somehow. But using the stock location looks like its just going to bind too much. So I thought about using a bar pin eliminator or something that turned the shock 90*. Then it wouldn't bind at ride height, but I have concerns it might bind when the axle travels through its motions. So what are you guys using up on top?
I have the same question! I am about to do the DIY lower fix and am not sure my bushings can handle the outward angle of the new lower mount.

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post #167 of 366 Old 06-07-2013, 11:04 AM
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post #168 of 366 Old 06-07-2013, 11:22 AM
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oh crap- i have those and forgot the orient the shock 90*! my bad!!
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post #169 of 366 Old 06-07-2013, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sduncan View Post
I've thought about using something like that. With the 90* rotation they won't bind at ride height, but what about as the axle swings through its motions. I wonder what happens then. Although the AEV mounts turn the shock 90* as well. But they are in a different position so I assume AEV checked them all out and they are ok.

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post #170 of 366 Old 07-28-2013, 07:48 AM
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I know this is an old thread, but it is full of good tech IMHO, so I just added on to make it longer


I loved muds idea so checked my own rear shocks to find this...

I have about 1/2 of droop available from my supple factory shocks at ride hieght !!!!
This is a stock 99 with a 1.75 spacer lift.

This is the view at full droop, with the track and swaybars still attached.


When I go out to attack my farm style rti ramp, I can raise the rear tire a foot off the ground in 2wd, now I know why.

Last edited by BigAl4102; 07-28-2013 at 08:05 AM.
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post #171 of 366 Old 07-28-2013, 08:25 AM
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I am still not sure what shocks I want to run, I was leaning towards spending the money on Fox because I want a good ride across rough fields and muddy rutted out trails. (no rocks bigger than my RTI ramp around here).

I have got a set of 2.5" ome springs coming out of the classifieds here (thanks anderson).

I went ahead and ordered 2" lift shocks from my local napa, only 22" long, but they are cheap so I will probably check out the geometry with them, and get longer better quality later. Any advice on what to run?

One piece of 3" box tube cut in half on a 45* with a 5" long side to match the lca mout.


Spread it's wings just a little and welded it to the LCA mount. Don't look to close at the weld, 1109 rod on 75 amps upside down, its a constant ballet of burning through and slag dripping into the puddle. I guess I need one of those little migs for this kind of work. Any advice on one of those? I can buy the lincoln 180 for $750 or so at Rural king in town, but I know nothing about those little welders.



So I let the axle hang, extended the shock, and drilled a hole...looks just like Mud would do it?



well guess what... when I stuff the axle !



So a little bit of reengineering.....


and she does not hit the frame.


One thing I noticed, these shocks are at such a digressive angle at stufff, they don't get very close to bottoming at all, I only have about 4.5" of up travel right now withh the way my bumps are setup , but the shock was fine with that. I am still hoping to fit a longer shock , but I need to get my springs in, and see if I need a longer trackbar I guess, to know what kind of travel I will have available.
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post #172 of 366 Old 07-28-2013, 08:50 AM
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look at the mad flex I can get now on the RTI ramp.


The ride is better, the g-out on the washed out farm road doesn't try to throw you out when the back end hits now, but the shocks aren't topping out with a 1/2" of extension either
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post #173 of 366 Old 07-28-2013, 09:36 AM
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Thank you so much.....I've been waiting to try something similar when I take mine out of service for the lift upgrade.
Scared to try anything though. Great job.

So, you would move the mount a little further inboard for that size shock? (I know you just drilled the hole inboard, but if you had to start all over again?)
Also, what is the diameter of your shock body? looks pretty big.

Is your rear axle centered? I'm guessing your pinion is not rotated (stock arms etc...).
Any problems with the clearance between the lower mount and the shock? How did you mount the shock at the bottom?

cheers
great job
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post #174 of 366 Old 07-28-2013, 11:34 AM
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Those shocks are pretty fat but I don't have a measurement.

I had bilstiens on my YJ and I believe they are a little thinner.

Yes a little more inboard would be better, but I think you lose some of the advantage of the relocation, the further inboard you go.

I don't know if the rear axle is centered or not, I am waiting to put the lift springs in, I have an adjustable trackbar to put in then also.

I am running stock control arms,if I get adjustables and rotate the pinion up, I will have to pay attention to the shock rubbing the coil bucket.

Right now the shocks are just bolted to the bracket with a 1/2" bolt, but I have shock studs on order, 1979 C10 front upper, napa # p19

Those studs will move the shock out away from the axle 1/2" or so, and should fix any issues with coil interference.
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post #175 of 366 Old 07-28-2013, 01:02 PM
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Thanks. Please post any advice you have as you go.

cheers.
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post #176 of 366 Old 07-29-2013, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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post #177 of 366 Old 07-29-2013, 06:58 AM
taterhed
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Give me a minute....I'm recovering from that paint job. Wow.
Much to be learned from the pics.

You favor a stud vs double shear on the relo brackets, right?
Does anyone make/sell the Nth/AEV upper shifter brackets anymore?
I just looked at the old Nth upper/lower shifter kit. Looks like a nice setup. I'm too chicken/poor to do Ford towers.

Wish I lived in Oregon (or So. Wash St!)
I'm guessing that all the clearance you gain by tube-down shocks you loose on the spring perch? (with CV/rotated pinion?)

Thanks for the pics.
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post #178 of 366 Old 07-29-2013, 11:09 AM
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those are some good looking examples mud.

I am not getting near tha much droop on my jeep, is it because of the trackbar?

I am still using the stock control arms, but I didn't think they would limit droop.
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post #179 of 366 Old 07-30-2013, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
mudb8
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Control arm bushings bind up the suspension. if you simply loosen your control arm and trackbar bolts,you will get a good idea of what the gain is from flex joints.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator @ jeepwest.com
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post #180 of 366 Old 08-20-2013, 07:00 AM
C54
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Bringing a good thread back here. I have my brackets ready to be burned on. I just have one question be for doing so. I do not have a sye yet. If I put my brackets on now. Will the shock bind up once I roll my pinion for the sye?
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