Looking to put 35's on 04 Rubicon?????

jmiller · 03-06-2006, 07:49 AM

I am looking to put 35's on my rig. 2004 Rubicon, I am just wonder what I will need to accomplish this. I have a guy who is going to do the lift and everything but what he is telling me and what I have been reading in this forum are totally different. So I am trying to get a check list of everything I need to put 35's on my rig, Like will I need to re-gear? Will I need to upgrade my brakes, Steering, What about my drive-shaft? What would be the best most cost effective lift kit? I would mostly be doing mudding rather then rock crawling. Also how much cheaper is it to put 33 on your rig then 35's, price wise?I really appreciate any input, Thanks again.

**Rocky529** · 03-06-2006, 07:52 AM

It's a lot to cheaper to go with 33s. You can get away with a short arm lift. With 35s, you pretty much have to go with long arms.. and those lifts are considerably much more expensive. Once you get on 35s, you have to re-gear your axles (you're at 4.11 now... 4.88 would be ideal), you have front and rear disc brakes already but you should upgrade your steering.

camperguy · 03-06-2006, 07:53 AM

Theres a few ways of doing it but its not cheap to do it right.

www.******************.com

Cheap=3" body and 2" suspension with coil spacers

Bill

Black Hills TJ · 03-06-2006, 07:55 AM

If you are dead set on 35's then I'd go with a Clayton or RE Long Arm Kit. I've heard great things about clayton and i own an RE 3.5 kit myself. Like Rocky said, definately upgrade the steering and regear.

Looking at 2500(i think) for a LA kit and 1000 to regear!

However, I would consider an RE 3.5 SuperFlex kit and 33's. Much cheaper and I think you'll be happy with the outcome for a lot less cash.

1000 bucks will do the trick.

ALSO-when you get up on 35's you tend to break A LOT of things VERY OFTEN.

camperguy · 03-06-2006, 08:18 AM

Dont forget a CV rear shaft and if your hard on your Jeep at least a set of Alloy/Superior front axles.Most guys who run mud/dirt trails arent having that much trouble with the Ruby front outers but if you run locked in front and have a high traction situation or the wheel cranked you could snap an outer.5speeds like 4:88`s and the autos like 5:13`s your going to need a good alignment shop as well.If your keeping the stock Moabs your going to need wheelspacers,Spidertrax makes good ones.HD steering stabilizer minimum.Transcooler not a bad idea if you have an auto.Brakes suck on these things.Upgraded rotors and pads help as long as stainless brakelines.Your probably going to want a little more power for the 4.0l after its pushing more wind and 35`s so figure in a cat back and maybe a CAI if your not into deep water crossings...it goes on and on

Bill

HIPPER · 03-06-2006, 08:22 AM

I run 35's on my stock Rubi drivetrain. Yes, I would like to regear sometime in the future, but it is not something that you HAVE to do now. I clear the 35's with a Rock Krawler 5.5" LA kit. I don't think I would run 35's without a LA kit. The only other thing I changed was the rear drive shaft (a must if you go with a lift large enough to clear 35's).

Clayton and RE make some nice stuff, I would go Clayton over RE (personal opinion). You might want to look at the Rock Krawler kit as they are complete kits, built tough, and cheaper than most.

Feel free to contact me, I would be more than happy to talk to you about your setup and help get you into the kit that is right for you.

Thanks
Brandon
216.244.4877
www.hippshobbies.com

camperguy · 03-06-2006, 08:36 AM

I have the GenII dammit

I`m very happy with my RK as well.

Bill

cmoore · 03-06-2006, 09:31 AM

Long arms roll over.

You can build a very capable rig with short arms.
I have never said nor have I ever heard someone say "jeez I would have made it if it werent for those short control arms". Besides that LAs cost more and LAs will lower your resale to anyone but a forum member.

Dont bother with 33s you'll just want 35s a month later. You can run 35s on stock rubi gear just fine--especially if you're mudding. Upgrade stuff when/if it breaks.

fisher836 · 03-06-2006, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmoore

I have never said nor have I ever heard someone say "jeez I would have made it if it werent for those short control arms".

That's classic! I ran 4" springs with 2" coil spacers on short arms and 35" tires on my sahara. The ride was so so. I'm putting those 4" springs on my new rubicon with 33's and the biggest thing I am running into is driveshaft issues. It all depends on what sort of wheeling you plan on doing. If very little, 4" suspension 1" body will fit 35s. I thought the 6" on short arms made me a little top heavy on unstable ground. It just didn't have good offroad stability. On road, it was stiff and actually pretty stable because everything is so tight. The reason I am going with 4" lift on the Rubicon is because I want better offroad flex along with a better ride on road (this is all short arm) I'm not comparing this to a long arm kit because A. I've never had one and B. I hear they are the best all around (I just can't afford a good one!)

NH Rudi · 03-06-2006, 11:07 AM

Take the advice of going to 35s now verses later. Been there did the 33s and a RE3.5 lift. I now have a long arm kit and 35s doing things twice is not fun.

As fisher 836 pointed out a 1-inch body lift with a 4-inch long arm is a nice combination. With the 1-inch body lift you do a belly up kit which is real nice and only complements your lift. Dropping your t-case after doing a long arm lift is counter productive IMO.

Roy

**97TJGUZZY** · 03-06-2006, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NH Rudi

Take the advice of going to 35s now verses later. Been there did the 33s and a RE3.5 lift. I now have a long arm kit and 35s doing things twice is not fun.

As fisher 836 pointed out a 1-inch body lift with a 4-inch long arm is a nice combination. With the 1-inch body lift you do a belly up kit which is real nice and only complements your lift. Dropping your t-case after doing a long arm lift is counter productive IMO.

Roy

you make it sound like you cant put a belly up on a short arm tj...which you can.

It really depends on how much money he wants to throw at it...33s will be cheaper...by how much you cant really say because it depends on what you want out of your jeep. you can run 33s on your rubi with a 3" suspension and 1" body lift and it will be a very reliable rig...when you start getting into the 35s fornt ujoints, balljoints, wheelbearings, steering, brakes...all need to be upgraded.

my $.02 run 33s for a while on a 3" lift and wheel the piss out of it...break some stuff then you will realize what you need....or hell...heaven for bid ya wheel a stock rubicon for a while

get a winch and skids and have fun