Long arm questions... Anybody recognize this "kit" - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-24-2011, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
kpalm7
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Long arm questions... Anybody recognize this "kit"

Hello everyone,

I've finally got my life-long dream, a TJ. It's a '97 4.0 manual that sat for ten years, and now the tires are worrying me due to their age. I really don't want to do 31's again, so time for a lift.

I picked up a set of long arms and coils from a friend. He told me it was for four inches and built for a TJ, but he had never installed it himself and didn't know much else about it. Because I can't figure out exactly who made the long-arms, I can't go to any standard directions for installation.

So I have some questions...

1. What else do I need?
I'm planning on 33's with stock axles/gears and using it as a DD. I'm thinking I'll probably need front and rear extended trackbars, new shocks, new brakelines, front and rear sway bar disconnects/links, and a drop pitman arm. I'm really hoping to get away without a SYE until I get new axles so I don't have to go through two custom driveshafts to save money. Not sure when axles will be an option, so I plan to see how it feels with the lift before making a decision on the SYE.
Should I stay away from Rough Country on these parts? I've heard some bad things about Rough Country, but their prices sure are right. Any personal experiences?

2. Will these arms work?
I think I can figure out the mounting distances myself. It's all related to the axle's location, height, and pinion angles, and I understand the concepts behind figuring the proper distances. Before I can continue with finding these angles, I need a little more understanding of if/how these types of control arm ends connect to the axle and frame.

3. The current control arms seem to have rubber bushings, are these things that I will need? Can I re-use any of the current hardware, or will I need replacements? I really don't know much about these end joints, can anybody direct me to a basic guide on the different types and their methods of mounting?

4. Which arm goes where?
All measurements are approximately eye to eye. The only arms I really know where they are designed to be are the front uppers, which I believe are the shortest.

5. Any recommendations on which bracket is front or back?
Also, do you think I need more, or is it possible that the new upper control arm mounts to the stock lower control arm location?

I thank you very much for any help.












Thanks again for any help!!!

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post #2 of 13 Old 08-24-2011, 07:09 PM
Commando81
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
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To find where to the frame the go mount one side to the axle and it will tell you where it goes.

Brand no idea myself.

The 4 to the left in the second to last pic will be your lowers. The others I'm not sure on since you should only need 2 with the "fork" on one end for the fronts.
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post #3 of 13 Old 08-24-2011, 07:10 PM
EricsGreen98Tj
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Its a Rock Krawler brand kit. you can tell by the joints on the arms.

Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-24-2011, 07:11 PM
undercoverfab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpalm7 View Post
Hello everyone,

I've finally got my life-long dream, a TJ. It's a '97 4.0 manual that sat for ten years, and now the tires are worrying me due to their age. I really don't want to do 31's again, so time for a lift.

I picked up a set of long arms and coils from a friend. He told me it was for four inches and built for a TJ, but he had never installed it himself and didn't know much else about it. Because I can't figure out exactly who made the long-arms, I can't go to any standard directions for installation.

So I have some questions...

1. What else do I need?
I'm planning on 33's with stock axles/gears and using it as a DD. I'm thinking I'll probably need front and rear extended trackbars, new shocks, new brakelines, front and rear sway bar disconnects/links, and a drop pitman arm. I'm really hoping to get away without a SYE until I get new axles so I don't have to go through two custom driveshafts to save money. Not sure when axles will be an option, so I plan to see how it feels with the lift before making a decision on the SYE.
Should I stay away from Rough Country on these parts? I've heard some bad things about Rough Country, but their prices sure are right. Any personal experiences?

2. Will these arms work?
I think I can figure out the mounting distances myself. It's all related to the axle's location, height, and pinion angles, and I understand the concepts behind figuring the proper distances. Before I can continue with finding these angles, I need a little more understanding of if/how these types of control arm ends connect to the axle and frame.

3. The current control arms seem to have rubber bushings, are these things that I will need? Can I re-use any of the current hardware, or will I need replacements? I really don't know much about these end joints, can anybody direct me to a basic guide on the different types and their methods of mounting?

4. Which arm goes where?
All measurements are approximately eye to eye. The only arms I really know where they are designed to be are the front uppers, which I believe are the shortest.

5. Any recommendations on which bracket is front or back?
Also, do you think I need more, or is it possible that the new upper control arm mounts to the stock lower control arm location?

I thank you very much for any help.












Thanks again for any help!!!

Looks like Rock Krawler joints in the arms.

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(334) 446-3821

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post #5 of 13 Old 08-24-2011, 08:56 PM
EricsGreen98Tj
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
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I beat you by 1 min Matt

Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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post #6 of 13 Old 08-24-2011, 08:59 PM
undercoverfab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
I beat you by 1 min Matt
Maybe... You may have beat me by 1 second!

Matt Walton
http://undercoverfab.com
sales@undercoverfab.com
(334) 446-3821

We are currently offering free ground shipping to the lower 48!

Check us out on Facebook

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post #7 of 13 Old 08-24-2011, 09:04 PM
jeepn4life92
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Metuchen
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if youre avoiding the sye, i suggest some sort of dop bracketry for the transfercase skid, it seems silly to move it closer to the ground, but rock crawling this past week in rausch creek, i only got caught up once on the transfer case skid, and its broad and flat and plenty strong so it slid right off it without any damage, my axles got caught up much more often, and as for figuring out other parts you may need, just check out a good long arm kit on quadratec and see what parts it comes with, figure out what you have and see what parts youre missing, all kits will be slightly different but it should get you in the general ballpark of what you need, its how i got my lift kit together buying different parts for much cheaper than a whole kit at once.
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post #8 of 13 Old 08-25-2011, 09:48 PM
blue02tj
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
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For 33" you will only need springs that provide 3 - 4 inches of lift.
Just a few reminders:
Dont forget your bump stops
YJ brake lines work and can be found at most autopart stores. http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspensio...e/brakes-1.htm

You will need an adjustable track bar in the front and at least a relocation bracket for the back.
If at all possible do the SYE and avoid the T case drop.
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-26-2011, 07:14 AM
geiman
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You don't need rear swaybar disconnects.

As for Rough Country, their prices are much cheaper than many others out there; what does that tell you about the product? Will it work and get the job done? Yes. Will it be the quality that you want and come with everything you'll need? Who knows. Read a bit on here about their stuff and you can make your own mind up. Many are very happy with them since it fits their wallet, while others end up upgrading down the road. It's all a matter of what you'll be happy with.
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post #10 of 13 Old 09-03-2011, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
kpalm7
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Posts: 159
Thank you everybody for your help. I'm trying to get a hold of Rock Krawler now to see if they have any info on the mounting locations for my frame side CA brackets. I know that some use these same arms for a triangulated 4-link, but since I'm keeping my stock d35 rear for now I don't see the point in doing all of the extra truss work, especially since I just got a RE extended rear sway bar and bracket for $60.

I don't see a transfer case drop making any sense to me. If I'm going to spend the money and time to correct the driveline angles, I'd rather do it the correct way with a SYE. I guess I'll wait and see how it does with the 4" coils. If I do get vibrations, I will go the SYE route.

For the control arm end links, it looks like I'm going to need misalignment pins to connect to my brackets. Is this correct for these types of joints? I've also noticed that some people use high-misalignment pins, how do I know if I need the high misalignment, or should I just get them from the start?



blue-

Thanks for the info on the YJ brakelines, those should work perfect. Do I need to worry about the rear lines as well? Also, thank you for mentioning bump-stops. It looks like I'll order two inch lower extensions for the front, and 2 inch upper extensions for the rear.



Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post
You don't need rear swaybar disconnects.

As for Rough Country, their prices are much cheaper than many others out there; what does that tell you about the product? Will it work and get the job done? Yes. Will it be the quality that you want and come with everything you'll need? Who knows. Read a bit on here about their stuff and you can make your own mind up. Many are very happy with them since it fits their wallet, while others end up upgrading down the road. It's all a matter of what you'll be happy with.

Yeah, I think I'm going to stay away from RC parts. I want my rig to be reliable, so quality parts are worth the extra $. I know that disconnects aren't required in the back, but won't I need replacement links to reach the extra 4", or does the sway bar just rotate a little to compensate for the height?

Thanks again for all of your help
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post #11 of 13 Old 09-03-2011, 03:34 PM
geiman
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You'll definitely want extended links. If you keep the stock style rear sway bar, I would think most any brand of extended sway bar links would work just fine.
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post #12 of 13 Old 09-03-2011, 05:00 PM
mrblaine
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Make the correct length new front uppers if you decide to run that kit.

I am Savvy
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post #13 of 13 Old 09-06-2011, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
kpalm7
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Posts: 159
It looks like I won't be running that kit at all. RockKrawler's customer service was great, and explained to me what I have. Apparently, it's most of the parts from one of their old WJ grand cherokee long-arm kits, and I've been duped by some guy off craigslist. Hopefully the springs I bought from him are true TJ coils so I'm not out the full $400.

Anyways, now I'm looking at my options. One would be to make my own control arms, but since I don't have my own welder, the costs would be pretty expensive. A brand new long-arm set is out of the picture due to costs.

So this looks to be my new plan.



From what I can tell I'll use 22.5* inside-frame mounts for the rear y-link, and straight under-frame mounts for the front radius arm and rear control arms. Unfortunately Rubicon Express no longer makes this 3-link rear... Have to wonder why... But, it is possible that they still have some information for me regarding mounting locations.

What is the best way to find the mounting location for the brackets? Should I try to do the math and figure out my horizontal distance from axle, or should I disconnect the axles entirely and lower them 4", then connect the arms and see where they line up with the frame?
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