LJ Build "Bad to the Bone" another stretch on tons, COs, Hemi Swap-- EVENTUALLY
Basic premise- this is my first "grown up build" that I'm actually doing ALL THE work, and by "the work" I mean more than just bolting crapp on. Here we go.
Here's what we're starting with- plenty of "work" done so far but nothing to terribly technical:
Here's the run-down of where we're starting:
- 2006 LJ
- 6 speed
- Clayton 4" Longarm lift
- 4 link rear
- AEV Highline kit (yeah- I know- caught in a hail storm driving to Ole' Miss for a game and that's the best thing insurance would pay for- for some reason they wouldn't do the tubes- I don't understand it either)
- Fab Fours rockers (they're local NC boys so I like em)- I custom made the side steps though welded on 2" square tube with grating welded on top then encased in Line-X
- Took an old CJ tailgate and made a fold down so I had somewhere to sit the cooler at the game in Jacksonville every OCT/NOV (GO DAWGS!) Line-X the whole rear section after the body seam. Custom made hinges and supports.
- Side exhaust (eh- why not on the LJ- there's room)
- Whole tub is Line-Xed inside, and all the Tuffy crapp in there so people quit stealing my stuff
- RE Monotubes, Clayton shocks, and an Anti-rock in the front
- I had gone to JK 44's built to a TJ setup but that all got sold to pay to go to tons so now I'm temporarily running the 30 up front (SO SCARY!)
Here's what's done so far-
-Took a rear 70 from an E-350 with the 64" WMS to disc with Gravelmaker's kit, JB7 Chevy Calipers, Brembo 3/4 ton Chevy front rotors, and whatnot.
- Set up new 4:88 gears and an ARB
- Cut a Dana 60 Front (89 F-350 Drivers drop). Went with this axle because I wanted the 64" WMS and didn't want to be in the oil pan- going to COs in the front and Coils with bump stops in the rear so I can still tow a little bit (hopefully)
- Set up new 4:88 gears and an ARB
Went the Stage 8 locking nuts route- trying to do it right the first time. NOTE: the 70 I have has a keyway that is only 4.5mm across on the spindle. The key for the Stage 8 locking nut is 7mm so I had to machine it down- tougher to do that I thought- that's tough steel.
So- the goal for the next week or so is to get the rear in and done- I believe I will be going to the ACOS pros in the rear with 4" lift Clayton Coils- I've new Bilsteins (5.5" lift versions) for shocks- rears will be permanent (or that's the plan) fronts will be going to COs later this year- when the budget (and the wife) allows. Going to bed for now- more updates to come tomorrow. Here's how she sits for now:
Here's some of the components that are going under the girl:
Bilstein Shocks for 5.5" Lift
Ballistic Fab Truss, Combo Bracket, 2 5/8" Upper Arm mounts, and Diff Cover (which btw Ballistic's 60 Dif DOES NOT fit the 70- Ballistic cut it too close to the ring gear diameter of the smaller ring of the 60 and it hits on the 70 - I asked and they said it would- but it doesn't. Looks like I'm going to have to make something here- oh well- I guess it's good for me ) and some Redline Fluids
Reid Chevy style knuckles- going Chevy from the knuckles out
JB7 Calipers (as of now I'm using a hose clamp to retain the outer pad... any better ideas?)
Brake kit for the JB7 Calipers from Blackbird Customs
Dynatrac "Stub Hub Kit" on the front 60
RCV Performance CV Shafts
Ballistic Front Truss System
PSC Motorsports Dbl. Ended Ram System w/TC Pump
In the crate btw... is a 2006 5.7L Magnum Hemi out of my Powerwagon that was totalled last winter- It's mated to a G-56 Manual Only 10k on the pair- That's stage 4 of this build-
Rear 70 in First
Front 60 in Next
Stretch Wheelbases to 110" and replace this darn AEV kit with something I can bang into a rock and not demolish (e.g. Tub fenders, corner panels, tube flares)
Hemi Swap and Atlas 2
It's going to be interesting to see how many sets of driveshafts I'm going to have to buy with all the relocations but... budgets are budgets.
I suppose I should note that while I am doing all the work on the vehicle- I did have some help with the axle cutdown and the R & P Setup, kingpin rebuild and whatnot- thanks J.J.
Aren't you worried about a side exhaust getting ripped up/smashed in the rocks?
It's completely conceiled- that's actually why I like it- It fits under the belly skid and comes out immediately making a hard turn to the pass side. Pipe comes out between the mount for the contol arm on to the frame and the belly pan- about the most protected place it could possibly be- but remember- it's an LJ- there isn't room there on a TJ for this configuration.
Didn't get too much done last night cause I had Bible study at 8 so- in two hours I got the drive shaft out, the ebrake system fully removed, went ahead and greased all the joints before I forget about them and start bolting things back in, removed the skid pate (holy rusted bolts batman) and pulled the shocks. Here's a couple update pics.
Now- one question. Turns out that my 4:88 gears and ARB combo in the rear 70 means it won't work with the Ballistic fab Dana 60 diff cover, as I mentioned earlier. I'm trying to figure out how I want to remedy this- Here is what seems to be my options:
go with a differnt diff cover
use the stock diff cover and deal with it until I do the front- which is really when I'm going to wheel it anyhow as it ain't gonna see any dirt until the front axle is upgraded as well
use a spacer off the diff to make it fit the ring gear
I believe I am leaning towards the later- but I wouldn't mind some opinions to this effect. If I go the spacer route I could:
A.) Weld the spacer to the current diff and flange (bevel the inner and outer edge and whatnot to get a good seal and pre-heat the crapp out of it in the over to keep warping from being an issue)
B.) Weld the "spacer" to the diff and then use gasketmaker to form a ridiculous seal between the two "flanges"
C.) cut the flange off the diff "dome" and just CNC a new "flange" piece out of 3/4" plate re-weld that to the dome- etc.
Eh... just thinking out loud (or in type as the case may be) but it's a thought.
And here is a pic of the side exhaust-as you can see- pretty protected\
Advance Adapters SYE delivery- was a little displeased with the lack of finishing machining on the actual flange but assuming it all seals up ok I'm good with it- They threw a 1350 Yoke in there for good measure so that goes a fair ways in my book.
"Parts Mike" T-case E Brake Kit via Tom Woods (they had it on sale, the shelf and gave free shipping so who was I to argue) FYI- All parts on this build were either purchased through Jason at 4x4groupbuy.com (funny name- GREAT prices) or Andrew w/ Letzrolloffroad.com (funny guy- GREAT prices [sorry Andrew- I had to]).
Yup- Ok I figured out this AM what the deal is with the brakes- wrong rotors again- Hat depth is off by a fair bit. This is one of those situations where instructions would have come in handy, or a pic or something of an SRW 70 Disc swap. Aight- well back to the store for another set of rotors. I'm going to tell myself that I really needed to pull these anyhow as I really needed to change the wheel studs from 303's to 283's because I'm almost certain the 303's are going to be too long unless I run some 3/8" spacers. Here's a few pic of the rotor spacing off the bracket and where the spacing is going to need to be in order to work. Hey, I am doing a great job of getting the stupid mistakes out of the way now before I'm working on things that I can't be so frivolous with
Got the 231 out last night and am going to try (doubt it's gonna happen though) to get the SYE in this weekend and maybe even figure out how I want to configure the pinion brake, as there are a few options. Little sister is getting married though, I have church, and I have golf with the family pre-wedding (family tradition) so there is an excellent chance that nothing happens- I'm in Chicago Sunday-Mon, Green Bay Tues- Wed and Milwaukee Thurs-Fri next week so there is honestly a pretty good chance nothing happens for a week but hey, if you're actually interested in this build check in- who knows?