Lifting a 2000 TJ Wrangler - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
shadygator
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Lifting a 2000 TJ Wrangler

How much lift does a TJ Wrangler have to have to run 35 inch tires?

Also do you have to put a longer drive shaft in?

Will stock gearing pull 35's..?

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post #2 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 07:12 PM
ivester1992
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Metal cloak boasts 35s on stock height

4.88s, 35 bfg a/t, 4.5 inch rubicon express springs, rear 4 link, single radius front, 6 inch rc 2.0 shocks, rc quick discos, eautogrilles rockers and corners.
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 07:19 PM
drivengsxr1000
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do you want to build it cheap or build it to last and function

i know a guy with a rough country n2.0 4" lift for $500 and threw on some 35's and they clear just fine... factory drive shaft works with this lift, stock gears work fine as well but hes also got a 5 speed, i think stock gears will work fine on the road if you have a auto or manual trans
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post #4 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 07:23 PM
ivester1992
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I'm clearing 35s with a combo lift of 5 inches

forumrunner_20130121_212305.jpg

4.88s, 35 bfg a/t, 4.5 inch rubicon express springs, rear 4 link, single radius front, 6 inch rc 2.0 shocks, rc quick discos, eautogrilles rockers and corners.
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post #5 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 07:23 PM
ctorres018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivengsxr1000 View Post
do you want to build it cheap or build it to last and function

i know a guy with a rough country n2.0 4" lift for $500 and threw on some 35's and they clear just fine... factory drive shaft works with this lift, stock gears work fine as well but hes also got a 5 speed, i think stock gears will work fine on the road if you have a auto or manual trans
You really should not be posting if that's your advice.....
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post #6 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 07:26 PM
drivengsxr1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctorres018 View Post
You really should not be posting if that's your advice.....
i gave no advice in this post at all... he asked a question and i answered it...
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post #7 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 08:12 PM
ctorres018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivengsxr1000 View Post
factory drive shaft works with this lift, stock gears work fine as well but hes also got a 5 speed, i think stock gears will work fine on the road if you have a auto or manual trans
If that's not you giving your advice then idk wtf it is
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post #8 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 08:16 PM
ivester1992
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35s with stock gears will be miserable

4.88s, 35 bfg a/t, 4.5 inch rubicon express springs, rear 4 link, single radius front, 6 inch rc 2.0 shocks, rc quick discos, eautogrilles rockers and corners.
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 08:28 PM
drivengsxr1000
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that is what a tj wrangler "has to have" to run 35's... not what is recommended, this is also directly related to the OP's question unlike what you are contributing to the post right now...

if he asked what is recommended than the answer would be different. Also hence my first comment:
Originally Posted by drivengsxr1000 View Post
do you want to build it cheap or build it to last and function

ivester1992...
I can not comment as i dont know how his truck feels but i can say with a 5 speed he can drive on the interstate here in Florida at the 70mph speed limit. I agree its probably miserable though.
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post #10 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 08:29 PM
ivester1992
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He is correct do you want low center of gravity?

4.88s, 35 bfg a/t, 4.5 inch rubicon express springs, rear 4 link, single radius front, 6 inch rc 2.0 shocks, rc quick discos, eautogrilles rockers and corners.
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post #11 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 08:44 PM
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Most people will claim 5-6" of total lift without trimming. You can do it on less if you are not adverse to trimming or running large bump stops.

I set up a TJ on 35" coopers on 3.25" lift + 1.25 BL by cutting off the top of front fenders, removing the inner fender, beveling in the back side and then trimming up the inside of the rear. Its on just enough bump stops to to not kill the shocks. Its tight but doesn't rub. i had to run the front axle out a bit be that's mostly from the scrub radius on the rims.

As far as gears goes - let me tell you this 33s on stock gears was TERRIBLE and given the momentum requirements to get over the lack of gearing I ended up breaking a shaft within a week (although it was locked on stock d35 shafts)
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post #12 of 16 Old 01-21-2013, 08:47 PM
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About 5" of lift (minimum) without any body mods or different fenders.

You can use the stock driveshaft, but its not really ideal. With the stock driveshaft, you'll have to run a transfer case drop once you get to 3-4" of suspension lift.

Stock gearing with 35s is miserable. It can work to get you by, but its not something most people can tolerate for long.
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post #13 of 16 Old 01-24-2013, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Im looking to run 35's, off-road some, but mainly a daily driver & I would also drive this on long road trips if needed. I do ride on the beaches of NC. I want it to look real good also, so no jacked-uped junk. I have a 5 speed trans also, if this helps.

I want it to function great...

So about the drive shaft, does it need to be shortened, or extended? Because a friend runs a fab shop & he could do this for me. He had to do this to his drag car...

What are a good ratio of gears? Are all brands of lift about the same?
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post #14 of 16 Old 01-24-2013, 08:14 PM
ivester1992
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Your gonna need 4.88s or 4.56 the drive shaft is garbage you will need a double cardan rear drive shaft with a sye.

4.88s, 35 bfg a/t, 4.5 inch rubicon express springs, rear 4 link, single radius front, 6 inch rc 2.0 shocks, rc quick discos, eautogrilles rockers and corners.
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post #15 of 16 Old 01-24-2013, 08:46 PM
TJ_Virgin
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I have 35's with 4.56 gears and 5 spd. Works great. 6" lift and a Slip Yolk Eliminator. You will need a shorter drive shaft with a cv joint to accomplish a proper drive line. If you don't get what I'm saying, I can post a pic. Let us know and good luck.
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35's , gearing , lift advice

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