To lift or not to lift - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
DANSBIRD
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To lift or not to lift

The Jeep has been bottoming out, on the back, when going over decent humps/bumps at decent speed. It's easily avoidable, but I have to pay attention to what I'm coming up on. I just got done replacing all kinds of stuff underneath it. One thing I didn't replace was the springs. I put new shocks on it, however. Looked up Ole Man Emu to find some heavy duty 2" springs, but couldn't find a set for the front. I figured I'd go w/ 2" springs b/c I am currently running 2" spacer pucks and a 1" body lift. OME informed me that my issue w/ it bottoming out wasn't only the worn out springs, but that the shocks are too long. The shocks are for 3-4" lifts and though the 2" pucks are on the springs, the springs will sag and it won't be a true 2". Also, they're saying the 1" body lift can't be taken into consideration b/c it's not part of the suspension (though, I figured since the shock attaches to the underneath side of the body, this should make it a valid variable). They also said b/c of this, simply getting 2" heavy duty springs for the back may not fix the issue completely that, of course, they recommended a full-suspension lift kit for a whopping $1k.

So, I'm exploring my options. Get some springs and hope it works... or go w/ a suspension lift and be done with it. My hesitation about going w/ a suspension lift is that I just replaced the sway bar links, shocks, and tie rod end. I've been told that everything should be able to transfer over, but then I don't know what that means in terms of a complete kit. I've heard death wobble, etc comes from people not doing a lift kit correctly and I don't want to piece it together at the expense of the ride.

My buddy sent me this:

http://www.autoanything.com/suspensi...ress-lift-kits

The Standard Coil Spring lift kit - $599 w/ an additional 20% off.

It's a 3.5" kit.



Thoughts?

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post #2 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 10:02 AM
Ironhead
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IMO, RE should never be considered as it is way over priced and not as good as some options in the $500 range.

sounds like OME hit the nail on the head and your shocks are too long causing them to bottom out when compressed. it sounds like the bumpstops were not properly extended either.

the top mount for the shocks is on the frame, so a body lift will not have anything to do with shock length.

death wobble is a result of worn or loose suspension and steering components. most of the guys on here dont see too many kits as being "complete" and instead purchase quality parts from a variety of manufactures.

im running BDS, Under cover fabs, Savvy, Currie, Fox, OME, Metal Cloak, and probably a few other manufacturers parts
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post #3 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
DANSBIRD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
IMO, RE should never be considered as it is way over priced and not as good as some options in the $500 range.

sounds like OME hit the nail on the head and your shocks are too long causing them to bottom out when compressed. it sounds like the bumpstops were not properly extended either.

the top mount for the shocks is on the frame, so a body lift will not have anything to do with shock length.

death wobble is a result of worn or loose suspension and steering components. most of the guys on here dont see too many kits as being "complete" and instead purchase quality parts from a variety of manufactures.

im running BDS, Under cover fabs, Savvy, Currie, Fox, OME, Metal Cloak, and probably a few other manufacturers parts
Thanks for the feedback and explanation.

And no, they weren't. I wasn't aware I needed to extend the bumpstops.
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post #4 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 10:51 AM
Ironhead
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i would find out the max extended and collapsed lengths of your shocks if you'd like to keep them. then match an appropriate set of springs.

bumpstops are there to protect your shocks, tires, and steering/suspension components. whenever one of those objects is changed, you should cycle your axles with springs removed in order to verify that your bumpstop cup, not the jounce bumper, makes contact and stops travel before anything else does
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post #5 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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post #6 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:45 PM
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I'd get some 3" BDS or Zone springs for your "too long" shocks and be done with it.

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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
The little magic fairies I grind up and use for the BMB pads have to be toasted first and that turns them a very dark brown color which produces a near black dust when you brake so it shows up easier.
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post #7 of 18 Old 02-03-2016, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Looking at this TeraFlex kit...

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16190_005_07.htm


I'm curious why there's only one set of sway bar links. Do I reuse a set? Quadratec says the ones included w/ this kit are for the fronts, but when I look at this kit:

http://newere4x4.com/product/terafle...k-disconnects/

it includes the fronts b/c they're the quick disconnects.
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post #8 of 18 Old 02-03-2016, 02:33 PM
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You need front and rear.

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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
The little magic fairies I grind up and use for the BMB pads have to be toasted first and that turns them a very dark brown color which produces a near black dust when you brake so it shows up easier.
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post #9 of 18 Old 02-03-2016, 02:34 PM
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thats only about triple what those kits are worth, Boogieman has the right idea, 3" BDS springs go for ~$115 per pair and are pretty highly regarded springs. add zone universal bumpstops for $15 per pair and their extended sway bar links are $40 per pair

going through a quadratec catalog is a sure way to spend too much for sub par parts
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post #10 of 18 Old 02-03-2016, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
thats only about triple what those kits are worth, Boogieman has the right idea, 3" BDS springs go for ~$115 per pair and are pretty highly regarded springs. add zone universal bumpstops for $15 per pair and their extended sway bar links are $40 per pair

going through a quadratec catalog is a sure way to spend too much for sub par parts


Quadratec sells a lot of the same brands as a number of other sites. I'd shop around once I decided on one. I just used the link for reference.
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post #11 of 18 Old 02-03-2016, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
You need front and rear.
Longer rear swaybar links far from necessary. Maybe at 4" they are good idea, but even then I doubt most would have a problem with stock links.

Dakar Style Rally Raid in North America: www.sonorarally.com
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post #12 of 18 Old 02-03-2016, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DANSBIRD View Post
Quadratec sells a lot of the same brands as a number of other sites. I'd shop around once I decided on one.
not really, just read through their catalogs long enough to build all the dreams off of editors comments, then read a ton about the products in the field and realized 95% of the stuff in that catalog is garbage.

i often come off a bit rough, but the point is valid.
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post #13 of 18 Old 02-03-2016, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
not really, just read through their catalogs long enough to build all the dreams off of editors comments, then read a ton about the products in the field and realized 95% of the stuff in that catalog is garbage.

i often come off a bit rough, but the point is valid.
your opinion has been noted and I will certainly explore other options. I was just asking about TeraFlex and provided the link. I've heard good things about Zone and BDS, but never owned anything BDS. I'll check them out.
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post #14 of 18 Old 02-03-2016, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Longer rear swaybar links far from necessary. Maybe at 4" they are good idea, but even then I doubt most would have a problem with stock links.
And you can make your own:



...HTH
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post #15 of 18 Old 02-03-2016, 08:43 PM
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How about this.........

stock springs and shocks (maybe 3\4 in spacers )
1 or 1.25 inch body lift
1 inch MML
high line fenders front and rear....home brew, after market etc..lots of options.
tummy tuck as high as possible with out getting drive line vibrations.( goal being no sye, adjustable arms, or new drive shaft.)
tires to fill wheel wells. over 33s might require more up grades.
gears to match tires.
skid plates if desired.

i think this set up would (might) eliminate lots of common problems (vibes and death wobble) for the guy who wants more clearance but is not a heavy rock crawler.
what do ya'll think yeah or nah ?

2004 sahara, 2 inch BDS spring lift, BDS discos, 31bfg at, on ravines.

Last edited by 2004sahara; 02-03-2016 at 09:36 PM. Reason: addition of MML
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