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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:04 PM   #61
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will1424 View Post
Thanks thats some pretty good ideas
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Originally Posted by will1424 View Post
That's a lot of flex out of a short arm
right, but there is also some detailed stuff regarding suspension design in that particular post. Do you notice what's going on with shock length, bumpstops, track bar or the springs? Can you comment on how you would improve these things?

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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:08 PM   #62
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right, but there is also some detailed stuff regarding suspension design in that particular post. Do you notice what's going on with shock length or the bumpstops?
I just glanced it over. I'm actually on the road right now. I couldn't read through all of it. When I get off work I will read through it all. From the pics I saw looked like the bumpstops were elongated and I saw the rear inner shock mounts
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:13 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by will1424 View Post
I just glanced it over. I'm actually on the road right now. I couldn't read through all of it. When I get off work I will read through it all. From the pics I saw looked like the bumpstops were elongated and I saw the rear inner shock mounts
if you do read the whole thread, the answers to my questions are in there. theres are a few technical/detail oriented issues in the photos in that particular post. I was hoping you could identify those, and propose a way they could be addressed. With a good working knowledge of suspension, you'll be able to pick them out quickly.
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:21 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by will1424 View Post
I know how a suspension works. I know how to properly set one up.
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
With a good working knowledge of suspension, you'll be able to pick them out quickly.
Remember, he already possesses that knowledge. He's just playing dumb with us.
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:28 PM   #65
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Remember, he already possesses that knowledge. He's just playing dumb with us.
Thought I told you to quit running your mouths or gtfo
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:31 PM   #66
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:34 PM   #67
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Oh ****. :banhammer:

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I want your used D30/D35 chromo shafts!

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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:45 PM   #68
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Wow how many feet of travel can I get out of my suspension?



Your lack of intelligence and understanding of how a Jeep forum and a Jeep suspension works just amazes me along with your blatant lack of maturity and respect for others is clearly shown in your previous posts.

Grow up and read all of the previous posts and try to comprehend the help they are trying to give you.


BTW it's HUMP DAY!!!
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:52 PM   #69
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Thought I told you to quit running your mouths or gtfo
You're not playing dumb?

OK, my apologies little Willy.
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:58 PM   #70
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Here's friendly advice. Take it for what it's worth.

You live in Norton, VA. That's close to Harlan, which is one of my wheeling areas. I know the terrain down there and what works and what doesn't.

You plan on running 38's, but you're not wanting to cut much. That's going to require a lot of lift. I understand that.

You're planning on running 38's. You have a low pinion Dana 30 and a Dana 35. You want to upgrade those axles with chromo shafts. I understand that.

Place some kind of tall narrow object on a table. Try to tip it over and see how easy it is. Now take an object that is the same height, but has a wider base. See how easy it is to tip over. A bit more difficult, right?

Now, take what you're considering: Stock upgraded axles with a narrow WMS. A really tall lift and combining it narrow axles will not work where you live. Not if you're hitting the boulders. For the down south mud bogger guys, this works just fine. For off camber wheeling, you're going to get peeled off the bottom of a mountainside cliff. The taller you go, the wider you need to go to offset it.

A low pinion TJ Dana 30, even with chromo shafts, is not going to hold up for long to 38" tires. Especially with 4.88 gears. Low pinion you're running on the weak side of the gear set. Your axle shafts may hold up and maybe even your u-joints if you're not a throttle jockey, but your gears will grenade sooner rather than later. An upgraded D35 will not handle 38s. A Ford 8.8 will, but it's a slightly more narrow axle than your stock one, which leads back to issue one.

If this is your daily driver and you can't afford for it to be down more than a weekend to put a lift on it, then you definitely won't be able to handle it being totaled when it rolls or breaks. There's some good advice in this thread. Be open to it.
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Unread 09-11-2013, 01:04 PM   #71
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 09-11-2013, 01:04 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
if you do read the whole thread, the answers to my questions are in there. theres are a few technical/detail oriented issues in the photos in that particular post. I was hoping you could identify those, and propose a way they could be addressed. With a good working knowledge of suspension, you'll be able to pick them out quickly.
I disagree with the shock to CA angle . Standard is in the ballpark of 90 degrees and in one of the pictures it looks more around 60. The coil buckets being moved back could make contact with the shocks. Maybe not. Overall i like the idea especially since thats just with 2.5" lift springs. The CA angle just bothers me because rule in hand is that the more level the angle the smoother the ride. witch that could always be fixed by adjusting the CAs and moving the frame mount slightly forward.
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Unread 09-11-2013, 01:16 PM   #73
will1424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepAddOnsChris View Post
Here's friendly advice. Take it for what it's worth.

You live in Norton, VA. That's close to Harlan, which is one of my wheeling areas. I know the terrain down there and what works and what doesn't.

You plan on running 38's, but you're not wanting to cut much. That's going to require a lot of lift. I understand that.

You're planning on running 38's. You have a low pinion Dana 30 and a Dana 35. You want to upgrade those axles with chromo shafts. I understand that.

Place some kind of tall narrow object on a table. Try to tip it over and see how easy it is. Now take an object that is the same height, but has a wider base. See how easy it is to tip over. A bit more difficult, right?

Now, take what you're considering: Stock upgraded axles with a narrow WMS. A really tall lift and combining it narrow axles will not work where you live. Not if you're hitting the boulders. For the down south mud bogger guys, this works just fine. For off camber wheeling, you're going to get peeled off the bottom of a mountainside cliff. The taller you go, the wider you need to go to offset it.

A low pinion TJ Dana 30, even with chromo shafts, is not going to hold up for long to 38" tires. Especially with 4.88 gears. Low pinion you're running on the weak side of the gear set. Your axle shafts may hold up and maybe even your u-joints if you're not a throttle jockey, but your gears will grenade sooner rather than later. An upgraded D35 will not handle 38s. A Ford 8.8 will, but it's a slightly more narrow axle than your stock one, which leads back to issue one.

If this is your daily driver and you can't afford for it to be down more than a weekend to put a lift on it, then you definitely won't be able to handle it being totaled when it rolls or breaks. There's some good advice in this thread. Be open to it.


Thanks so much. Its easy to take advice when people aren't dicks about it. lol. I'm fairly new to the crawling i was more of a mud guy until it near destroyed a vehicle i had. Im wanting to sway it towards rocks. although i have been around cars my entire life. I 100 perecent agree with you. You must wheel at black mtn, correct? Do you think i could get away with a dana 30 and an 8.8 on 37s with spacers to widen the tire width? What route do you think i should go on the suspension? an upgraded short arm kit. or a LA? I thought about an 8.8 with the 4 link truss in the rear. not sure in the front. I've wheeled at black mtn a few times. Its a fun time. I agree that there is some good advice in here. Its just hard to listen to it when they are being asses about it. Seriously though. No sarcasm intended, i appreciate your advice. Thanks. I may pm you on a few things rather than post it on here because all this has done is put me in a bad mood. lol
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Unread 09-11-2013, 01:35 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by will1424 View Post
Thanks so much. Its easy to take advice when people aren't dicks about it. lol. I'm fairly new to the crawling i was more of a mud guy until it near destroyed a vehicle i had. Im wanting to sway it towards rocks. although i have been around cars my entire life. I 100 perecent agree with you. You must wheel at black mtn, correct? Do you think i could get away with a dana 30 and an 8.8 on 37s with spacers to widen the tire width? What route do you think i should go on the suspension? an upgraded short arm kit. or a LA? I thought about an 8.8 with the 4 link truss in the rear. not sure in the front. I've wheeled at black mtn a few times. Its a fun time. I agree that there is some good advice in here. Its just hard to listen to it when they are being asses about it. Seriously though. No sarcasm intended, i appreciate your advice. Thanks. I may pm you on a few things rather than post it on here because all this has done is put me in a bad mood. lol
that axle combo will work for 37s, even better with a HP 30 out of a cherokee. they bolt right in if you get the correct year. that will give you a stronger gear setup. but spacers will wear out your bearings and ball joints faster than normal. its a price you pay. short arm/mid arm lifts are good if you want to stay at a relatively mild lift height.

contrary to what you may think Imped is probably one of the most well known suspension gurus around here. his jeep flexes and digs like no other with a mid arm setup. he just has a blunt way of saying things, you get used to it.
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 09-11-2013, 01:36 PM   #75
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I stopped using the terms short or long with arm length a while back, its more of stock and custom. Most long arm kits are lacking in a few areas which is why a lot of people like custom arms. The length of arms depends more on what fits your vehicle for mounts and axle location. And arms a simply 1 part of the process. You still have shock mounts, coil bucket location, axle strength mods, and more. All of those combine to set a great riding jeep or a very unstable jeep. And to add a bit more, you get to worry about clearances with steering, frame, gas tank, etc.

There is a lot of research to do it right
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