Lift Kit Advice - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 09:10 AM
tyvanwie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99TJer93

So if I wanna run 33's in the future the 2.5 OME is a good start with the addition of a 1.25" bl? But I'd have to upgrade the rear axle only?
No, you don't HAVE to do anything. I've been running 33s on a dana 35 for awhile now. All depends on where and how hard you wheel.


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post #17 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyvanwie
No, you don't HAVE to do anything. I've been running 33s on a dana 35 for awhile now. All depends on where and how hard you wheel.
I agree with tyvanwie. I have been running 33s on a dana 35 with 3:73 gears and 2"BB for years. Can do 70+ on hwy with no problem. Minor tire to fender flare contact when wheeling but nothing significant.
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post #18 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99TJer93
So if I wanna run 33's in the future the 2.5 OME is a good start with the addition of a 1.25" bl? But I'd have to upgrade the rear axle only?
The only thing that I would recommend for 33's is a regear if you have 3.07s but that's not NECESSARY. 35's are when axle upgrades come into play because of the added stress.

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post #19 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
99TJer93
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Gotcha. Ill start with OME's kit then do a body lift when I get 33's.
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post #20 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 09:56 AM
Ross
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The D35 isn't as strong as the D44. If you are careful with your skinny pedal and use common sense you will be fine. I ran 33s with 3.73s and it worked but I wasn't happy with it. It was still very capable off road, I just wasn't what I wanted.

I have a 5spd, with an auto gearing isn't as much of an issue.

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post #21 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 10:39 AM
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If you do decide to swap over to a D44, make sure it's an aftermarket one, and not a factory stock option one.. They're not much stronger then the D35.. Pumpkins the only major difference along with a few more splines

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post #22 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 10:40 AM
tyvanwie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1shotwonder
If you do decide to swap over to a D44, make sure it's an aftermarket one, and not a factory stock option one.. They're not much stronger then the D35..
Uhm what

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post #23 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyvanwie View Post
Uhm what
Only major advantage you're getting swapping directly over to a factory option dana 44 (standard cut) is the pumpkin is stronger.. Tubes are the same 2.5 x .25

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post #24 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1shotwonder View Post
If you do decide to swap over to a D44, make sure it's an aftermarket one, and not a factory stock option one.. They're not much stronger then the D35..
says who?

the same people that can break a D35c w/ 3.07s & 31s pulling out of their driveway can make a locked D44 w/4.88s & 35s survive through some crazy stuff, even with stock shafts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1shotwonder View Post
Pumpkins the only major difference along with a few more splines
a few more splines adds a lot of strength because it also implies a diameter increase. then there's also the larger gear set & larger carrier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1shotwonder View Post
Only major advantage you're getting swapping directly over to a factory option dana 44 (standard cut) is the pumpkin is stronger.. Tubes are the same 2.5 x .25
but when's the last time you've seen a bent tube?

All the ones I've seen were serious accidents or the driver doing something really dumb they shouldn't have been doing anyway. The axle tubes aren't the weak point on the D30s, D35s or the D44s.
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post #25 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 11:01 AM
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You are banned for this thread AND a poll.
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post #26 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 11:19 AM
1shotwonder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
says who?

the same people that can break a D35c w/ 3.07s & 31s pulling out of their driveway can make a locked D44 w/4.88s & 35s survive through some crazy stuff, even with stock shafts.


a few more splines adds a lot of strength because it also implies a diameter increase. then there's also the larger gear set & larger carrier.



but when's the last time you've seen a bent tube?

All the ones I've seen were serious accidents or the driver doing something really dumb they shouldn't have been doing anyway. The axle tubes aren't the weak point on the D30s, D35s or the D44s.
A lot of what you just mentioned has to do with rigidity of the pumkin itself..The major issue with the 35s are that they flex, which directly leads to crap breaking.. Simply welding the tubes to the pumpkin, decreases the housing flex

Guess I worded it wrong in my post above, lol, nothing really new

All depends on what your into crawling vs highspeed south west stuff

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post #27 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1shotwonder
If you do decide to swap over to a D44, make sure it's an aftermarket one, and not a factory stock option one.. They're not much stronger then the D35.. Pumpkins the only major difference along with a few more splines
If all things were equal here, if the D35 has 27 spline shafts and the D44 has 30 spline shafts. Then the D44 rear axle shafts are 33% stronger than the D35 shafts. That's pretty significant.

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post #28 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 01:57 PM
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post #29 of 29 Old 02-11-2014, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
99TJer93
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Take your axle discussion else where ya filthy animals
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3" lift , lift kit advice , tj lift kits

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