Installed an OME 2.5" lift today. I'll start a new build thread, but right now I need help with the passenger side rear shock mount.
Both bolts on the upper end of the rear shock mount sheared off inside the weld-sert, didn't turn a single bit - sheared off instantly. Its a class 10.9 (grade 8 metric equivalent).
We tried drilling, then using an EZ-Out. Didn't work.
We tried drilling with a larger bit, trying to bore a hole large enough to fit the same sized M8 bolt through it. We busted several bits trying to drill both out, and were unsuccessful. The bits just wear out very fast drilling the class 10.9 steel, even with liberal lubrication.
Three different guys tried: one mechanic, and two guys who've done multiple TJ/LJ/XJ lifts. All tried seperately and together for 5+ hours. We came to the conclusions the bolts are just completely seized.
Right my I'm bouncing like crazy down the road.
I have a BL, and enough room to slide a washer, lock washer and nut in from the backside, I just need to get the damn weld-sert off the frame.
HELP! How do I get the weld-serts off ?
One option that is not possible: torching. This area is right next to the gas tank and evap/emissions stuff.
it makes it difficult when there's a busted easy out in the way... lol..
you can try to twist off the welded nut with a long wrench then use bolt and nut, since you have a bl, you can actually get in there.... this can be difficult tho on the newer tj's, the welded nut is square.. I'm usually succesfull with a carbide tipped drill bit and drill it out and use helicoil or just retap it and use a 3/8" bolt instead of the 8mm metric.
rubidriver posted a thread on how he got his removed, tho I don't recall him having a busted tap in it..
__________________ I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable
Nothing new really but just to let you know my experience..... I snapped onw on each side wen I did my lift (the outermost bolt). Originally I tried to drill smaller and save the threads but to no avail so I just drilled larger and threw a locker nut plus a double nut and called it good. It was hard to drill through the original welded nut and I did smoke a bit but keep at it you will get it.
03 TJ silver, 4.0 5 speed, RC 3.25" lift, JKS 1.25" BL, 1" MML, RC 2.2 Steering stabilizer, 33x12.50 BFG AT T/A KO's, 15x8 MB Razor Wheels
Optional D44 rear
Custom switches in sound pods for when doors are off
JKS Disco's, Infinity's in the pods
Man that sucks. the only thing i can suggest is heat. But like you said your worried about the fumes. even a small cigar lighter torch would work just need to heat the metal. Id go to napa and get a drill bit just for drilling in harded steel. My drill bit 9/16 was 22 bucks that was for installing the JKS track bar. It worked like a champ.
I dont know anything else I can suggest.Heat up the screwand try to use and easy out.
2004 LJ*RIP Love * Ex-Wife Stole you and Sold you *Current 1999 XJ Heep
Is there a reason why you are opposed to dropping the fuel tank out?
You could weld a stud sticking down from the frame and then use a nut to hold the upper shock mount rather than bolting into the frame.
I don't want to drop the tank. Too much screwing around, and it doesn't matter - I'd have to pull the evap stuff out too, all the fuel lines and everything. I'll just keep drilling...they've got to give sometime, even if I burn though more bits.