Lift Install Problems....

**Unlimited04** · 05-15-2009, 10:37 PM

Installed an OME 2.5" lift today. I'll start a new build thread, but right now I need help with the passenger side rear shock mount.

Both bolts on the upper end of the rear shock mount sheared off inside the weld-sert, didn't turn a single bit - sheared off instantly. Its a class 10.9 (grade 8 metric equivalent).

We tried drilling, then using an EZ-Out. Didn't work.
We tried drilling with a larger bit, trying to bore a hole large enough to fit the same sized M8 bolt through it. We busted several bits trying to drill both out, and were unsuccessful. The bits just wear out very fast drilling the class 10.9 steel, even with liberal lubrication.

Three different guys tried: one mechanic, and two guys who've done multiple TJ/LJ/XJ lifts. All tried seperately and together for 5+ hours. We came to the conclusions the bolts are just completely seized.

Right my I'm bouncing like crazy down the road.

I have a BL, and enough room to slide a washer, lock washer and nut in from the backside, I just need to get the damn weld-sert off the frame.

HELP! How do I get the weld-serts off ?

One option that is not possible: torching. This area is right next to the gas tank and evap/emissions stuff.

**mudb8** · 05-15-2009, 10:48 PM

it makes it difficult when there's a busted easy out in the way... lol..

you can try to twist off the welded nut with a long wrench then use bolt and nut, since you have a bl, you can actually get in there.... this can be difficult tho on the newer tj's, the welded nut is square.. I'm usually succesfull with a carbide tipped drill bit and drill it out and use helicoil or just retap it and use a 3/8" bolt instead of the 8mm metric.

rubidriver posted a thread on how he got his removed, tho I don't recall him having a busted tap in it..

**Unlimited04** · 05-15-2009, 10:52 PM

luckily I do NOT have a drill bit or tap/EZ-Out stuck up in there.

I think I'm going to buy a chisel and the hardest freakin' bit the local hardware store has. If I can't drill it out, I'll see if I can chisel the weld off.

We did try channel locks to bust it off, it just rounded the top of the screw off.

Any other ideas/links would be AWESOME. i'm fried and going to bed.

**mudb8** · 05-15-2009, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

luckily I do NOT have a drill bit or tap/EZ-Out stuck up in there.

I think I'm going to buy a chisel and the hardest freakin' bit the local hardware store has. If I can't drill it out, I'll see if I can chisel the weld off.

We did try channel locks to bust it off, it just rounded the top of the screw off.

yep, that's what happens to me also when I can get to them. I haven't had one I couldn't drill out tho... an air chisel will sometimes pop the nut off also from the bottom.

**Unlimited04** · 05-16-2009, 08:40 AM

ok, its a new day and i'm gonna try to get the shock on before getting the alignment done. any more ideas?

JeepinRRT · 05-16-2009, 08:46 AM

Nothing new really but just to let you know my experience..... I snapped onw on each side wen I did my lift (the outermost bolt). Originally I tried to drill smaller and save the threads but to no avail so I just drilled larger and threw a locker nut plus a double nut and called it good. It was hard to drill through the original welded nut and I did smoke a bit but keep at it you will get it.

JESSETHELJ · 05-16-2009, 08:51 AM

Man that sucks. the only thing i can suggest is heat. But like you said your worried about the fumes. even a small cigar lighter torch would work just need to heat the metal. Id go to napa and get a drill bit just for drilling in harded steel. My drill bit 9/16 was 22 bucks that was for installing the JKS track bar. It worked like a champ.

I dont know anything else I can suggest.Heat up the screwand try to use and easy out.

**mudb8** · 05-16-2009, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JESSETHELJ

My drill bit 9/16 was 22 bucks that was for installing the JKS track bar. It worked like a champ.

I dont know anything else I can suggest.Heat up the screwand try to use and easy out.

lol... that's a big drill bit for a 5/16" bolt!

it'd be more like it was just a rivot, and you drilled off the weld from the bottom...

Rubicon_Rob04 · 05-16-2009, 11:11 AM

Is there a reason why you are opposed to dropping the fuel tank out?

You could weld a stud sticking down from the frame and then use a nut to hold the upper shock mount rather than bolting into the frame.

**Unlimited04** · 05-16-2009, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rob97tj

Is there a reason why you are opposed to dropping the fuel tank out?

You could weld a stud sticking down from the frame and then use a nut to hold the upper shock mount rather than bolting into the frame.

I don't want to drop the tank. Too much screwing around, and it doesn't matter - I'd have to pull the evap stuff out too, all the fuel lines and everything. I'll just keep drilling...they've got to give sometime, even if I burn though more bits.

jersey1972fj40 · 05-16-2009, 07:47 PM

If you have air tools just take a air chisel and cut the nut off the top. I just did 2 today. Then just get a new bolt and nut. buy good stuff.

**Unlimited04** · 05-16-2009, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jersey1972fj40

If you have air tools just take a air chisel and cut the nut off the top. I just did 2 today. Then just get a new bolt and nut. buy good stuff.

I've got Class 10.9 M8 bolts and Class 8.8 nuts/washers/lock-washers ready to go. No access to an air chisel.

ACE had 10.9 bolts, but only 8.8 nuts...wtf?