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Unread 09-26-2013, 08:24 PM   #31
Ro11s
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs4race View Post
Don't worry about some of these fools. They regurgitate crap and aren't up to trying something new. They would probably still be riding horses if it wasn't for other smart people.

Stay low, if there's no point to raise it then don't. Mine is on stock springs with 35" tires and I like it this height. The only thing I would change is perhaps a bit more uptravel, I will probably highline at some point. It works quite well offroad and its a rare occasion that I would get hung up on something.

The metalcloak control arms are very nice. All of my control arm bushings are duroflex and the ride is much nicer than before. Depending on your end goal, and if your sticking with stock shocks for now I would stick with the stock control arms and invest in something else. The stock control arms are designed to flex with the stock shocks.

Upgrade the stock track bar? Not at 2", not unless your stocker is worn out (wobbles are a good sign). The stock trackbar at 2" will shift the axle ~1/4" to the driver side and you will rub less on the steering box bolts when turning sharply. If you do upgrade find a trackbar where the adjustment is on the frame side, this will help keep the trackbar from hitting the diff when you adjust it. I would recommend metalcloak if you do.

If you have to choose between track bar and shocks, do shocks... but if you want long travel on 2" of lift your gonna need to look at bumpstops, and shock mount relocation. The problem you will have if you get some good long travel shocks is that they are a lot longer than stock when compressed, which means you loose a quite a bit of uptravel and will need to extend bumpstops. If you can cut and weld then you will have no problem relocating the shock mounts to get that up travel back.

You could check out my build thread for some ideas on the suspension. My shock mounts and bumpstops are setup for 2" lift but I'm running stock springs so my uptravel is only about 3". Sounds like my build is similar to what your looking at for now.
Very helpful thank you! I am able to grind thing off and a buddy who can weld and is teaching me. I knew I word have to relocate the mounts so that's not an issue.

The track bar working is good to know, so that can wait until later.

At some point I will be highlining to regain some up travel, and also doing an axle swap to handle 37s.

I'm definitely going to check out ur build sheet and see what u have gone on!

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1999 TJ Sahara, bushwhacker flat fenders, 33"KM2, smittybilt xrc 8 winch, bumpers, rock sliders. 1" OEM body lift, 2" OEM spring spacers.
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Unread 09-27-2013, 06:52 AM   #32
dayriesw
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2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
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1) I am staying low because it appeals to me more than having a jacked up tall rig. I'm not trying to follow a "style" its just what I like and so that is what I am going to work to build.

I understand. I just lowered mine from 4.5" of like to 2" due to being way to tippy for the hills that I wheel in. Last time I wheeled, I almost rolled off the trail twice on a side hill due to once bad spotting and once just being too tall. Both times, my butt was saved by leaning into a tree that kept me from rolling 40'+ down the steep hill.

2) whatever control arm I buy is going to be a strength upgrade from the stamped steel I have now. And I assumed it would be implied that with the control arms I would like to buy, Metalcloak adjustable with the duroflex joints, that the joints would help with the ride.

I was just making sure you knew what did what because I assumed you did from what you wrote. See what assuming does on the internet.

3) Upgrade track bar! Thanks. That may be the first solid answer I have gotten yet. It is greatly appreciated!

I am on a 1" over stock on my suspension. If you look at my build, you will see how much I we t thru to get the right tb. Some on my frustration was due to my own ignorance and because I did do all the research I should have.

4) Track bar instead of new shocks. Just make my current work for now. Thanks

Go back and read what I said. This is not it. I said measure after everything is in place to see if you need new shock. One again, if shocks basically control you axle articulation from the frame, and you don't change shock, then you have the same articulation, right? What is the point of doing all this and not upgrading anything but tire size?

5) I have a durango steering box and currie linkage on the way.

Why Durango over Mercedes or psc? I don't know much about the Durango.

6) I do plan on covering my jeep in armor. so using a sawsall for some minor body triming is not a big deal.

7) I alreay have 33s and a winch and can do a fair amount, but Ive had this set up for almost 3 years and I feel its time to take it a step further and try some harder trails, and to do that I need some upgrades.

No offense, but a budget boost and 33"s set up vs a real 2" spring, aftermarket control arms and the right shock are not the same.

8) I may not be too educated and could be wrong, but Flex is movment in an up or downward motion. Some call it articulation, suspension travel, I call it flex. And more flex is not always better, but more useable flex is!


I might have missed it but what are you running for an engine, a belly skid and gas tank skid? As you can imagine, those will become even more important when you are at a smaller lift height?
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Unread 09-27-2013, 08:00 AM   #33
Ro11s
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
1) I am staying low because it appeals to me more than having a jacked up tall rig. I'm not trying to follow a "style" its just what I like and so that is what I am going to work to build.

I understand. I just lowered mine from 4.5" of like to 2" due to being way to tippy for the hills that I wheel in. Last time I wheeled, I almost rolled off the trail twice on a side hill due to once bad spotting and once just being too tall. Both times, my butt was saved by leaning into a tree that kept me from rolling 40'+ down the steep hill.

2) whatever control arm I buy is going to be a strength upgrade from the stamped steel I have now. And I assumed it would be implied that with the control arms I would like to buy, Metalcloak adjustable with the duroflex joints, that the joints would help with the ride.

I was just making sure you knew what did what because I assumed you did from what you wrote. See what assuming does on the internet.

3) Upgrade track bar! Thanks. That may be the first solid answer I have gotten yet. It is greatly appreciated!

I am on a 1" over stock on my suspension. If you look at my build, you will see how much I we t thru to get the right tb. Some on my frustration was due to my own ignorance and because I did do all the research I should have.

4) Track bar instead of new shocks. Just make my current work for now. Thanks

Go back and read what I said. This is not it. I said measure after everything is in place to see if you need new shock. One again, if shocks basically control you axle articulation from the frame, and you don't change shock, then you have the same articulation, right? What is the point of doing all this and not upgrading anything but tire size?

5) I have a durango steering box and currie linkage on the way.

Why Durango over Mercedes or psc? I don't know much about the Durango.

6) I do plan on covering my jeep in armor. so using a sawsall for some minor body triming is not a big deal.

7) I alreay have 33s and a winch and can do a fair amount, but Ive had this set up for almost 3 years and I feel its time to take it a step further and try some harder trails, and to do that I need some upgrades.

No offense, but a budget boost and 33"s set up vs a real 2" spring, aftermarket control arms and the right shock are not the same.

8) I may not be too educated and could be wrong, but Flex is movment in an up or downward motion. Some call it articulation, suspension travel, I call it flex. And more flex is not always better, but more useable flex is!


I might have missed it but what are you running for an engine, a belly skid and gas tank skid? As you can imagine, those will become even more important when you are at a smaller lift height?
Yea I want to take out as much possibility of rolling as I can. Im sure a lot of people have said that. lol But I'm pretty much counting on it at some point. When I get to an axle swap (undecided on what axles) I want to kick it out to atleast 65 wms.

As far as me jumping to upgrading the track bar, its more out of lack of shop availability. Right now I live at an apt complex and I just got yelled at a few weeks ago for doing some simple bed liner kick panels. lol The only shop I have access to is filled with 2 semi trucks all the time, so when I can find space in there, its tight and I try to get as much done as time allows.

Advantage of the durango box is
1) $150 brand spanking new, not rebuilt.
2) direct bolt in, and all the exact same fittings
3) larger bore size to move more fluid, making it slightly easier to turn 35s with less stress than the TJ box
4) slightly faster turn from lock to lock. I think 2 3/4 turn over the TJ 3 3/8. dont quote me on the numbers tho. but its close

The durango box fits my year jeep, 97-01 I think, and then they switch to a mercedes box for 02-06. And again dont quote me on the years. lol

And I would hope theres a difference between what I have now and what I have now. If they were the same, Id be wasting a bunch of money, but I may be doing that anyways. lol Im just trying to slowly get started on some upgrading.

I have the 4.0 with 5 speed tranny and np231. No real upgrades to any of it yet. I only have OEM skids but I do plan on rokmen TT with their engin skid. And I still need a skid for my gas tank. These are up in the air as far as when I upgrade. Ive been lucky so far, but dont want to push it to much longer. And by everyones suggestions on many forums, sooner rather than later. lol
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1999 TJ Sahara, bushwhacker flat fenders, 33"KM2, smittybilt xrc 8 winch, bumpers, rock sliders. 1" OEM body lift, 2" OEM spring spacers.
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Unread 09-27-2013, 08:07 AM   #34
mrblaine
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley, California
Posts: 25,933
Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
1)

8) I may not be too educated and could be wrong, but Flex is movment in an up or downward motion. Some call it articulation, suspension travel, I call it flex. And more flex is not always better, but more useable flex is!

If I mounted a pair of shocks with 2" of travel a foot apart at the diff and then angled them in so they were next to each other at the bottom of the tub, would you have flex, articulation, suspension travel, or useable flex?

It is somewhat important to understand the terminology and how to apply it.

It could have high levels of useable flex or articulation with very limited suspension uptravel, low levels of down travel that when discussed would lead one to believe incorrectly that the overall travel at the tires would give you good suspension travel in the conventional sense even though it would ride and handle like crap.
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