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Unread 09-26-2013, 03:25 PM   #16
dayriesw
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I love these threads, best thing to do on this (and most forums is not to mention cog, ever). As I have recently found out myself, if you have to ask any questions..... You are not ready (I am not being an *******, this is MY recent experience in my bolt together build).

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Unread 09-26-2013, 03:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
I love these threads, best thing to do on this (and most forums is not to mention cog, ever). As I have recently found out myself, if you have to ask any questions..... You are not ready (I am not being an *******, this is MY recent experience in my bolt together build).
Lol I think I am finding this out. But all my other friends are your guys and bash jeeps left and right, so I have to suck it up, take some beatings and get some answers. Lol but because I'm limited in ability, its bolt on for me. Lol

And I've seen some of the arguments over cog, but that seems the best way to describe what I'm trying to go for. Lol as low as I can for stability, and 37s for clearance. Cof is just easier to type on a small phone keyboard. Lol
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Unread 09-26-2013, 03:38 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by _KONG_ View Post
Save all your money and buy some gas. Wheel it till you find its weaknesses and problems you need to fix. The terrain you wheel will dictate how to build your jeep. Dont worry about COG so much
For the most part I'm doing just that, but a weakness is suspension now. Otherwise it would be gear, tires and high line. But my suspension is a step from dead, I have 2 spring coil spacers in my passenger front. And why not upgrade while I'm down there working on it
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Unread 09-26-2013, 03:39 PM   #19
Timido
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You have the right idea for a solid jeep. Other then the tired lift what are your limitations offroad?
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Unread 09-26-2013, 03:48 PM   #20
dayriesw
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And to help out a little....


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ro11s View Post
I get what everyone is saying. Im going to take WKduece's advice and make my questions more clear. lol

I'm 24 and I bought my jeep bone stock 3 years ago. I did not grow up around mechanicaly inclined people, everything was taken to shops for even an oil change. I am in process of learning as much as I can so I can do my own work. Thus I dont have much knowledge or ability to do custom arms on my own yet or anything that serious. My jeep is going to be a step by step project for many years to come, Im just asking for some advice if I am taking a good first step.

What I would like to know is:

1) I have a 2 inch budget boost, my springs are tired and need replaced. I want to replace those with 2 inch lift springs from OME, essentially keeping me the same height minus the difference in my current spring sag.

so you are going lcog because your current springs are bad? Just replace the current springs or don't use this to justify your reasoning

2) My track bar does not hit as of now, I am essentially staying the same height, so do I need to upgrade that or no? I'm not sure how much added flex there will be so I would rather place one order and knock everything out in a day.

[COLOR="rgb(255, 140, 0)"]No, the compressed spring with spacer you have now will probably not be the same as the compressed new spring. Define flex, please. Who cares about flex, you should care about everything clearing everything else throughout the suspension's travel. [/COLOR]

3) Along with this, my shocks are worn out and need replaced. It's worth it to me to get what will last me the longest, even if I wont touch the potential of them yet.
I have a sawzall that will be used in the rear and I will see what needs done up front.

[COLOR="rgb(255, 140, 0)"]Don't buy shocks until you have the whole thing set up and you can measure the distance (at full bump) from upper shock mount to lower and then do it again at the extended length (when you are at full droop). Who cares about a sawsall? I really hope that isnt what you will use on your jeep. You will need new fendered in front and potentially need to trim the rear sheet metal. I highly suggest you not use a sawsall on sheet metal that you might want to keep unless you cover it with armor. [/COLOR]

4) The control arms are for the added strength, better ride, and a little added flex.

[COLOR="rgb(255, 140, 0)"]Control arms dont do any of that stuff. The length of shocks, where they are mounted and use of limiting straps control what you are calling flex. Stop using the word flex unless you can define it. Strength, have you ever see a control arm break? EVER? Better ride, the arms have nothing to do with this. Springs, shocks, control arm joints are things that contribute to a better ride but arms arent.[/COLOR]

So basically, how is this for a starting point? Is the track bar needed to keep from contacting or will mine hold off for a bit longer? Is there anything just absolutly wrong with this "plan" that someone should hunt me down and slap me? lol This is just a starting point, there are so many more upgrades to get to where I want, but 37s wont happen for years. regearing and 35s are next years plans, I just want to freshen up/upgrade the suspension a bit before I get them.

C[COLOR="rgb(255, 140, 0)"]hances are, you will need a new trackbar but you will not know for certain until you cycle the suspension thru it's full travel. See above.... When you turn 35s from full left to full right, you will hit the controls way before you turn all the way. You will need to solve that too or do 45 point turns on the trail.

Just plan on new steering linkage, cooler for steering if you air down your tires, new brakes, regear, and many more that I am forgetting. [/COLOR]
I am sure that I am forgetting a bunch of stuff to tell you too.
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Looking for a set of dana 30 shafts for a TJ or XJ, stock and good condition. PM me if you have a set and willing to ship or are in LA.
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Unread 09-26-2013, 03:50 PM   #21
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33s on a decent 2" lift and a tummy tuck will get you down the same trails. A winch will get you further
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Impact Orange LJ - DD...sitting low, flat bottomed, fully armored and locked on 35s


Looking for a set of dana 30 shafts for a TJ or XJ, stock and good condition. PM me if you have a set and willing to ship or are in LA.
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Unread 09-26-2013, 04:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ro11s View Post
For the most part I'm doing just that, but a weakness is suspension now. Otherwise it would be gear, tires and high line. But my suspension is a step from dead, I have 2 spring coil spacers in my passenger front. And why not upgrade while I'm down there working on it
Your terrain will tell you more about your suspension needs then i ever could, but everyone should have the basic mods. Armor, lockers, and winch
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Unread 09-26-2013, 04:20 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
And to help out a little....




I am sure that I am forgetting a bunch of stuff to tell you too.
1) I am staying low because it appeals to me more than having a jacked up tall rig. I'm not trying to follow a "style" its just what I like and so that is what I am going to work to build.

2) whatever control arm I buy is going to be a strength upgrade from the stamped steel I have now. And I assumed it would be implied that with the control arms I would like to buy, Metalcloak adjustable with the duroflex joints, that the joints would help with the ride.

3) Upgrade track bar! Thanks. That may be the first solid answer I have gotten yet. It is greatly appreciated!

4) Track bar instead of new shocks. Just make my current work for now. Thanks

5) I have a durango steering box and currie linkage on the way.

6) I do plan on covering my jeep in armor. so using a sawsall for some minor body triming is not a big deal.

7) I alreay have 33s and a winch and can do a fair amount, but Ive had this set up for almost 3 years and I feel its time to take it a step further and try some harder trails, and to do that I need some upgrades.

8) I may not be too educated and could be wrong, but Flex is movment in an up or downward motion. Some call it articulation, suspension travel, I call it flex. And more flex is not always better, but more useable flex is!
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Unread 09-26-2013, 06:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ro11s View Post

1) I am staying low because it appeals to me more than having a jacked up tall rig. I'm not trying to follow a "style" its just what I like and so that is what I am going to work to build.

2) whatever control arm I buy is going to be a strength upgrade from the stamped steel I have now. And I assumed it would be implied that with the control arms I would like to buy, Metalcloak adjustable with the duroflex joints, that the joints would help with the ride.

3) Upgrade track bar! Thanks. That may be the first solid answer I have gotten yet. It is greatly appreciated!

4) Track bar instead of new shocks. Just make my current work for now. Thanks

5) I have a durango steering box and currie linkage on the way.

6) I do plan on covering my jeep in armor. so using a sawsall for some minor body triming is not a big deal.

7) I alreay have 33s and a winch and can do a fair amount, but Ive had this set up for almost 3 years and I feel its time to take it a step further and try some harder trails, and to do that I need some upgrades.

8) I may not be too educated and could be wrong, but Flex is movment in an up or downward motion. Some call it articulation, suspension travel, I call it flex. And more flex is not always better, but more useable flex is!
Educate yourself on what useable flex is, then build accordingly to achieve a real lcg build is. Please finish it if you start it and don't be that guy that highlines on stock mounted arms

I'll make it simple for you, the currie trackbar is the best. Period. Best joints, and built the beefiest. It's also built to fit with currie steering too. No clearance issues either.
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Unread 09-26-2013, 07:04 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by LittleBluE View Post

I'll make it simple for you, the currie trackbar is the best. Period. Best joints, and built the beefiest. It's also built to fit with currie steering too. No clearance issues either.
I wouldn't go quite that far.

As for "build to fit with Currie steering." That makes no sense. I can easily make the two interfere if I so desire. There are no design characteristics in either the track bar or the steering linkage to make them 'fit together.'
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Unread 09-26-2013, 07:10 PM   #26
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I wouldn't go quite that far.

As for "build to fit with Currie steering." That makes no sense. I can easily make the two interfere if I so desire. There are no design characteristics in either the track bar or the steering linkage to make them 'fit together.'
If he's sticking to a stock axle, and building low, he should be able to fit the two together just fine. Obviously there will be an uptravel limit. I'm not saying he has to use those, but for he doesn't seem like he fabricated or wants to go too custom, so its a better direction for him over factory steering.

You're always playing devils advocate man!
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Unread 09-26-2013, 07:17 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by LittleBluE View Post

You're always playing devils advocate man!
That's what I'm best at.

I didn't say they would or wouldn't fit together....that's a function of axle position, not the Currie steering/track bar combo. There's another track bar on the market that I now prefer over the Currie bar.
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Unread 09-26-2013, 07:23 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post

That's what I'm best at.

I didn't say they would or wouldn't fit together....that's a function of axle position, not the Currie steering/track bar combo. There's another track bar on the market that I now prefer over the Currie bar.
Do tell, if you have a new favorite I've gotta hear it!

You're evil by the way.
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Unread 09-26-2013, 08:07 PM   #29
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Unread 09-26-2013, 08:09 PM   #30
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Don't worry about some of these fools. They regurgitate crap and aren't up to trying something new. They would probably still be riding horses if it wasn't for other smart people.

Stay low, if there's no point to raise it then don't. Mine is on stock springs with 35" tires and I like it this height. The only thing I would change is perhaps a bit more uptravel, I will probably highline at some point. It works quite well offroad and its a rare occasion that I would get hung up on something.

The metalcloak control arms are very nice. All of my control arm bushings are duroflex and the ride is much nicer than before. Depending on your end goal, and if your sticking with stock shocks for now I would stick with the stock control arms and invest in something else. The stock control arms are designed to flex with the stock shocks.

Upgrade the stock track bar? Not at 2", not unless your stocker is worn out (wobbles are a good sign). The stock trackbar at 2" will shift the axle ~1/4" to the driver side and you will rub less on the steering box bolts when turning sharply. If you do upgrade find a trackbar where the adjustment is on the frame side, this will help keep the trackbar from hitting the diff when you adjust it. I would recommend metalcloak if you do.

If you have to choose between track bar and shocks, do shocks... but if you want long travel on 2" of lift your gonna need to look at bumpstops, and shock mount relocation. The problem you will have if you get some good long travel shocks is that they are a lot longer than stock when compressed, which means you loose a quite a bit of uptravel and will need to extend bumpstops. If you can cut and weld then you will have no problem relocating the shock mounts to get that up travel back.

You could check out my build thread for some ideas on the suspension. My shock mounts and bumpstops are setup for 2" lift but I'm running stock springs so my uptravel is only about 3". Sounds like my build is similar to what your looking at for now.
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