I get what everyone is saying. Im going to take WKduece's advice and make my questions more clear. lol
I'm 24 and I bought my jeep bone stock 3 years ago. I did not grow up around mechanicaly inclined people, everything was taken to shops for even an oil change. I am in process of learning as much as I can so I can do my own work. Thus I dont have much knowledge or ability to do custom arms on my own yet or anything that serious. My jeep is going to be a step by step project for many years to come, Im just asking for some advice if I am taking a good first step.
What I would like to know is:
1) I have a 2 inch budget boost, my springs are tired and need replaced. I want to replace those with 2 inch lift springs from OME, essentially keeping me the same height minus the difference in my current spring sag.
so you are going lcog because your current springs are bad? Just replace the current springs or don't use this to justify your reasoning
2) My track bar does not hit as of now, I am essentially staying the same height, so do I need to upgrade that or no? I'm not sure how much added flex there will be so I would rather place one order and knock everything out in a day.
[COLOR="rgb(255, 140, 0)"]No, the compressed spring with spacer you have now will probably not be the same as the compressed new spring. Define flex, please. Who cares about flex, you should care about everything clearing everything else throughout the suspension's travel. [/COLOR]
3) Along with this, my shocks are worn out and need replaced. It's worth it to me to get what will last me the longest, even if I wont touch the potential of them yet.
I have a sawzall that will be used in the rear and I will see what needs done up front.
[COLOR="rgb(255, 140, 0)"]Don't buy shocks until you have the whole thing set up and you can measure the distance (at full bump) from upper shock mount to lower and then do it again at the extended length (when you are at full droop). Who cares about a sawsall? I really hope that isnt what you will use on your jeep. You will need new fendered in front and potentially need to trim the rear sheet metal. I highly suggest you not use a sawsall on sheet metal that you might want to keep unless you cover it with armor. [/COLOR]
4) The control arms are for the added strength, better ride, and a little added flex.
[COLOR="rgb(255, 140, 0)"]Control arms dont do any of that stuff. The length of shocks, where they are mounted and use of limiting straps control what you are calling flex. Stop using the word flex unless you can define it. Strength, have you ever see a control arm break? EVER? Better ride, the arms have nothing to do with this. Springs, shocks, control arm joints are things that contribute to a better ride but arms arent.[/COLOR]
So basically, how is this for a starting point? Is the track bar needed to keep from contacting or will mine hold off for a bit longer? Is there anything just absolutly wrong with this "plan" that someone should hunt me down and slap me? lol This is just a starting point, there are so many more upgrades to get to where I want, but 37s wont happen for years. regearing and 35s are next years plans, I just want to freshen up/upgrade the suspension a bit before I get them.
C[COLOR="rgb(255, 140, 0)"]hances are, you will need a new trackbar but you will not know for certain until you cycle the suspension thru it's full travel. See above.... When you turn 35s from full left to full right, you will hit the controls way before you turn all the way. You will need to solve that too or do 45 point turns on the trail.
Just plan on new steering linkage, cooler for steering if you air down your tires, new brakes, regear, and many more that I am forgetting. [/COLOR]