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KWIT YNIN, git ta cuttin.. stuffin 37's under 2.5" lift.

184K views 349 replies 87 participants last post by  mudb8 
#1 · (Edited)
DIY factory fender Highline, KWIT YNIN, git ta cuttin.. stuffin 37's under 2.5" lift.

homebrew DIY highlines

before......




after......




 
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#312 ·


The green one a few pages back has the canister under the abs tray.
 
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#318 ·
Rokmen highline coming together with some gen right parts.

 
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#326 ·
Lol!

The point in the begining was to gain the 3.25" for under 50 bucks.
 
#329 ·
I'm planning on raising my fenders and cutting the hood on my TJ to clear 33s with no lift. I installed a cowl intake already but I still need to relocate my washer bottle. I have a few questions for you since you have highlined quite a few TJs. What method is best for trimming the hood? I noticed you had the fenders on the silver TJ overlap the grille, would you recommend doing this instead of getting the fender to form to the grille? Do you have any tips for making the highline process easier? Thanks in advance!
 
#330 ·
Making it easy was the intent of this thread.
You cannot form the fenders without creasing and cracking paint... Ive tried! I started cutting the fender to match the contours for better cosmetics.

The hoods cut 3.25" higher. I make a mark then hold the scribe to the end of my tape and scribe the cut line like a sheetrocker cuts sheetrock.

Rigs with auto trannies, the washer bottles fit next to the brake booster as shown in several pics. Manual trans have the slave master in the way,

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Automotive fuel system
 
#331 ·
Fitting the abs with a factory fender highline.

Gas Wood Automotive tire Concrete Metal


Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper Kitchen appliance Stove


Wood Fish Seafood Metal Concrete


Car Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle
 
#338 ·
Mudb8. Great work! A few questions for you.

In early posts you mentioned that you had extended your wheelbase, then noted you reduced it. Looks like your stock now using all factory Track bar and spring mounts(?) How do you find the jeep works with stock wheelbase and 35's or 37's? Do you think any advantage to a longer wheelbase with this size of tire? I don't want to outboard only to find out In the long run I should have extended first. Considering utilizing the factory upper shock mounts and pushing the shock up an extra inch into the body for the first season as you have done in other threads.

Secondly your front modifications. How long are your front shocks after raising the tower and did you modify the lower mount on the axle to utilize the maximum travel of the shock? More details on this please..
 
#339 ·
Mudb8. Great work! A few questions for you.

In early posts you mentioned that you had extended your wheelbase, then noted you reduced it. Looks like your stock now using all factory Track bar and spring mounts(?) How do you find the jeep works with stock wheelbase and 35's or 37's? Do you think any advantage to a longer wheelbase with this size of tire? I don't want to outboard only to find out In the long run I should have extended first. Considering utilizing the factory upper shock mounts and pushing the shock up an extra inch into the body for the first season as you have done in other threads.

Secondly your front modifications. How long are your front shocks after raising the tower and did you modify the lower mount on the axle to utilize the maximum travel of the shock? More details on this please..
I have lengthened after a previous outboard, never shortened that i can recall. Messing around with 2-4" more wheelbase from stock isnt significant at all.

I use 27.5, 28.5 and 30" extended shock lengths up front with the front towers. Moving the front lower mounts can get complicated so ive resorted to keeping the stock lowers and matching the shock extended length to the free length of the spring to keep it seated. The collpsed length of most springs including the mc 3.5" fit in the front with factory bumpstop extension. The real gain over the normal bolt in parts is uptravel with the towers and highline fenders with 33" and larger tires.

Currie 4" and mc 3.5" yeild the biggest gains of any combination. The free length is 22.5" on both springs. A 26.5" extended length shock, in factory mounts, keeps them tight in the buckets at full droop. 27.5" lets them rattle but wont drop them out, both with the exception of ome n66L (2"), require 3.25" bumpstop extension to keep the shock from getting damaged. Raising the tower allows the use of a shock thats 18" collapsed and 30" extended on factory bumpstop extension.

At 4" of lift, the track bar length, when centered at ride height, causes enough axle shift on the left side to require a 1" bumpstop. I typically leave the axle center close to a half inch off to keep the springs and upper bumpstop pad from stacking up on the knuckle.

Without the towers. Using a 26.5" shock gives you the maximum down travel the currie/mc spring will allow without unseating but requires a 3.25" bumpstop if the shock's collapsed length is 16.5"
 
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#341 ·
Jeepwest Rear geometry correction
12" radflo in jeepwest towers.


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#344 ·
12" radfloshocks from fullstack in jeepwest front towers. Set up to match 1.25" bumpstop extension and match a 22.5" Currie free length spring.
Savvyoffroad truss


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#347 ·
Availability at the time, the Fox 12s have been backordered for a bit.

The Radflos are a few dollars more, but you can also see they come with the larger reservoir hose (like Fox 2.5s). I would put their quality as the same as Fox, they are also great shocks.

I also just did a set of Foxes with their new Low Speed Compression adjuster, it really is a good adjuster, unlike the old style that mainly adjusted the mid speed.
 
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