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09-05-2011, 05:16 PM
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#76
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Shreveport
Posts: 2,604
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Excellent write up. Only thing I would do different is connecting that ground to thicker metal so you can tighten it more. Grounded to sheet metal with s self tapping screw always eventually works loose at the worst time.
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09-05-2011, 05:42 PM
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#77
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Do it right or not at all
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 57,612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heath
Excellent write up. Only thing I would do different is connecting that ground to thicker metal so you can tighten it more. Grounded to sheet metal with s self tapping screw always eventually works loose at the worst time.
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I see your point though at that particular location, there is a double-layer of sheet metal which took some doing to get the self-tapping screw to thread into after drilling the hole. It is much more secure than most sheet metal screws I've used for electrical connections in the past.
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09-05-2011, 05:59 PM
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#78
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My Rat Bastard
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Indy
Posts: 6,711
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Excellent write-up! This is another project on my list as I intend to tow a small trailer. Thanks Jerry... good timing.
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Red Jeep Club #345
2006 TJ Sport
2004 KJ Limited
2012 John Deere D140
2013 Junior
Rat Bastard | rat bas-terd |
noun
Of doubtful chronological and geographical grounds; questionable ancestry; mixture of manufactures.
“The only thing that stops a bad guy with a gun is a good guy with a gun.”
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09-05-2011, 07:33 PM
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#79
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Shreveport
Posts: 2,604
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
I see your point though at that particular location, there is a double-layer of sheet metal which took some doing to get the self-tapping screw to thread into after drilling the hole. It is much more secure than most sheet metal screws I've used for electrical connections in the past.
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Cool
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09-06-2011, 04:23 PM
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#80
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ft Myers, Florida
Posts: 398
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Great write up! I had just ordered my cooler kit that mounts in front of the radiator, days before I saw this. But I'd be afraid of rocks and water killing the fan, ( I know I would forget to turn off the switch if I had one) since we get into quite a lot of water holes down here in SW Florida. Also I just serviced my trans at 31,000 miles, replaced my stock trans pan with the mopar larger version, I did have a few nice dents in the stock one. My new trans and oil pan skid is due in tomorrow. ( my trans pan is also 21" off the ground)
What do you think of the Derale Performance "Heat Sink" Transmission Coolers ? would it be overkill to add one of those in line along with the other coolers?
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Black Booty cruzzin' SW Florida for some treasured "Junk in the Trunk" ![/URL]
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09-06-2011, 07:51 PM
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#81
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 1,031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckelhead
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*copies down furiously. Nice setup.
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09-06-2011, 09:47 PM
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#82
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 134
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Going back to the question regarding the SWB vs LWB.
Will this cooling setup work on an 2005 Unlimited? Are the lines long enough to place the cooler/fan unit just behind the trans skid plate?
Also on my '05, the trans cooler radiator connections are flanged metal tubing, how do you remove the plastic connector into the radiator and connect it to the Derale hose?
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09-06-2011, 10:35 PM
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#83
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Read tech links in my sig
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parcours
Also on my '05, the trans cooler radiator connections are flanged metal tubing, how do you remove the plastic connector into the radiator and connect it to the Derale hose?
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the tranny hoses are a different design. you should be able to use brass junctions
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09-06-2011, 10:54 PM
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#84
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parcours
Going back to the question regarding the SWB vs LWB.
Will this cooling setup work on an 2005 Unlimited? Are the lines long enough to place the cooler/fan unit just behind the trans skid plate?
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The answer I got (Page 1?) was that while it should fit, there isn't the same protection because the control arm mount is farther back on the LJ.
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09-07-2011, 07:36 AM
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#85
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 1,176
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Now that I've seen this kit - http://www.quadratec.com/products/56112_3101.htm - I'm wondering what the pros and cons are compared to the Derale kit. I know you mentioned adding a power steering cooler Jerry, is there any reason you decided against this PSC kit, since it has both? For us LJ folks it would also solve the concerns around line length and protection for the Derale cooler...
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2006 Rubicon Unlimited Auto/Dual Tops
Mods: RB1 Navigation Radio, Cobra 75 CB, IPF E-code conversion, Rusty's steering box skid, Rusty's radiator skid
1988 Pontiac Fiero GT 5 speed
Work in progress...
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09-07-2011, 10:00 AM
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#86
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: La Verne, CA
Posts: 6,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by commodore_dude
Now that I've seen this kit - http://www.quadratec.com/products/56112_3101.htm - I'm wondering what the pros and cons are compared to the Derale kit. I know you mentioned adding a power steering cooler Jerry, is there any reason you decided against this PSC kit, since it has both? For us LJ folks it would also solve the concerns around line length and protection for the Derale cooler...
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No electric fans and adding the heat load to the coolant radiator, I would think. Perhaps, it would be fine with the 9/10 blade fan and clutch upgrade though.
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09-14-2011, 08:20 PM
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#87
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Read tech links in my sig
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,674
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FYI - for those plumbing up a 42RLE tranny cooler...
The hot side is the lower line on the drivers side of the tranny - it's connected to the passenger side of the radiator.
The cold side (return to tranny) is on the upper drivers side of the tranny - it's connected to the drivers side of the radiator.
This was pointed out to me by another member on here (with an 06), and I verified it on my 04.
This shows the tranny fluid which normally would be routed to the passenger side of the radiator - this is the hot output of the transmission.
So...my junk is actually plumbed wrong, and I've been advising people wrong for a few years  . dang it. and jerry, if i'm reading your write up correctly...you plumbed yours the same way I did, and we're both cooling the fluid before it enters the radiator, since the passenger side is not the return line, it is the inlet line.
The correct cooler plumbing should look like this:
so...might want to check how you plumbed your 42RLE cooler.
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09-14-2011, 08:47 PM
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#88
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: La Verne, CA
Posts: 6,940
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04
FYI - for those plumbing up a 42RLE tranny cooler...
The hot side is the lower line on the drivers side of the tranny - it's connected to the passenger side of the radiator.
The cold side (return to tranny) is on the upper drivers side of the tranny - it's connected to the drivers side of the radiator.
This was pointed out to me by another member on here (with an 06), and I verified it on my 04.
This shows the tranny fluid which normally would be routed to the passenger side of the radiator - this is the hot output of the transmission.
So...my junk is actually plumbed wrong, and I've been advising people wrong for a few years  . damn it. and jerry, if i'm reading your write up correctly...you plumbed yours the same way I did, and you're cooling the fluid before it enters the radiator, since the passenger side is not the return line, it is the inlet line.
The correct cooler plumbing should look like this:
so...might want to check how you plumbed your 42RLE cooler.
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Interesting! I determined the hot line with the "hand test" on my '05. I put the inductive temperature sensor on the "hot" line (bottom) and the aux cooler/filter on the "cold" line (top)... well, at least I think I did. I'll verify that when I get a chance.
Sent from DROID2
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[CENTER][B][COLOR="DarkRed"][SIZE="3"]______[/SIZE]
[SIZE="3"]|_____|[/SIZE]
[SIZE="2"](O|||||||O)[/SIZE]
[SIZE="1"]|______|[/SIZE][/B][/COLOR]
[SIZE="5"][][/SIZE]===[SIZE="5"]o[/SIZE]==[SIZE="5"][][/SIZE][/CENTER]
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09-14-2011, 08:53 PM
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#89
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Read tech links in my sig
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robncar
Interesting! I determined the hot line with the "hand test" on my '05. I put the inductive temperature sensor on the "hot" line (bottom) and the aux cooler/filter on the "cold" line (top)... well, at least I think I did. I'll verify that when I get a chance.
Sent from DROID2
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yup, i did the inductive method & used an IR temp gun before, and it gave me the wrong answer.
the diagram shown above is correct - upper hard line is back to tranny from cooler, lower hard line is hot out to cooler.
and the hard lines do some gymnastics getting up toward the crank pulley, so make sure you follow them closely to match up where they go to the radiator.
this also explains why my inline trans temp gauge doesn't see much above 160°F - it's reading the cold side back to the tranny  . I'll be replumbing my junk this weekend and reinstalling the temp sensor in the "true" hot side line.
For those looking for a cheaper junkyard alternative to this Derale...
Biggest tranny cooler I could find in the junkyard off a truck (12" x 12" or so) and a Denso pusher electric fan off a late 1990s Land Rover. The fan is only two wires - power and ground, and the mounting thickness is 2". Fab up some brackets to make it all fit and hook the fan to a relay & thermal switch or toggle switch, and you've got a low cost option. This Land Rover fan runs $330 ea in the aftermarket and ~$32 for two at the junkyard.
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09-14-2011, 09:20 PM
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#90
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Shreveport
Posts: 2,604
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It's a rover. It will most likely die one you at the worst possible time. j/k
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