Junkyard Roof Rack - Page 11 - JeepForum.com

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post #151 of 216 Old 04-21-2013, 07:11 PM
rbkelley89
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when i do this since i dont like how high the rails sit i am going to do what i did on my durango and get these rail mounts from defender roof racks and fab up a mount with u bolts to a cargo rack to get a clean flush looking rack. has anyone gotten these? http://www.defenderracks.com/products.asp?id=69


2001 orange tj 2.5L (113,000) 35" Km2 Black rims D lp 30 Front and d 44 rear with ARB 1"BD MML, 1.25" BL, 4" RC Lift, Flat tc Skid, Adj rear ca's (front soon) TW rear DS, Novak shifter cable, JB ss SYE, RE angled rear trackbar, 8,000Lb Mile marker, Custom front and rear (w/swing) bumpers. Homemade CAI. Lots more to come.
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post #152 of 216 Old 04-21-2013, 07:54 PM
jmmorgan82
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I found out that 1/4"-20 stainless panhead bolts work perfectly. I got the rack chopped down 11", mocked it up, and drilled the holes for it. I'll get the hardware and get it mounted up tomorrow, and I still need to strip it and paint it whenever I feel like doing so (in no hurry).
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post #153 of 216 Old 04-22-2013, 09:22 PM
jmmorgan82
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Got her thrown on today, minus the paint. Works great and held my 12' Ocean Kayak perfectly.

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post #154 of 216 Old 06-24-2013, 03:27 PM
JeepinJake75
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Heading to the junk yard this weekend. great thread!!!!

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post #155 of 216 Old 08-29-2013, 02:10 AM
Rican142
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Ok know it was prob already mentioned, but
1 how much weight does it hold
2 does it start flexing the hardtop with wait on it?

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post #156 of 216 Old 08-29-2013, 04:39 PM
toxikmo
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Mines fine , it holds 4 snowboards with out any problems
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post #157 of 216 Old 08-29-2013, 05:59 PM
Rican142
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Any vibrations from the top? My main thing is, I don't wanna e driving along, hit a bump, the roof flexes in and does a POP! When it does it, know what I mean?

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post #158 of 216 Old 11-11-2013, 09:31 PM
fordtech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordtech View Post
Question- Does anyone know what lays under those plasitc/fiberglass covers running side to side on LJ tops? I assume a metal strip, but have not tryied to find out yet, thought someone might already know. I am thinking of trying to hit one or both of those when I do my rack.

I have a Yakima Loadwarrior with after market XJ crossbars (like unistrut) I used on my XJ that I kept when I sold it. I had bike fork mounts on the outside of the rack. Would be handy to be able to reuse it and carry some reasonable loads or bikes up there when I have the hardtop on.

Now to find XJ rails.
Guys, this project never got done, but back on my mind now. Does anybody know what those cross pieces on LJ tops consist of?? I tried some heavy magnets, and no dice, so I assume it is not metal. If they are steel strips I will try to hit them plus a few more bolts, but not looking like it.

Thanks!

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post #159 of 216 Old 11-12-2013, 08:54 AM
-JD-
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordtech View Post
Guys, this project never got done, but back on my mind now. Does anybody know what those cross pieces on LJ tops consist of?? I tried some heavy magnets, and no dice, so I assume it is not metal. If they are steel strips I will try to hit them plus a few more bolts, but not looking like it.

Thanks!
I did this on my LJ then went to CO and back from the east coast carrying a Thule 700 pod and a cargo basket on Thule square bars & Tracker II towers attached to the long (68") XJ tracks. The pod was longer than the roof - with at least 200lbs or more on the racks - there was a good bit of heavy off-road banging when fully loaded which eventually led to a failure. The good news is that the weak point was the XJ tracks and I believe that that is preventable - which I'll address later.

Here is what I did ...

First, note that the hardtop is made up of several pieces that are bonded together. Look on the inside of the top. Along the left and the right edges of the top-horizontal section, there is a seam where the left/right vertical piece joins the top-horizontal piece. The side piece comes up and bends in with about 3/4"-1" of flat, horizontal section that is bonded to the top-horizontal piece. (The top-horizontal piece continues on the outside, curves down, and is then bonded to the side piece again, forming a longitudinal box channel - pretty strong) That horizontal, flat-bonded section on the side piece is where I located the tracks. That way they are right along the box channel, on a double thickness, and the fasteners actually hold the seam/bond together. It also give you almost the exact same spacing as on an XJ if you are using the factory cross-bars.

I used 1/4" (by 1" IIRC) Stainless, Hex-Socket-Head Cap screws with Nylock nuts inside. I backed the fasteners on the inside of the top with a full length of 3/4" x 3/16" steel.
I cut the steel to length then taped it the XJ track to mark the hole positions and then drilled the 1/4" clearance holes in the steel. The tricky part was that the steel had to be relieved where the 2 lateral cross pieces overlap the mounting area (to about 1/16" thickness - thinner stock would have to be fully cut out around it). Fortunately I have access to a milling machine so it was not hard - it doesn't need to be too precise so it could be done carefully with a grinder.
I then taped/clamped the steel to the inside of the roof and drilled up using the steel backer as a template. Notes: Take the top off to do this. The top is a fiber reinforced structure wear the proper safety equipment. Use a GOOD drill bit and go easy on the pressure to minimize breakout damage as you go through. I did not try it, but a brad-point bit might be a good choice to help minimize breakout - experimentation required.

The failure mode that I had was that the heads of the mounting screws pulled through the bottom of the XJ tracks. The problem is that the access holes on the top of the tracks for the mounting screws are not big enough for (significantly) larger screw heads or washers to be inserted to better spread the load. As I see it, two possibilities exist to get around this. I need to either fish washers into place at each hole from the ends (probably using glue or caulk to hold them in place for assembly) or I will fabricate a full length backer strip using 1/8" aluminum and insert it into the track. I will probably do the backer strip since it offers more strength IMO.

I've seen no evidence of damage to the top itself, despite the banging it took with the free floating track at the back - enough banging to crush the XJ track down about an 1/8" where the cross-bar foot was mounted.

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post #160 of 216 Old 11-13-2013, 07:32 PM
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put a ford rack on and then welded two atv carriers from harbor fraieght together to get it done.
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post #161 of 216 Old 11-13-2013, 09:09 PM
Rican142
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Why do u have a jk sticker on ur tj...(traitor)

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post #162 of 216 Old 11-24-2013, 04:26 PM
rbkelley89
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Fabbed the defender roof rack mounts I had on my durango to fit the explorer roof rack. Just had to bend two pieces on angle iron per mount and cut down to a total 1" width to slode into the rails. I like this much better than the roof rails. Still need to paint and get some stainless steel hardware but ima do that this summer when I paint the hardtop black








2001 orange tj 2.5L (113,000) 35" Km2 Black rims D lp 30 Front and d 44 rear with ARB 1"BD MML, 1.25" BL, 4" RC Lift, Flat tc Skid, Adj rear ca's (front soon) TW rear DS, Novak shifter cable, JB ss SYE, RE angled rear trackbar, 8,000Lb Mile marker, Custom front and rear (w/swing) bumpers. Homemade CAI. Lots more to come.
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post #163 of 216 Old 12-02-2013, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rican142 View Post
Why do u have a jk sticker on ur tj...(traitor)
can't spell down here in oregon,

Stands for

Southern Oregon Jeep Kulb

SOJK

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post #164 of 216 Old 12-02-2013, 09:09 PM
Rican142
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Suuure it is ;P lol

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post #165 of 216 Old 12-17-2013, 10:45 PM
horn34
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Does anyone know of an easily sourced salvage roof rack that will fit a 2001 TJ without cutting? I don't mind cutting, but I'd rather grab one off a minivan/subaru/whatever that fits with nod mods. None of the salvage yards in Austin that I know of let you pick and pull. You have to call and tell them the year/model/make of the part you want.
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