Johnny Joints vs. Metal Cloak Duroflex Joint - Page 38 - JeepForum.com

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post #556 of 785 Old 02-05-2013, 12:43 PM
geiman
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Originally Posted by gmbnt42 View Post
regardless, this isn't even a concern.
ftfy

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post #557 of 785 Old 02-05-2013, 12:56 PM
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I've got them. I won't have time to install until Thursday or so. It's not exactly a quick process.

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post #558 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 10:52 AM
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Is it possible to mount a shock to a control arm with the MC joints at both ends? I know that it is not if you run JJs on both ends due to the design of the JJ. The control arm would just flop around.

So would the control arm with the MC joints not flop around with a shock mounted to it?

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post #559 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
I've got them. I won't have time to install until Thursday or so. It's not exactly a quick process.
Well, I bit the bullit, ordered up a set of MC SA's............will probably run them just till the end of summer though, then resell them....hopefully my LA kit by then is complete.

Going to be running ORI STX 12" struts front and back as well. Going to be pulling the trigger on those next week.
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post #560 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
Is it possible to mount a shock to a control arm with the MC joints at both ends? I know that it is not if you run JJs on both ends due to the design of the JJ. The control arm would just flop around.

So would the control arm with the MC joints not flop around with a shock mounted to it?
This has me so confused.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
I like the arms, they are a good solution, but they really aren't worth the effort for the average person and you already see the BS that goes on over bushings VS JJ's, the crap that would go on over J arms would be epic.
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post #561 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
Well, I bit the bullit, ordered up a set of MC SA's............will probably run them just till the end of summer though, then resell them....hopefully my LA kit by then is complete.

Going to be running ORI STX 12" struts front and back as well. Going to be pulling the trigger on those next week.
How do you plan on fitting ORI's in the rear? Hell, even the front will be an exercise. I feel like you're doing things without knowing how to do them and are not thinking about the details.

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post #562 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 11:19 AM
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how do you plan on fitting ori's in the rear? Hell, even the front will be an exercise. I feel like you're talking about doing things without knowing how to do them and are not thinking about the details.
fify
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post #563 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 11:33 AM
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How do you plan on fitting ORI's in the rear? Hell, even the front will be an exercise. I feel like you're doing things without knowing how to do them and are not thinking about the details.
Your kidding right? Outboarding them. Plenty of room. I run MT CLassic III 15x7" rims with roughly 3.5" BSing on 10.5" wide tires........will be using these brackets from TMR: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/inde...oducts_id=1093 and these: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/inde...oducts_id=1094 Will be able to cut off the spring perches/shock buckets front/rear and F/R axle shock mounts. Weld on tabs to the top of the axle tubes for the bottom strut mounts. Tons of room to do this.

When you dont have to run seperate springs, shocks, bumpstops, and the large pads/buckets required you gain ALOT of mounting options.
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post #564 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 11:34 AM
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easy guys, GBMNT is never wrong
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post #565 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 11:41 AM
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Your kidding right?
Not one bit. 2" shock bodies fit fine with the stock axles and 3-4" BS. The ORI's are 3.25" in diameter, that's massive. They wont' fit as easy as you're thinking. When you get around to articulating the axle, you'll see that. You can set that tower back into the frame rail as far as you can and you'll still have to balance the body hitting the frame at full droop and the tire at full tuck. I'm not saying it's not doable but even with little backspacing and frenched towers, you'll have a tough time finding a route outside of running them through the tub. If you can do that, you'll be the first I've seen. And that's not not even to mention the fact that I highly doubt you need them.

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post #566 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 11:42 AM
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easy guys, GBMNT is never wrong
Rarely.
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post #567 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 11:47 AM
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Not one bit. 2" shock bodies fit fine with the stock axles and 3-4" BS. The ORI's are 3.25" in diameter, that's massive. They wont' fit as easy as you're thinking. When you get around to articulating the axle, you'll see that. You can set that tower back into the frame rail as far as you can and you'll still have to balance the body hitting the frame at full droop and the tire at full tuck. I'm not saying it's not doable but even with little backspacing and frenched towers, you'll have a tough time finding a route outside of running them through the tub. And that's not not even to mention the fact that I highly doubt you need them.
Yes I am aware of their diameter. Its basically no different than fitting a coilover. Doing a quick mockup, not worried about full tuck #'s or tire clearance. Full droop looks like there won't be much issue either.

My only debate is going with a 10" or 12" travel setup. Ill be starting off on SA's but will be running a LA setup by next fall. The front's will be a snap. And actually save me some weight in the process. The rear's won't be too difficult either. Quite a few people have outboarded the rears without clearance issues.

As for whether or not I need them. They simplify everything. No need for bumpstops, seperate coil/shock mounts.........which means uptravel concerns are virtually elimiated due to things like coil bind height, mount constraints etc......since new mounts are being installed, it allows me to maxmise all the available uptravel necessary. It also now solves the front tracbar hitting the diff cover on uptravel too, since I can now locate that in double sheer alignment up tighter to the OUTSIDE of the frame rail, instead of down lower on the inside. See where Im going with this?

Cost also,....these also end up being a cheaper solution. No bumpstop kit, sperate coils, shocks needed. And these I think have a slightly smaller OD vs. the 6paks............those were in reality going to run me $700 a corner including bumpstop kit. These Im under $600.
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post #568 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Imped
I've got them. I won't have time to install until Thursday or so. It's not exactly a quick process.
:thumbs up:
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post #569 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 11:52 AM
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Rarely.
It's not the things you don't know that will get you into the most trouble in life. It's the things you know for sure that end up being wrong. Like your skinny tire theories and slipping the clutch is the same as a torque converter.
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post #570 of 785 Old 02-06-2013, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post

As for whether or not I need them. They simplify everything. No need for bumpstops, seperate coil/shock mounts.........which means uptravel concerns are virtually elimiated due to things like coil bind height, mount constraints etc......since new mounts are being installed, it allows me to maxmise all the available uptravel necessary. It also now solves the front tracbar hitting the diff cover on uptravel too, since I can now locate that in double sheer alignment up tighter to the OUTSIDE of the frame rail, instead of down lower on the inside. See where Im going with this?

Cost also,....these also end up being a cheaper solution. No bumpstop kit, sperate coils, shocks needed. And these I think have a slightly smaller OD vs. the 6paks............those were in reality going to run me $700 a corner including bumpstop kit. These Im under $600.
Believe me, I've covered all of those issues and more through my thought process and I still run shocks and coils and even built a frame around them....I discovered ORI's back in 09. They simplify some things but complicate others, as you'll see. They won't fit as easily as you are thinking, I promise. If you want to run them, your first concern should be your axle width.

Anyway, that's completely OT from this thread. My bad.

OlllllllO
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