JK Dana 44 axles under a TJ or LJ - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 248 Old 08-07-2013, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
RDaniel2405
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JK Dana 44 axles under a TJ or LJ

I wanted to start a thread to collect any or all info, tips, and install pics on swapping JK axles into a TJ or LJ. Mainly because I want to do it to my jeep when I get back from Afghanistan ( if my wife lets me ) and maybe someone else out there is looking for information as well. I know there are a few people on here that have done it (Bennettj13, Hendrix, MrBlaine,B2carpen,Lo2aY) , but it’s not exactly easy to find info and/or pictures of the install process.

I have read online that some people have done front and rear JK axle swaps for $2000 - $3000.

Please correct me if I’m wrong, but this is all I know right now about JK axles compared to TJ axles.
- The JK axle is wider appx 5in wider
- An Unlimited JK weighs over 1000lbs more than a standard TJ, so a TJ may or may not need that much reinforcing compared to a fully loaded JK.
- JK D44 has a much stronger ring and pinion compared to a TJ D44
- The front JK D44 axle has higher pinion VS the standard LP TJ axles.
- Steering components and knuckles are beefier and stronger.
- The stock JK Rubicon axles are 32 spline, the JK non-rubi axles are 30 spline vs the 30 spline TJ Rubi axles. Or even the 27 spline D35 and D30 TJ axles.
- Larger brake components (rotors, calipers, pads) available at any parts store. Added disc brake upgrade with OEM parts if going from TJ35 to JK44

To start off, what would be better?
- An axle truss like the ones from TnT Customs, or just an axle bracket kit from Rubicon Express or Other Company?
-Is an axle truss overkill and not necessary, or definitely worth the money?
-Should you sleeve the axles? Inner or outer sleeves? Both?...

Thanks in advance for any information.


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post #2 of 248 Old 08-07-2013, 11:31 PM
flnbar
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subcribed for info. I'm Looking at axle swaps for when I return from deployment as well. haha.


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post #3 of 248 Old 08-08-2013, 12:30 AM
tha_Toad
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I got 8 more months of planning for this deployment. I'm curious as well about the JK axle swaps. I need to get rid of the D30 i still have up front lol.

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post #4 of 248 Old 08-14-2013, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
RDaniel2405
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Bump! No one has any install tips, tricks, or pics of JK axle install on a TJ/LJ??

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post #5 of 248 Old 08-14-2013, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDaniel2405 View Post
I wanted to start a thread to collect any or all info, tips, and install pics on swapping JK axles into a TJ or LJ. Mainly because I want to do it to my jeep when I get back from Afghanistan ( if my wife lets me ) and maybe someone else out there is looking for information as well. I know there are a few people on here that have done it (Bennettj13, Hendrix, MrBlaine,B2carpen,Lo1aY) , but itís not exactly easy to find info and/or pictures of the install process.

I have read online that some people have done front and rear JK axle swaps for $2000 - $3000.

Please correct me if Iím wrong, but this is all I know right now about JK axles compared to TJ axles.
- The JK axle is wider appx 5in wider
- An Unlimited JK weighs over 1000lbs more than a standard TJ, so a TJ may or may not need that much reinforcing compared to a fully loaded JK.
- JK D44 has a much stronger ring and pinion compared to a TJ D44
- The front JK D44 axle has higher pinion VS the standard LP TJ axles.
- Steering components and knuckles are beefier and stronger.
- The stock JK Rubicon axles are 32 spline, the JK non-rubi axles are 30 spline vs the 30 spline TJ Rubi axles. Or even the 27 spline D35 and D30 TJ axles.
- Larger brake components (rotors, calipers, pads) available at any parts store. Added disc brake upgrade with OEM parts if going from TJ35 to JK44

To start off, what would be better?
- An axle truss like the ones from TnT Customs, or just an axle bracket kit from Rubicon Express or Other Company?
-Is an axle truss overkill and not necessary, or definitely worth the money?
-Should you sleeve the axles? Inner or outer sleeves? Both?...

Thanks in advance for any information.
All JK outers are 32 spline.

Axle truss is never over kill but usually if you are upgrading to axles like these you plan on bigger tires and harder wheeling so yes I'd run an axle truss.

Wouldn't need to sleeve and axle but it all depends on tires size and how you drive.

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post #6 of 248 Old 08-14-2013, 10:18 AM
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Also with them being wider. It's cheaper to start out with a ford HP 44 (which is 3/4 ton and considered better then these 44's but a lot will debate this) and upgrade all components on this. I'm assuming with a JK 44 you'll just remove all brackets, throw on a trust (I would if you wheel hard) put on new brackets, new steering and roll with the factory gearing and lockers.

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post #7 of 248 Old 08-14-2013, 12:52 PM
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Electric lockers in 06 LJ

Subscribed for info.

Been thinking of this swap myself... to run JK wheels with 35x12.50 tires without spacers.


Also to add.... how to make the electric lockers work with TJ/LJ Rubicon factory switch ?

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post #8 of 248 Old 08-16-2013, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies! Now we are getting somewhere.
To start off, I considered doing the JK axle swap just for 2 reasons.

-You can get these axles online and at salvage yards for a decent price.
-As for maintenance, you can easliy get parts at a local parts store and at a lower price that 1ton axle parts.

I’m not a rock crawling guy, so I’m going for more of the expedition style vehicle, and maybe tow a small tent or teardrop trailer, 34’’- 35’’ max tire size and I already have JK wheels. I see on Lo1aY’s LJ build he used TnT custom trusses. That seemed like a nice option compared to a whole axle bracket kit. I just didn’t know if trusses were unnecessary considering a TJ is about 1000lbs less than a JK Unlimited. Also I would not have to run wheel spacers to prevent tires rubbing on the rear springs.

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post #9 of 248 Old 08-16-2013, 05:42 AM
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Some parts are stronger than TJ axles but your still going to have the same weak hubs and ball joints. If your gonna spend all that money and dont mind the wide WMS your better off doing a HP44/60. Also look into waggy swaps. May be a little harder to find. Took me forever to find my waggy 44 but I live in the rust belt. Out where u are should be a lot easier. With a HP44 or 60 you will also have the option of manual hubs which are a real nice feature for strength and relieving some stress on your drive line when ure not on the trail.

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post #10 of 248 Old 08-17-2013, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hulud44 View Post
Some parts are stronger than TJ axles but your still going to have the same weak hubs and ball joints. If your gonna spend all that money and dont mind the wide WMS your better off doing a HP44/60. Also look into waggy swaps. May be a little harder to find. Took me forever to find my waggy 44 but I live in the rust belt. Out where u are should be a lot easier. With a HP44 or 60 you will also have the option of manual hubs which are a real nice feature for strength and relieving some stress on your drive line when ure not on the trail.
Thatís good to know, I was unaware that JK's have poor ball joints. I would have guessed the JK used better joints. I know some people have had poor luck with their TJ's and part store replacement ball joints.

You have a waggy 44 in the front, what's the width WMS-WMS of that axle?

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post #11 of 248 Old 08-17-2013, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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On a added note, you can get a set of TnT Customs axles trussed (same setup as Lo1aY used on his LJ build) for under $1000 without shipping. So if I can get a decent priced set of used JK axles, I can do this for around $3000 doing the labor and welding myself. About the same price as a G2 rear D44 with disc brakes + shipping.

At one time I was considering front and rear G2 axles for my jeep. I would need front axle, rear axle, TJ bolt pattern wheels, and other misc. parts. That would be easily over $6000.

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post #12 of 248 Old 08-17-2013, 06:11 PM
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I would do a Ford hp44 long before a JK 44. They are similar strength-wise but the ford axle is much cheaper. You can even find them already built for a decent price if you are patient. I bought my Ford HP44 for $900, and it had 5.13 gears, ARB air locker, chromolly shafts, and high steer. They are 65" wms to wms, but with proper backspacing on your rims you can be back to near TJ width.
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post #13 of 248 Old 08-17-2013, 07:36 PM
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The main advantage of the jk 44 is that it's a new gen 44 and has a ring gear and pinion that are only a c-hair smaller than a d60's. Get a wider stance, 60 strength if built right and good ground clearance....yea I'm in. But I'm going one step further. I'm gonna put Ried 60 inner and outer c's on it so I get the 1ton outer strength and no ball joints. It's not going to be cheap but its what I want and I should be ale to get the housing cheap.

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post #14 of 248 Old 08-17-2013, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyder05 View Post
The main advantage of the jk 44 is that it's a new gen 44 and has a ring gear and pinion that are only a c-hair smaller than a d60's. Get a wider stance, 60 strength if built right and good ground clearance....yea I'm in. But I'm going one step further. I'm gonna put Ried 60 inner and outer c's on it so I get the 1ton outer strength and no ball joints. It's not going to be cheap but its what I want and I should be ale to get the housing cheap.
You are aware that it is only the rear JK 44 that has the 8.9" ring gear right? The front JK 44 has the same 8.5" ring gear as any other 44.
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post #15 of 248 Old 08-17-2013, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyder05
The main advantage of the jk 44 is that it's a new gen 44 and has a ring gear and pinion that are only a c-hair "BIGGER"than a "d30's"

Fixed it for ya


They are not even close to having the same size inner c's as a 60
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