Hey I'm planning my build on my TJ it is a 2000 Wrangler Sport, just bought it completely stock and I want to plan my build instead of just going at it, I really like the look of the 37s with only 4 inch lift, i know it doesn't get much clearance but I want it more for the looks, and later on I'll put in more money when I want to start taking it off roading, just wanted to know what axle will be good to run 37s on 4 inch suspension lift, it's only for the road, but wanted to know what you guys think if a different upgraded axle is really really needed since it's just for the road
What Axle do you currently have in the rear? If its on road only you could probably just get away with the D30 up front, just don't expect to lock that front diff and go rock crawling. If you have the Dana 44 in the rear from the factory you should be good with that for the highway use If you have the 35 out back I would get rid of that ASAP. Grab a ford 8.8 and you should be good to go in the rear. With 37s, i would also tell you to re gear as your stock gearing will be miserable.
You are right.
bigger axles and longer wheelbase are the way to go
for 37s, don't build axles.
bone stock Dana 60s are the way.
If U Can Afford To Build axles right.
build 60s, and buy 4ds!
But my last tj, the p.o. shoved 1/2 ton ford axles under, with 37" swamped ssr's.
65" width, but close to stock wheelbase. It was pretty tall though.
I think the height and width, kinda cancelled each other out.
It looked real good.
Off road and on road performance were not good!
It was flat out dangerous, but looked good.
JeepTj-
I can tell you from firsthand experience, it doesn't work very well. I have 37's on a 4" lift, stock wheelbase. You will need more than you listed unless you are ok with going nuts with a grinder. I have a 1.25bl and metal cloak fenders. I don't see it being possible to fit the tires without fenders (even if the suspension was unable to move at all).
Other items discovered- adjustable uppers arms, especially in the rear, angles are horrific. Sye, driveshaft, re-gear f/r, new steering/tie rod, adjustable track bar, extended brake lines, I think that was the first bout, the rest of the stuff was needed to fit the new axles.
This is 3" front 2" rear and 37s. I agree with the others, do it right... don't do it for "looks". Running 37s isn't cheap, and dangerous as all get out if you're a cheap @##
2000 TJ
3.5" metalcloak short arm lift w/ 6pack shocks (no body lift)
MC overlines with 4" flare
37" Mickey Thompson MTZ
Currie HD tie rod/drag link
Dynatrac Pro Rock 60 F/R - Width extended to 63.75" WMS/WMS - Stock WB needs hi pinion axles
ARB F/R, regeared to 4.88
Short shaft kit/np231
AX15 terminator
UCF no body lift skid plate
Drove 3 hours to AOAA, wheeled the black trails for 2 days, reconnected sway bars, drove home. No issues. Sits very low and handles better than stock.
It took a lot of planning and work to make it like this. I wouldn't trust too many stock axle/steering components to reliably handle 37's, even for a daily driver.
I run 37s on a stock wheelbase with 3.5 suspension lift and inch body. Prorock 44 up front, 44 rear beefed up, upgraded brakes, custom steering with hydro assist.
And remember there are different options for settings on the AR. I run mine on next to the last setting and daily drive it. My Fox 2.0 RRs are valved a little firm though so that's definitely part of the equation.
Lee, that rig is looking great. How has the Savvy mid arm been doing for you? Also, I replied to your email about the carnage canyon pics when you were out here...no response...?
Hey Mike. Made it to CO this year, but no Jeep. Next summer for sure though.
Mid arm has performed even better than I had hoped. I still want to outboard the rear, but everything else has been flawless. And yes, new winch finally. No more melted wires or cooked solenoids. Ill check the email, thanks Mike
I'll poke my head in here and thank Blaine for inventing the dual-rate sway bar. I run one, and it is a thing of beauty. I've said many times that it is one of the best mods I've ever made to the rig. I believe that the cost is what puts many people off, and to the point above perhaps that is the reason it has not taken off.
I add this here because it is relevant to the discussion of the AR on the street. In the soft setting, the dual-rate is about the equivalent of the AR. I can tell you from personal experience that there is a night and day difference when you engage the "street" setting. Therefore, since throwing the lever is all you need to do to essentially compare the AR to a stiffer (and stiffer than stock, I believe) sway bar, it is very easy to gage the difference. To me, riding on the soft setting on the street - the equivalent of the AR - is a bit scary in comparison. I can easily understand why some would be reluctant to run the AR on the street.
Might as well just stick with the stock steering, the Currie will bend just as easily if hit on a trail obstacle.
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