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Unread 06-25-2012, 10:59 AM   #1
clyners
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Jeep Coolant

I just replaced the water pump on my 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited this weekend at 80,000 miles. Seems kinda quick to me. When I drained the radiator on my Jeep, the coolant was red. I noticed it was leaking red coolant but since I have a manual I just assumed that the coolant was red and I was right.

Now the question.

I got the new pump from AutoZone. I asked about the coolant but they didn't have anything special listed about it. I just replaced the pump and put in old green coolant. Do i need to change back to the red?

What is everyone's experience.

Just as a side note: I noticed that the impellar on the pump is plastic. Any thoughts?

Clyners

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Unread 06-25-2012, 11:12 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clyners View Post
I just replaced the pump and put in old green coolant. Do i need to change back to the red?

What is everyone's experience.

You need to dump that coolant and flush the system thoroughly. OAT (what you used) and HOAT (what you should use) are not the same at all. The OAT is not compatible with our seals and other internals. Use only the correct Mopar fluid (dealer sourced and expensive) or Zerex G-05 (most auto parts retailers and more $ than green, but less than Mopar.
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Unread 06-25-2012, 11:14 AM   #3
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Here is what I would do. Either change it over fully to green by flushing it with water or change it back to the red by flushing it with water. The red mopar is an ethylene glycol mix and may not do well mixed with green. I would just flush with water and stick with green. The red can turn into muck if its exposed to to much air.
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Unread 06-25-2012, 11:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
You need to dump that coolant and flush the system thoroughly. OAT (what you used) and HOAT (what you should use) are not the same at all. The OAT is not compatible with our seals and other internals. Use only the correct Mopar fluid (dealer sourced and expensive) or Zerex G-05 (most auto parts retailers and more $ than green, but less than Mopar.
X2, but that pump from Autozone will crap out soon so you could wait. Do your self a favor and get an OEM pump and use the correct coolant.
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Unread 06-25-2012, 11:32 AM   #5
clyners
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stock pump

I forgot to say that the stock pump impeller is plastic too. They looked exactly the same. The bearing just went out.

What happens if you mix the red and green together? Does anyone have any experience with it?

The red wasn't that great if I had to replace the pump at 80,000 miles.

My 1997 had 125,000 on it before the pump went.

Thanks.
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Unread 06-25-2012, 11:44 AM   #6
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Since I'm too lazy to retype the whole thing yet not so lazy that I can't do a simple Google seach, I'll just copy an paste what you see below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by 09Hemi on JeepsUnlimited.com
Ok this subject has been covered several times on this board if someone wanted to do a search............ but let's go over it one more time for the badly uninformed.


There are three different types of ethylene gycol coolant;

1) IAT ~ Inorganic Acid Technology type coolant ~ this is the traditional "green" formula coolant. This is the stuff that General Motors used until 1996, Chrysler used until 2001, and Ford used until 2002 in its trucks and 2003 in its passenger cars. This is the orginal "green Prestone" we all remember even though Prestone hasn't made this stuff in years! It is available from other manufacturers such as Peak and from NAPA, (their house brand is made by Peak) The green additive package contains phosphate and silicates, and provides good protection for cast iron and aluminum engine parts as well as copper/brass radiators in older vehicles and aluminum radiators in newer vehicles. The corrosion fighting chemicals are fast acting but wear out after two or three years or 36K miles of average use so original "green" IAT type coolants need to be changed out every year or two to minimize the risk of corrosion damage. The problem with "old type" IAT coolants is that the high levels of silicates in them eventually drop out of solution leading to loss of corrosion protection and cooling system problems.

2)OAT ~ Organic Acid Technology type coolant ~ is usually dyed orange to distinguish it from other types of coolant. In 1996 GM began a new extended life coolant call "Dex-Cool". This coolant contains a totally different type of additive package called organic acid technology (OAT). The OAT corrosion inhibitors are slower acting and provide protection over a longer period of time. OAT coolants typically have a service life of up to five years or 150K miles, making coolant changes less frequent, but still necessary.
OAT corrosion inhibitors provide excellent long term protection for aluminum or cast iron but may not be the best choice for older cooling systems that have copper/brass radiators or heater cores.
There have been many problems documented with this type of coolant. Other manufacturers that currently use OAT type coolant as factory fill include 1996 and up Audi, Jauguar, Porche, Volkswagen and Land Rover, 2001 and newer Saab, 1996 and newer Toyota, Nissan, Honda and Mazda.
Many GM vehicles that this coolant was spec'd for developed problems with engine cooling passage gaskets deteriorating to the point of failure, leading to expensive engine repairs. More importantly OAT type coolants have been found to form sludge deposits in engines that have open air, non-pressurized coolant overflow bottles as found in all Jeep WJ Grand Cherokees! It has been shown that Dex-Cool and its clones form heavy sludge deposits in the open to the atmosphere coolant recovery bottles of many vehicles, these sludge deposits are then sucked into the radiator and engine as normal coolant heating and cooling cycles occur. Once this has happened, it may be impossible to fully remove these deposits from your radiator or engine! Dex-Cool also contains a known plasticizer in it's corrosion inhibitor package. That means some cooling system components and seals may eventually fail after prolonged contact with Dex-Cool. The end tanks found in all WJ radiators are made of plastic and will weaken and eventually fail with prolonged contact to Dex-Cool and it's clones. Other cooling system components may or may not be compatible with OAT type Dex-Cool...... do you know how long they might last exposed to it??

Virtually all Prestone coolant products are OAT type coolants and should not be used in 2001 and newer Mopar vehicles. This includes Prestone Any/Make Model, it is a Dex-Cool clone, read the label! Don't use it!

This doesn't make OAT type coolants necessarily bad, in a perfectly maintained cooling system, seviced every year or two not every five years (with a closed, pressurized coolant recovery bottle) they work just fine! These OAT type coolants are just a bad choice for our open air coolant recovery bottle WJ's, especially since there is a better alternative developed by Mercedes and adopted by Mopar in 2001.......... HOAT type coolant!!

3) HOAT Hybrid Organic Acid Technology coolant ~ this type coolant is usually dyed yellow, but may also be dyed orange, or red (Orange is the way Mopar dyes it!). HOAT type coolants are currently used as factory fill by Ford, Chrysler, Mercedes, BMW and Volvo. This coolant has been in use by Mercedes for almost 20 years with excellent results. It was first developed for long haul, over the road, truckers who wanted a coolant that could be used safely for hundreds of thousands of miles! The additive package in HOAT type coolants contains small amounts of silicates for added aluminum component corrosion protection. The small amount of silicate found in a HOAT type coolant is significantly less than found in traditional "green" IAT coolant, and not likely to fall out of solution forming the small green globs of snot we all remember when using traditional green Prestone! Most of the coolants in this catagory also meet European "GO5" specs for hybrid extended life coolant. Thats why sometimes HOAT type coolant is also called GO5. The service life for HOAT is also five years or 150K miles.

This modern technology coolant is spec'd by Chrysler for every vehicle manufactured since 2001. It has all of the benefits of a modern technology long life coolant with non of the downside or problems associated with OAT or Dex-Cool type coolants. It is the best choice for coolant in every WJ. Period!! Case Closed!!


Now on to "universal coolants" such as Prestone Any/Make Model and the rest that claim to be good for "everything" ~ Complete BS!! The problem with "universal coolants" is that a single formula cannot meet the conflicting OEM specs for IAT, OAT, and HOAT type coolants. If a universal coolant contains silicates, it does not meet the OEM OAT specification. If it contains no silicates, it can't meet the OEM HOAT specification. And if it contains phosphates or inorganic acid technology ingredients it cannot meet the OEM OAT or HOAT specs. Universal coolants are usually OAT or sometimes HOAT formulas and can be used to top off traditional IAT type coolants but then will not have the longer service life of a modern type coolant. If you do this the coolant should be changed annually.

It is a very, very bad idea to mix OAT type (Dex-Cool or any Prestone "Universal" product) with HOAT type coolant. Sludge will form,and it will be near impossible to get it all out of your engine and radiator!
This is what DexCool does...
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[QUOTE=Ron Paul]“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
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Unread 06-25-2012, 12:08 PM   #7
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x2 on what flying_bosun said. You need to use HOAT coolant, and Zerex GO5 is a good choice (cheapest at NAPA, around here at least)
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Unread 06-25-2012, 02:00 PM   #8
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Thanks flying bosun.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 12:06 AM   #9
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Ok, I will admit that I stand corrected and after looking into this whole thing a bit more I've learned more than I care to know about coolants. Long story short is that what Prestone has done is put a product on the shelf that is pretty much a wolf in sheep's clothing so to speak. The Prestone label reads that it 'meets property and performance specifications for the MS-9769. However, what they actually mean is that "Hey! Not really what you need but it will work". Their stuff is only "compatible" with Chrysler specifications even though they make most people think that they have made the right choice (including myself).

Guess who's system is getting flushed in the next day or so! Yep, this guy! If anyone wants to read some of the stuff I came across and is willing to sort through and learn stuff about stuff you don't know much about like I did then I can shoot you some links.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 12:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coop02x
Ok, I will admit that I stand corrected and after looking into this whole thing a bit more I've learned more than I care to know about coolants...If anyone wants to read some of the stuff I came across and is willing to sort through and learn stuff about stuff you don't know much about like I did then I can shoot you some links.
Post em all. It's one of those things worthwhile..
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[QUOTE=Ron Paul]“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul[/QUOTE]

[CENTER][SIZE="5"]"Did [I]you[/I] exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"[/SIZE][/CENTER]
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Unread 06-26-2012, 01:04 AM   #11
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Best link for doing ENTIRE coolant flush? Tia.

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Unread 06-26-2012, 02:27 AM   #12
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I havent used HOAT since my original radiator crapped itself 5 years ago. it was less than a year old. have sinc been using green Castrol anti freeze/anti boil general purpose ethylene glycol based coolant mixed with demin water 50/50
all I do is change it out every 12 months and give it a good flush. never had an overheat problem even in 120 deg F outside temperatures.
if you go from HOAT to something else DO flush well before refilling with new fluid otherwise it will turn to snot

and the impellor is meant to be plastic
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