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Unread 09-01-2005, 09:32 AM   #31
KY_BOB
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I agree. I don't see how that will help with a vibe. I followed your last thread and figured you had resolved the issue by now.

Good luck. I know it feels like your throwing good money after bad and .

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Unread 09-01-2005, 09:44 AM   #32
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Unadulterated Stubborness is keeping me in this at this point.
If I was smart, I'd pull the whole shootin match and go back to stock.
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Unread 09-01-2005, 10:58 AM   #33
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Softer spring = less lift and possibly less angles which could eliminate vibes but i doubt it.
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Unread 09-01-2005, 11:23 AM   #34
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Those were his thoughts. Not only less lift but less lift where I probably don't need it right now.
I have a soft top and a light rear bumper. The HD spring/shock has my rear higher than my front and riding like a buck board.

I have mentioned this in other posts so I will reiterate here. When ordering the OME suspension (a good product) take advantage of the ability to "dial in" the spring rate and shock dampening to your specific need based on weight of mods.
It's one of the advantages of the OME product.
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Unread 09-01-2005, 01:21 PM   #35
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very interesting. It's kinda funny that we both have something in common other than the same vibe. My jeep's rear is about 2" higher than the front. It does look like a hot rod in some ways.......we both have a high as@ and we both have vibes....hmm...

I was shipped skyjacker's 2.5" springs for Hard Top models for some reason (from 4wheelparts). I specifically stated that i had a softop so maybe they didn't carry the softtop springs. I'll have to give them a call. I have a winch up front and that probably plays a role in the front being lower. But i don't know how this can cause the vibe since i have a sye cv/ds and got the pinion dialed in.

hmm...we might be getting somewhere...
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Unread 09-01-2005, 02:33 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconSS
The problem I'm having is, One person will say get a drive shaft or a MML, or Adj upper CA's, TC drop, etc

It's frustrating that there isn't a clear step1 - step 4 process to follow with this dilema.
Step 1 taking out the drop and using washers to allow for more movement/adjustments if that is what the case is. Just use all 4 corners for adjustment then fill in the other 2 when you get it should this work.

Since its less work I would start with step 2 to eliminate and or isolate the front or rear as the issue.

Step 2 remove the front DS to see if that is the issue (bent front DS from hanging on skid). If it still exists reinstall and do step 3.
Step 3 remove the rear ds to see if your vibe goes away. If it does you know its in the rear.
Step 4 if you have not changed to washers for adjustment then I would suggest the BMML and then remove drop to see if any vibe exists. If there are start adding washers to adjust drop.
Step 5 adj uppers
Step 6 CV shaft
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Unread 09-01-2005, 02:37 PM   #37
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step 7: buy a new jeep
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Unread 09-01-2005, 07:26 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddeprived
step 7: buy a new jeep
hehehehe
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Unread 09-01-2005, 07:53 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddeprived
Same problem here. Couldn't explain it any better. Everything checks out fine. Drove with front DS and with rear DS and the vibe was still there. DAM#
ok, you're #2 in the one-of-a-kind jeep club

sorry, couldn't resist

really, replace things or remove them back to stock, 1 at a time then test
that way it gets isolated..

HTH, good luck
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Unread 09-01-2005, 10:44 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconSS
Your post was very informative and well thought out. Thank you.
I had just gotten back from an experiment.

I noted the location of my four center TC bolts. I then loosened the 4 TC bolts and all 6 skid plate bolts.
I drove up the road and came back just to let things "adjust"
When I got back all 4 TC bolts were all the way forward in the slots.
Tightened everything back up and went back out. Short ride (I'll know better in the morning) but it felt as though the vibes had diminished.
I now wonder if I am on to something and possibly lengthening those 4 slots would allow the Drive train to situate itself completely.

Thoughts?
SS, I had the same problem. I ended up puting the BMML in and after that, the four bolts were all the way forward. I took my TC drop out, and no vibes. Well thats not true, I still have a very slight wobble when taking off, but even that has gone to about nothing after driving it for a few weeks. I have been on vacation this week and just got home and drove her around the block and I had no vibes at all. Try the BL and BMML that might just cure it.
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Unread 09-02-2005, 11:18 AM   #41
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If we a sye and cv ds, would a mml do anything at all?
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Unread 09-02-2005, 12:46 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddeprived
If we a sye and cv ds, would a mml do anything at all?
Typically you would not have to use one with cv/sye kit
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Unread 09-02-2005, 01:07 PM   #43
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My 2 cents time.

Ok adjustable rear control arms are somewhat useless if you do not have a SYE. Sure you can fine tune your rear pinion angle, but you still need to either pitch your transfercase down with a Motor Mount/Body lift or install a SYE.

You do not want to have zero degrees of change on your rear/front diff to your drive lines. Typically a rear driveline will have 0 to 2 degrees becasue when rear torque os applied the driveline wants to pitch up. If your at 0 and it pitches up 2 degrees then your 2 degrees to high. Its a game. Try one setting and try again until you nail it.

Front driveshaft at 0 degrees. You want between 3 to 7 degrees of positive caster. The degrees depends on your lift height. If your at 0 degrees then your front Diff is pointing to far up towards the Transfercase and needs to be rolled back so it starts to point down away from the Transfercase. In the Jeep FSM it plainly states that Caster angle is more inportant than driveline angle.

I would check your caster as we'll as Toe-in. Of course an alighnment would rule them both out. In order to correct front caster you will need either caster bolts or front adjustable control arms.

To correct rear pinion you need adjustable upper control arms with either a SYE or a Transfercase drop/Motor mount lift. Keep in mind without a SYE you DO NOT want your rear diff at 0 degrees. Whatever the angle from the Transfercase is you want the angle of the rear diff to be the same.

Hope that helps some.
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Unread 09-02-2005, 03:01 PM   #44
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Since we are on the topic of pinion and ds angles, i struggled with this for days. I set the pinion angle to 2 below and still had the same vibe. I set it to 0 degrees with no change. I upped it to 2 above and still no change. No matter what i do with the pinion, it does not affect the vibe at all so i am thinking it's not even related to the ds or pinion angle at all. I'm thinking it's somethign inside the t-case possibly? Bad chain?
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Unread 09-02-2005, 03:26 PM   #45
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Well the new parts have arrived from OME. Softer rear spring (which will correct the fact that right now my rear is 1/2 inch above my front. I figure if the spring drops me down an inch then I will still have the 1/2 inch differential but in the right direction. Also the the 1" drop to the rear should be sort of like an MML.

Interesting twist last night. Under the Jeep dickering around and I looked up at the drive line. It looked cocked slightly sideways. I have been concerned with the up and dowm.
I thought to myself "what would cause my drive line to be cocked to the side and I remembered. The lift was on for 1-2 weeks before I got and installed the Rear Track bar relo bracket. Had no vibes those two weeks.
I put my bar back in its original place and I had a considerable decrease in my vibes.
I will install my replacement OME springs tonite or tomorrow and report back. i got rear upper adj CA's also.
I do know that my Caster is out due to the lift also.
Lots of little things to get back in spec.
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