I just finished installing the ORO (Manual) swayloc and I am not able to disengage the sway are due to the angle of the arm to the jeep. The manual lever hits the fender supports. I'm not sure if I have the wrong linkage arms or not. I know, I know I can cut the fender bracket, but I really don't want to do that. Thanks in advance for your help.
i checked mine, they are about the same angle, your might be a little higher in the back then mine, maybe you can shorten the links a little?
[COLOR=Navy][SIZE=2]03 Patriot Blue Sport[/SIZE][/COLOR]
Rubi d44 both ends, Crane Diff Covers, Rock trac t-case
Tom Woods CV DS, Alloy USA rear axles (waiting for install) ARB front bumper, Rock-it-Man Rockers
knoblock rear bumper, OBA in process,
bestop tire carrier, 35-12.5-16 trXus MT's on MOABs with 1.25 spidertrax
Currie HD steering
Nth Degree 6" LA kit. Garvin Wilderness Rack w/hi-lift mnt
HEMI & 5spd Auto
cincytj: is it possible to cut them down to size? I could not tell if the threads go all the way through.
I can tell you from just driving around with them today (had to take the family to do the weekly running around) they are much better than the stock sway bar. They are quiet, nice and tight and work very very well on the parking lot bumps at 25MPH. When turning a corner I don't feel any roll or rock. They are great thus far. To buy them go to www.northridge4x4.com, the sell two models, the manual and the air activated one. I went with the manual one and saved a few bucks. It was really simple to install; however, I had to do some grinding away of my SkidRow front bumper as the corners of my bumper were too close to the end of the swaybar (see attached picture).
i have that problem w/ mine...i just lift up on the bumper a bit, and that works.
i don't have a lift on mine yet, so i actually had to cut off 1/2 the threads on the heim joints, and hack off the aluminum too. (they should be for 2" minimum lift). i had no room to cut down anymore, hence why i pull up on the bumper.
I honestly don't know how far the threads go in. I run a Currie Antirock personally, but have friends that run the full ORO gear (including airrocks) and just know what theirs look like. Yours looks the same as my Antirock would if it was set too high. Been there done that!. Best suggestion I can make is to pull one of the links apart and go at it with a flashlight in the hole. Or just wait until the am and call Steve @ ORO. Sorry I can't be of more help.
I seem to recall a warning in my instruction saying that the fender support "might" be in the way if the arms are at too steep an angle. If the link length was needed to clear the tires then an alternative was to notch out the fender support.
With my BL on I don't have this problem but it sounds like ORO is taking care of you with a set of new links.
FYI, the end links do not have continuous threads in part due to the LH and RH twist nature of the threaded end links.
Just as an update I've been running the ORO SwayLOC for nearly a year now. Through mud, water, in dusty conditions and over many highway miles. It's been great. Everything remains nice and tight without any noises. And never has the SwayLOC failed to function, both engaging and disengaging. The upgrade in on-road handling from the Anti-rock I used to have is definitely worth the price of admission and the Jeep corners surprisingly flat and stable. Steering response has improved dramatically, too since I don't really have to wait for the Jeep to take a set when going into a turn the way I did with the Anti-rock. IIRC, the street bar is stiffer than the stock anti-sway bar to better account for lifted rigs. And offroad it gives me all the benefits and stability as the Anti-rock did.
Plus, the looks on guys faces at the trail head when you just flip a lever to "disconnect" your swaybar in about 2 seconds is great.
Better yet, at the end of a run when it's wet and the underside of the Jeeps are covered in muck and you're the one who's not having to monkey around with quick discos.