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Unread 04-06-2010, 12:14 PM   #61
lumpster
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very nice, i hope it performs as well as it should off road and on road.

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Unread 04-06-2010, 12:23 PM   #62
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Looks nice. It looks like you could increase the length of the lowers a bit more.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 12:37 PM   #63
05RubiLJ
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Looks nice. It looks like you could increase the length of the lowers a bit more.
You mean in the rear? Yeah, I didn't really notice it until I looked at the picture on the computer. The rear arms are set to stock lengths right now. They were brought in about 3/4" from where Currie sets them for their 4" lift. I am going to see where the 33" sit and adjust then. Right now, I just want to drive it for a while and see if I notice any issues with the install. (you just can't trust cheap labor )
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Unread 04-06-2010, 12:49 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post
Rear pinion - 8.5*

Output pinion - 6.5*
Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post
You mean in the rear? Yeah, I didn't really notice it until I looked at the picture on the computer. The rear arms are set to stock lengths right now. They were brought in about 3/4" from where Currie sets them for their 4" lift. I am going to see where the 33" sit and adjust then. Right now, I just want to drive it for a while and see if I notice any issues with the install. (you just can't trust cheap labor )
eeewwww, 2* difference. you can dial that in much better with your adjustable arms. you want them to read the same angle since you have a single cardan shaft.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 04:12 PM   #65
05RubiLJ
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
eeewwww, 2* difference. you can dial that in much better with your adjustable arms. you want them to read the same angle since you have a single cardan shaft.
Well, I moved the lowers out 4 full turns (about 1" longer I think) and now the output shaft is at 6.5* and the pinion angle is at 6*
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Unread 04-06-2010, 04:57 PM   #66
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Well, I moved the lowers out 4 full turns (about 1" longer I think) and now the output shaft is at 6.5* and the pinion angle is at 6*
That should be good. Just make sure that, at full bump, that your diff cover isn't contacting the gas tank skid AND the tire isn't contacting the body. If both are the case, then there's no reason you shouldn't move the wheelbase back a bit more. If you wouldn't mind, post a picture with the new control arm lengths. You could probably move the front out a bit too but probably not a whole inch.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 05:01 PM   #67
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You could probably move the front out a bit too but probably not a whole inch.
Pushing out the front could cause issues with the track bar hitting the diff and the drag link hitting the track bar/stabilizer mount when turning right.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 05:10 PM   #68
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Pushing out the front could cause issues with the track bar hitting the diff and the drag link hitting the track bar/stabilizer mount when turning right.
Yes it could. That's why you need to measure, lengthen, test, and evaluate. With short arms, the wheelbase loss when drooping sucks so the length of the arm needs to be maxed out within the limiting constraints.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 05:20 PM   #69
05RubiLJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
That should be good. Just make sure that, at full bump, that your diff cover isn't contacting the gas tank skid AND the tire isn't contacting the body. If both are the case, then there's no reason you shouldn't move the wheelbase back a bit more. If you wouldn't mind, post a picture with the new control arm lengths. You could probably move the front out a bit too but probably not a whole inch.
Ask and ye shall...



Sorry about the glare from the setting sun, hopefully it will give an idea.

Took a test drive and all I can say is WOW. The stock Rubi springs just beat you up over bumps and tend to oscillate. These AEV springs just soak stuff up! Cornering is much improved - very flat around corners. Not s sports car feeling, but compared to the old springs.... There were 50k on the old spring, not sure how much they lost over time.

Last edited by 05RubiLJ; 04-06-2010 at 05:44 PM..
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Unread 04-06-2010, 05:39 PM   #70
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Looks good but it STILL looks like you could push it back a bit more but it could be the camera angle.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 08:46 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post
Well, while many people are out at the Easter Safari in Moab, I am finally going to install my lift. After talking with mudb8, I have decided on this setup that I purchased from Rob's 4 Wheel Drive.
  • Nth 3.0" TJ Front Springs
  • Nth 3.0" TJ Rear Unlimited springs
  • OME n66L front shocks
  • OME n67 rear shocks
  • OME 2.5" rear track bar relocation bracket
  • currie ce9100 upper and lower adjustable JJ CA's
  • currie ce9122f 2" front bumpstop extensions
  • currie ce9120tjs hd front track bar
  • currie/jks ce9141 front disco's
  • currie ce9142 rear sway bar links
  • RE1385 rear bumpstop extensions


what did all this cost you, with shipping?
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Unread 04-06-2010, 09:15 PM   #72
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You've done your homework for sure. Nice choice on the components you chose. Curious on what was your deciding factor on choosing the AEV springs over going OME?
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Unread 04-06-2010, 09:36 PM   #73
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If you have the rear lowers out to 16 3/4"... don't extend them any further. when you goto a 33"-35" tire you'll find the reason for setting the lowers near stock length, Currie arms aren't designed to be run that long.

as for the front, set them @ 16" and 14 3/4 like I suggested, and you won't need to have the caster set. don't waste any time messing with an extra 1/4" of wheel base. It'll only cause you problems, For One, the diff will hit the JJ on the currie Track bar...

There's a reason for My madness, I fool with these things all the time.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 10:16 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
I just zip-tied 'em up for now until I figure out a way to take those brackets off without damaging the lines. If you come up with a solution, please post!
I VERY carefully scored the brake line brackets with a mini-cutoff wheel on a Dremel until it was weak enough to bend open. They were a pain, but they came off once they were scored, I used a giant flathead screwdriver to pry it wide enough to slip off the lines.

The build looks great. Did I miss how much lift those springs gave you?
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Unread 04-07-2010, 04:51 AM   #75
05RubiLJ
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what did all this cost you, with shipping?
In page 2 I showed some of my costs, it will run about $2300 for the setup, depends on where you get the parts.
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currie , hybrid lift , nth , nth degree , ome
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