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Unread 04-04-2010, 07:55 PM   #31
ekim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Jeeper View Post
Yes, they should be hand tightened and then Jeep sitting on full weight to torque them to proper specs.
I understand this "rule" with rubber bushings, but does it really apply to a JJ? Since the joint is basically free floating is there a need to let it "settle" into its ride height position before final tightening?



Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post


If the jeeps is going to be run the rocks I think there's a good chance that grease fitting will be taken out. I would also keep a watchful eye on the jamb nut. If the arms are dragged in the rocks there's a good chance of knocking it loose.

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Unread 04-04-2010, 08:06 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by ekim View Post
I understand this "rule" with rubber bushings, but does it really apply to a JJ? Since the joint is basically free floating is there a need to let it "settle" into its ride height position before final tightening?
I see your point about double JJs. Mine has one JJ and one rubber bush. Though I think it might be safer to fully tightened when on wheels (instead of being propped up on jack stands). I know jack stands are the way to go, but something about 100+ ft/lbs of torque and jack stands makes me nervous.

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Originally Posted by ekim View Post
If the jeeps is going to be run the rocks I think there's a good chance that grease fitting will be taken out. I would also keep a watchful eye on the jamb nut. If the arms are dragged in the rocks there's a good chance of knocking it loose.
On my Rokmen arms, instructions were to put that nipple in upward position. That might make it more difficult to grease. How about replacing this style of nipples with flush ones in the current location (i.e. that require needle style attachment to grease).
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Unread 04-04-2010, 08:23 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Kiwi Jeeper View Post
How about replacing this style of nipples with flush ones in the current location (i.e. that require needle style attachment to grease).
If it's dragged over stuff all the time I think it would get stuff jammed into it and is still at risk of getting messed up. I would try a plug first. If that get sheared off the threaded part usually stays in and can often be taken out pretty easily.
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Unread 04-04-2010, 08:31 PM   #34
RubiconRazorbac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekim View Post
If the jeeps is going to be run the rocks I think there's a good chance that grease fitting will be taken out. I would also keep a watchful eye on the jamb nut. If the arms are dragged in the rocks there's a good chance of knocking it loose.
I installed them with the nipple on the frame end with the nipple up. That'll help keep them out of the rocks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Jeeper View Post
I see your point about double JJs. Mine has one JJ and one rubber bush. Though I think it might be safer to fully tightened when on wheels (instead of being propped up on jack stands). I know jack stands are the way to go, but something about 100+ ft/lbs of torque and jack stands makes me nervous.
Upper CAs are torqued to 60 ft/lbs and lowers are torqued at 90 ft/lbs for JJs. Another bonus, no more torquing lowers with bushings to 130!
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Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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Unread 04-04-2010, 08:37 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Kiwi Jeeper View Post
To move it back from the position you are in, I just put a bottle jack under the spring perch and lifted it, which rolled the axle forward and centered the bolt. Then I got the big washers in on both sides and did the bolt just tight enough to keep it from not moving.
X2. If the ratchet straps aren't doing enough, you can do wonders with the bottle jack. If you're careful, you can put the bottle jack upside down with the base to the frame of the Jeep with the "top" of the jack engaging the lower shock mount. The jack will be around 30-45 degrees and will both rotate the pinion down and move the axle forward.

You can find very creative anchor points for that bottle jack when you need something to move
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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Unread 04-04-2010, 08:47 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
I installed them with the nipple on the frame end with the nipple up. That'll help keep them out of the rocks.
Me too. The nipple is safe up there. The jamb nut can still get loosened, but I think it gets hit less often.

Last edited by ekim; 04-04-2010 at 09:01 PM..
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Unread 04-05-2010, 08:09 AM   #37
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I have taken a break from the front end because it will not cooperate. In working on the back end, I have 3 of the four CA in place - No Axle Rotation this time! I used ratchet straps to hold the axle in place as I removed the bolts, then just replaced the arms, adjusted with the straps and inserted the bolts - MUCH EASIER! I am now working on the OME relocation bracket and tried to only remove the axle end of the track bar but I can't seem to get it out of the bracket to sit above. I guess you must remove both ends to get it above the axle bracket?

For the lines running on the driver side UCA, I was going to attach them with zip ties but what about the fixed brackets? did you leave them in place and wrap them in something or take them off?
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Unread 04-05-2010, 08:39 AM   #38
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For the lines running on the driver side UCA, I was going to attach them with zip ties but what about the fixed brackets? did you leave them in place and wrap them in something or take them off?
I just zip-tied 'em up for now until I figure out a way to take those brackets off without damaging the lines. If you come up with a solution, please post!
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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Unread 04-05-2010, 01:12 PM   #39
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That rear end is in! Finally. Spend 3 days on the front and it still is giving me fits but the rear goes in within a few hours.

Here is a pic of the rear



I circled where I cut the tab from the previous hardware. It stuck out past the relocation bracket and I was afraid of it rubbing on something. Once everything was installed, it looked like it might not be necessary to cut off but better to be safe. I am going to wrap the brake line brackets in some elect tape and just attach with zip ties.

Now back to the front end...
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Unread 04-05-2010, 01:13 PM   #40
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Oh and the rear pass shock cover touches the tailpipe.. Should that be wrapped in some header tape or something like that?
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Unread 04-05-2010, 02:38 PM   #41
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It shouldn't be touching

Lets see some final pics.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 02:48 PM   #42
05RubiLJ
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I FINALLY got the front drivers side CA in place!!! I guess it's like a jigsaw puzzle, one you are ready to put the last piece in, it just fits (with a prybar and two ratchet straps )

I set my front anti-sway bar to the 10* suggested with the adjustable disconnects. Now I just have to find the torque settings for the JJ, install the front track bar and grease everything up.

Final numbers for the lift:

Before:
Front - 32 15/16
Rear - 33 1/2

After:
Front - 36 1/4
Rear - 36 3/4

Net:
Front - 3 5/16"
Rear - 3 1/4"

ALMOST THERE!!!

Last edited by 05RubiLJ; 04-05-2010 at 03:00 PM..
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Unread 04-05-2010, 02:53 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by JeepnBlake View Post
It shouldn't be touching

Lets see some final pics.
Now that the Jeep is off the jack stands on the tires, there is a good 1.5"+ between the tailpipe and the shock

Pics after everything is torqued down and the steering and alignment are done.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 02:58 PM   #44
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I just zip-tied 'em up for now until I figure out a way to take those brackets off without damaging the lines. If you come up with a solution, please post!
I think I remember reading someone on here suggest that the brackets could be bent open using a pair of channel locks. I have yet to succeed on that though, although I work behind a desk so maybe I should hit the gym regularly for a few months and try again. Would like to get them out of there though.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 03:01 PM   #45
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I think I remember reading someone on here suggest that the brackets could be bent open using a pair of channel locks. I have yet to succeed on that though, although I work behind a desk so maybe I should hit the gym regularly for a few months and try again. Would like to get them out of there though.
Perhaps a little heat will make it a little easier for your white collar folk.
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