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Unread 04-03-2010, 06:51 PM   #16
MayRoll
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frigginjeep View Post
One question in regards to the lengths of the new control arms that you mentioned you set them to...are those lengths from one end of the arm to the other (outside to outside), or are the from center of bushing to center of bushing?
That would be eye to eye (center of bushing).

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Unread 04-03-2010, 08:19 PM   #17
05RubiLJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frigginjeep View Post
One question in regards to the lengths of the new control arms that you mentioned you set them to...are those lengths from one end of the arm to the other (outside to outside), or are the from center of bushing to center of bushing?

Thanks...
Those are measurements from the center of the bushing.

X2 what MayRoll said... beat me to it
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Unread 04-03-2010, 08:25 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ekim View Post
I suspect you'll need new front brake lines with those longer shocks. Let the axle drop with the shocks in and carefully turn the wheel to test...
Right now the pass side droops more than the drivers side. Without the shocks connected, a left turn at full droop would pull them out. And yes, I need longer brake lines.

So far to make it "THE" 3" SA kit, I need to add axle mount rubber replacement bushings and longer brake lines. We'll see what else I need.

Thanks for the heads up.
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Unread 04-03-2010, 08:31 PM   #19
05RubiLJ
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[quote=RubiconRazorbac;9215609I took two crescent wrenches & opened them where the "slot" was just wide enough to get the wings of the CAs in them. Then just bent them out enough to fit over the bushing. Take it easy though, it's easy to bend them out too much. If you bend them out too much it's harder to line up the holes for the bolt.[/QUOTE]

This is what I did - finesse with a pry bar:


Quote:
Just a note, the e-brake cables are bolted to the rear upper CAs with a cable bracket. They're easier to get off the CAs BEFORE you unbolt the CAs. Ask me how I know...
Thanks again for the heads up. Great to have all the historical trial and error for the next group.
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Unread 04-03-2010, 08:36 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post
This is what I did - finesse with a pry bar:




Thanks again for the heads up. Great to have all the historical trial and error for the next group.
You mind me asking what this whole setup cost you?
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Unread 04-03-2010, 11:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Vandano View Post
You mind me asking what this whole setup cost you?
i hear that, the wife keeps asking me what its going to cost,


I got tired of hearing her say just do it, so i just ordered 5 wheels and 5 35 inch mtr kevlars. Now i have to figure up what the lift is going to cost.
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Don't ask me to repeat or remember those prices, I may be grumpy tomorrow and either double them or quit altogether.



Want to STOP?

Edited
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Unread 04-04-2010, 05:57 AM   #22
05RubiLJ
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Originally Posted by Vandano View Post
You mind me asking what this whole setup cost you?
Not at all. Although I have many tools, I always seem to find that when I do these projects there is something else I need. So...

The hardware for the lift was nearly $2300 with shipping. As I have said before, I paid more than I would have from some other places but I really felt that after working with mudb8 that saving $100 but using all of his knowledge and experience for free was bad karma. I also had to buy 4 taller jacks stands, a 1/2" drill, a 3/8" close in drill, a 1/2" impact wrench and an impact socket set, spring compressors, tap set, a 5/8" drill bit and cutting oil. All of that probably ran between $200-$250. I didn't buy top of the line stuff since I don't run an auto shop and use many of these tools very infrequently. Good ol' HF. I will also need to buy a taller floor jack for the future but I used the wood block for this install (it wont take the abuse for long).

What I already had that was invaluable:
PB Blaster, 150 psi compressor w/ 50ft of hose, 3/8" impact wrench, 3/8" air ratchet, tie rod separator, 3" and 6" socket extensions, 10" x 1/2" breaker bar, varied 1/2" and 3/8" metric sockets, short pry bar, BFH.

You might be able to get away without the air stuff but I just coudn't get the front top shock nut to turn without turning the inside. YMMV.

Now, if you add in the longer brake lines for the front and the rubber bushing replacements that could add another $50+ to the kit. I still need to see once the shock is mounted that the brake lines are still too short. They are with no shock or spring installed and I may just want to be safe before disconnecting. No buying anything on easter sunday though so it will wait.
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Unread 04-04-2010, 06:12 AM   #23
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I have been thinking about changing my OME springs to something more reasonable, looks like AEV ones are the way to go.
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Unread 04-04-2010, 06:50 AM   #24
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Wanted to show another step. When installing the front lower Currie bumpstops, you need to drill and tap a 7/16"x14 reciever for the bolt. If you look up a drill guide for taps, it says you should use a size U drill bit. What is a size U drill bit you say? It is 0.368". Now you could go out and get one (I didn't look long but still didn't find one) or you can use a 23/64" bit (which I had) and that is 0.008625" smaller than a size U. Do not go to a 3/8" bit since you will lose thread depth. To find the spot on the lower perch for the hole, I took the aluminum spacer and placed it in the center of the pad. Then I took a pointed punch and put it into the center of the spacer and hit the punch to mark the spot. I used a smaller drill bit and drilled a starter hole then went back through with the 23/64" bit. You need to go in about 3/4"-1" to get enough threads for the bolt. Then you tap the hole. I used cutting oil for the drilling and tapping.



I needed to use a 3/8" close in drill in order to get the bit perpendicular to the pad and get underneath the upper bumpstop mount. I suppose it is better to do this before putting the control arms back in since you get more droop without them in. It's only $30 from HF for the drill so it is not worth my time removing stuff just to do it with my larger drill.

Hint for removing the rear shocks. I'm sure this has been posted before but in the event you haven't done this: Have (2) 6" socket extensions in order to get at the bolts beyond the gas tank. Also as a hint, the bolts line up with the shock so just follow the shock angle with your socket in order to grab the head of the bolt. I know it may be trivial but I kept trying at the first one at a slightly different angle and I kept jumping off the head of the bolt. I'm not sure if it needed but I started taking off the lower rear shock bolt without lifting up on the spring a bit to brace it and before the bolt came out, I got a wierd noise from the spring. So before moving any further, I put a jack under the shock mount and slightly lifted on it to brace it before removing the shock. Not sure it is necessary but springs are not to be played around with. Too many people get injured because they are messing around trying to do suspension work without thinking. Or, just remove the spring first. It is easier to remove the spring if you do it with the anti-sway bar ends disconnected. The axle can droop far enough to let you just pull them out. It is not so easy to get the longer ones in
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Unread 04-04-2010, 09:05 AM   #25
05RubiLJ
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You can see the front spring and shock installed now.



The axle is moved back slightly and I have the control arm bolt too far forward.



Any hints on sliding the axle forward so I can lock this down? I thought that the control arms should be torqued to spec after the Jeep is on the ground at ride height, true?
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Unread 04-04-2010, 11:45 AM   #26
RubiconRazorbac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post
The axle is moved back slightly and I have the control arm bolt too far forward.



Any hints on sliding the axle forward so I can lock this down? I thought that the control arms should be torqued to spec after the Jeep is on the ground at ride height, true?
Ratchet straps work to re-position the axle. As far as the bolt goes, make sure you're using the extra set of larger outside-diameter washers in the hardware package for your lower arms. Those washers fit in that spot and center the bolt in the hole. I can't tell from the pic if that's the larger or smaller washer you have on the bolt.
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/

Last edited by RubiconRazorbac; 04-04-2010 at 11:59 AM..
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Unread 04-04-2010, 12:21 PM   #27
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Can't see if you have your track bar on there or not, but taking it off or taking the bolt out of one end might help your axle stay a little more "square" up there while you're working on that lower control arm position.
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Unread 04-04-2010, 01:27 PM   #28
05RubiLJ
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Ok update:

I finally got the spring on the drivers side in place but it required (at least I thought so) to remove 1 end of the UCA and LCA on the drivers side. Boy, that was a mistake! The whole axle shifted to the passenger side by about 4 inches! Well the ratchet straps worked to get the LCA back in place and I was able to use the larger washer to center it.

The other new event, my spring compressor failed. The welded nut on the end came loose and shot parts out the top. Luckily nothing got damaged and I was not hit. Last time I trust my life to a cheap parts from HF! They have great prices on some things but if it fails and you can get injured - forget it!

I can't get the axle rotated enough to get the UCA back in place. I have two ratchet straps as shown



Any ideas on other ways to rotate the axle?

And yes, the trackbar is disconnected axle side.
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Unread 04-04-2010, 01:51 PM   #29
JeepnBlake
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You could try taking the bottom CAs off and just do the tops, then the bottoms?

I really like this build btw
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Unread 04-04-2010, 07:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post
The axle is moved back slightly and I have the control arm bolt too far forward.



Any hints on sliding the axle forward so I can lock this down? I thought that the control arms should be torqued to spec after the Jeep is on the ground at ride height, true?
Yes, they should be hand tightened and then Jeep sitting on full weight to torque them to proper specs. Use that big round washer to keep the bolt centered. To move it back from the position you are in, I just put a bottle jack under the spring perch and lifted it, which rolled the axle forward and centered the bolt. Then I got the big washers in on both sides and did the bolt just tight enough to keep it from not moving.

Looking good.
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currie , hybrid lift , nth , nth degree , ome

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