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Unread 04-02-2010, 08:17 AM   #1
05RubiLJ
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Installing 3" hybrid lift

Well, while many people are out at the Easter Safari in Moab, I am finally going to install my lift. After talking with mudb8, I have decided on this setup that I purchased from Rob's 4 Wheel Drive.
  • Nth 3.0" TJ Front Springs
  • Nth 3.0" TJ Rear Unlimited springs
  • OME n66L front shocks
  • OME n67 rear shocks
  • OME 2.5" rear track bar relocation bracket
  • currie ce9100 upper and lower adjustable JJ CA's
  • currie ce9122f 2" front bumpstop extensions
  • currie ce9120tjs hd front track bar
  • currie/jks ce9141 front disco's
  • currie ce9142 rear sway bar links
  • RE1385 rear bumpstop extensions



I just layed everything out and realized that the upper poly bumpstop was not in the box from Currie. (should be next to the small aluminum spacers) I have sent off an email and hopefully there will be no issues getting them sent over.

Not sure how long it will take me but it should be a great way for me to learn more about the TJ suspension. I have replaced other car suspensions so I know just enough to be dangerous.

Not a great pic since my driveway in angled but here is the stance right now



Will post more as the progress happens.

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Unread 04-02-2010, 08:19 AM   #2
JCWJEEP
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Looks like you weren't fooling around when you pieced together your kit. Good selection of parts. You should be pleased.

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Unread 04-03-2010, 07:51 AM   #3
05RubiLJ
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I made some progress last night. Much less than I hoped because I was fighting to get some bolts out and I wasnt sure the best order to do things. Also, I found out there were some things I needed that I had not realized. You need tall jack stands if you expect to be able to put you wheels back on after you have longer springs. I'm glad I measured what I had and realized this before everything was in. Also, you need to jack that will lift the frame up high enough to get on your new jack stands. I used a piece of 4x6 to create more lift for my jack. You also need some taps if you dont have them. 5/8 fine tap and a 7/16 coarse tap for the bumpstops and the disconnects mount point once they have been disconnected so they are not lose in the wheel well.

Before doing anything I set the upper control arms to 14 3/4" and the lowers to 16" based on information from mudb8. I will check the caster when I am done but he has done enough of these, I assume he knows what he is doing

I started by removing the lower control arms.


Then removed the upper control arms and loosened the nuts holding the anti-sway bar extensions. In order to get the shocks out, you will likely need access to the holes in the wheel wells. I was not able to loosen the nut on top of the shock with a ratchet box wrench because the inside of the shock shaft would move before the corrosion was overcome. I had to use my small impact gun to get it loose but that requires moving the stock airbox. There are three 10mm nuts holding it in place in the wheel well (outlined in red)


You will also need to move the crossbar over the airbox. I did this by only removing the front bolt and letting it move out of the way when I was moving the airbox. In the image below you can see I have the lower control arms attached and the upper ones are attached frame side only. You need a 7/16 bit to open the axle end attachement point and my bit set doesn't have a reduced shank. Hmm buy a new bit or get a new 1/2" drill.... Ok, this morning I will be buying a new drill

I had a tough time getting the ani-sway bar extensions off the front. I had to use my tie rod fork to break them loose. Don't be afraid to hit it, it took considerable force to get them broken free. I'm going to do some searching but how do you get the upper front bumpstop off? I found out that my LJ had 130AA springs up front. Any hints on drilling and taping the lower perch pad for the lower bumpstops? Anything that I should make sure not to hit under there? You can barely see the new track bar laying on the ground in front of the axle since I have not drilled out the mount point to get it in. For adjustment of the track bar length, is it just put everything in and make the length that fits the hole? Another thing, does the Currie front track bar not come with new hardware for the axle side mount?

More work to do today - still hopeful to have it done in time for work Monday morning.
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Unread 04-03-2010, 08:13 AM   #4
RubiconRazorbac
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Make sure you use plenty of oil on your drill bit when drilling out those upper CA mounts. I just did this last weekend and you'll generate some heat on those things.

As far as the bumpstops, just pull out the rubber parts & you can feel a hex bolt in the cup (from the bottom).
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Quote:
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Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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Unread 04-03-2010, 12:19 PM   #5
05RubiLJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Make sure you use plenty of oil on your drill bit when drilling out those upper CA mounts. I just did this last weekend and you'll generate some heat on those things.

As far as the bumpstops, just pull out the rubber parts & you can feel a hex bolt in the cup (from the bottom).
I kept trying to find the nut in the top cup

So any hints on getting the axle side UCA in place on the diff? I was able to pound the one on the pass side on but this one will not go. I have started filing the edges to see but it is taking some time and there is little clearance.

I used some cutting oil and the drill bit made it right through - did smoke a little.

I made the axle level and placed the length of the track bar to fit. I couldn't find any real instructions on setting it so I figured that was the way it should fit.

I assume the with the little clearance in the back UCAs that it is a breaker bar removal and not an impact wrench?
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Unread 04-03-2010, 01:25 PM   #6
LGriffith
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Looks to be a nice set-up. That's basically exactly what I would want, if I was to start over.
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Unread 04-03-2010, 03:04 PM   #7
RubiconRazorbac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post
I kept trying to find the nut in the top cup


Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post
So any hints on getting the axle side UCA in place on the diff? I was able to pound the one on the pass side on but this one will not go. I have started filing the edges to see but it is taking some time and there is little clearance.
I took two crescent wrenches & opened them where the "slot" was just wide enough to get the wings of the CAs in them. Then just bent them out enough to fit over the bushing. Take it easy though, it's easy to bend them out too much. If you bend them out too much it's harder to line up the holes for the bolt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post
I made the axle level and placed the length of the track bar to fit. I couldn't find any real instructions on setting it so I figured that was the way it should fit.
The trackbar should be adjusted with the weight of the Jeep on the suspension at ride height. That way you can center the Jeep over the axle and adjust the trackbar at the axle end for the proper length.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RubiLJ View Post
I assume the with the little clearance in the back UCAs that it is a breaker bar removal and not an impact wrench?
Actually my breaker bar was a little too long if that makes sense. I ended up just putting a good amount of *** behind my 1/2" ratchet which has a pretty decent handle anyway.

Just a note, the e-brake cables are bolted to the rear upper CAs with a cable bracket. They're easier to get off the CAs BEFORE you unbolt the CAs. Ask me how I know...
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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Unread 04-03-2010, 04:07 PM   #8
lumpster
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i cant wait to hear how this rides, i want almost the same setup, except i want to outboard my rear shocks at the same time, so hopefully ill be able to use a longer shock in the back.


BTW thanks for doing this writeup, and i hope it works as good as i we all think it should!!


One more thing, is there any reason you are not replacing the rubber bushings in the front housing while your doing all this work?
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Unread 04-03-2010, 04:19 PM   #9
Unlimited04
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very nice component selection. now THAT is a complete 3" lift.
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Unread 04-03-2010, 04:31 PM   #10
99TJSahara
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I am very envious of your lift, all good choices.
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Last edited by 99TJSahara; 04-03-2010 at 05:20 PM..
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Unread 04-03-2010, 05:14 PM   #11
05RubiLJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpster View Post
i cant wait to hear how this rides, i want almost the same setup, except i want to outboard my rear shocks at the same time, so hopefully ill be able to use a longer shock in the back.


BTW thanks for doing this writeup, and i hope it works as good as i we all think it should!!
Glad to do it. Piecing the kit together leaves you with few instructions. It's almost like the guys at Currie think you ALREADY know what you are doing


Quote:
One more thing, is there any reason you are not replacing the rubber bushings in the front housing while your doing all this work?
Cause it isn't a "kit" and I didn't know better.

You can see in this picture with the suspension fully lifted on both sides that the trackbar has good clearance.


Out to get more done before it gets dark.
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Unread 04-03-2010, 05:15 PM   #12
05RubiLJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
very nice component selection. now THAT is a complete 3" lift.
Thanks. Not cheap but I only plan to do this once....

(I know famous last words)
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Unread 04-03-2010, 05:19 PM   #13
ekim
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I suspect you'll need new front brake lines with those longer shocks. Let the axle drop with the shocks in and carefully turn the wheel to test...
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Unread 04-03-2010, 05:36 PM   #14
MayRoll
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Very cool... Close to my build. Your's will handle a little nicer on road though. I'm sure you'll enjoy your new lift. The front coil / damper is a perfect setup. I can unseat my rear coils full drop with the N67L, I noticed you picked the N67... Good call.



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Unread 04-03-2010, 05:37 PM   #15
frigginjeep
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I have been piecing parts together for a few months for a similar install that will take place in the next few weeks...


One question in regards to the lengths of the new control arms that you mentioned you set them to...are those lengths from one end of the arm to the other (outside to outside), or are the from center of bushing to center of bushing?

Thanks...
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