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Installed new OPDA and it still wont start, ideas?

11K views 16 replies 4 participants last post by  Rubi4MyMrs 
#1 ·
I got the alignment right , could the timing still have been blown due to failure of this part? I read through the opda post , maybe I missed something.
What else should I look at , or should I just assume the timing is off?


Tried two sensors as well. Is there a better self timing method out there aside from the one in the opda post as well?

Thanks again...
 
#2 ·
Which alignment method did you use?
 
#3 ·
When i took the first one out to inspect it l i used the sharpie method , I then I read after the fact about turning the crank and aligning the holes , so i put it back in , lined it up ,bolted it back , then turned the engine by hand till the holes lined up and put a screw driver in the hole , then took it out.
Got the new one , put it in , it did not line up exactly as the original , but had the factory pin in , i though that was right , so i bolted it in and tried to start it , it wouldnt , I guess the housing not alignned . So i hand cranked it again to line up the pin , and put it back in and pulled it out.

I pulled out the shipping pin , and used the same screw driver I used to pull the old one...and lined it up and put it back in, this time it lined up right with the houseing, but still wont start.

Thats my dilema..
 
#4 ·
When i took the first one out to inspect it l i used the sharpie method , I then I read after the fact about turning the crank and aligning the holes , so i put it back in , lined it up ,bolted it back , then turned the engine by hand till the holes lined up and put a screw driver in the hole , then took it out.
Are you 100% certain that when you put it back in after sharpie mark removal? Did you start it again before turning the crank to align it? If yes to either, then you must be off by just a tad and can slightly loosen the hold down and tap to turn the OPDA housing in tiny increments to try to get it back. If no to either, then you could be way off, in which case you'll have to do use the TDC method. It's really easy to be off by a whole tooth when installing it as the shaft tends to want to rotate as it engages the cam.
 
#5 ·
I guess at this point , i might as well try the loosen and turn method , couldnt hurt and all it could do is start , thanks for that info.

Im sure with all the moving I did , i always lined it back up , but like you said , one tooth and its off.

I guess i could measure the old gear from the opda , and move in increments of that measurement....i could go 1mm at a time up, maybe 3 tries then if nothing , go back to original start , and then 1mm down each try and see what happens.
 
#6 ·
I guess i could measure the old gear from the opda , and move in increments of that measurement....i could go 1mm at a time up, maybe 3 tries then if nothing , go back to original start , and then 1mm down each try and see what happens.
^This, except do it in 0.5mm increments.
 
#8 ·
First, was it running before you pulled the OPDA or did you pull it because the jeep wouldn't start?

Then I think you missed a step when you used the alignment pin. After bringing it close to lining up the holes you have to set the engine to TDC by lining up the timing mark with the notch on the front pulley. Then loosen the OPDA hold down bolt & turn the housing until the holes line up. Set the alignment pin in & tighten the bolt. That should do it. Remove the pin of course.

It is hard to see the marks unless you remove the belt. Here is a photo of mine with the belt off & the marks (highlighted with white paint) lined up.

When you replace the OPDA you can't expect the housing to be in the exact same place as before because the gears aren't put on the shaft in the exact same place from unit to unit. What is important is that the holes line up with the engine at TDC.
 

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#9 ·
it was not running when I took the OPDA out , I had to tow it home.....on the reseting the timing , on the opda topic I read, it said it needed to be hooked up to a diag tool and set to relearn...quoted "Connect DRB scan tool to data link connector. Gain access to "CAM/CRANK RELEARN" screen on DRB scan tool.
I dont have this tool , it this step 100% neccasary
 
#10 ·
No you don't need the DRB. It is true that is what is needed to accurately "0" the cam/crank sync but everything I have read says that the PCM will compensate to about +/- 7.5º so get it as close to TDC with the pin in & you will be OK. In Willy's long OPDA mod thread there are MANY of us that have set it with the TDC or sharpie method & have had no problems. More importantly, if it wasn't running what made you think the OPDA needed replacing? Maybe the actual problem lies elsewhere.
 
#11 ·
Dude....you all are awesome...i did the nudge it thinga majig and it started....and ran.
It takes a few cranks to start it , and I got the p0016 Cam code...im thinking if i just keep nudgeing it , i could get it close....al least now I can have it timed by the shop without a tow and reseting with that dba tool.

Should I keep trying or let a shop have it???
 
#12 ·
I would keep bumping it. As stated above, just bump it a LITTLE. It is easier if you don't loosen the bolt too much then tap it a little. Since you have it running, mark the housing position on the block so you can find your way back in case you over correct. I think but not positive that the P0016 means you are off more than 7.5º but less than 15º.
 
#13 ·
I was thinking i can mark it where its at now, then turn it back till it stalls or studders , then go the other way till it does the same , then go right in the middle of those marks......and then clear the code and try again....

Im learning alot , I should write this up when I am done on the opda topic. Dont think I read anyone doimg this method...
 
#14 ·
Let us know how that works. I don't know what this means exactly but here is something I found. On one of my installs I got it off a bit but it started fine & no codes. After it warmed up to about 160º the CEL came on with a P0016 code. I reset the CEL & repositioned the OPDA more carefully & no more CEL. The point is that you may want to warm it up before you move it. It might give more accurate results. I think warming it up puts it into closed loop & monitors everything more closely than in open loop.
 
#15 ·
Man u guys are champs , I did the nudge , clear code and drive routine, after 3 tries , no check engine light , code, and it starts faster. I can not express how gratefully I am , I am having a BBQ now, drinking some vodka and settling down, I will have several drinks to all forum members that helped me , also I started my RC 4" N2.0 lift today , bloody knuckles, stripped nuts, broken sockets, cursing and that is only the two shocks and springs, haven't even touched the track bar stabilizer and rear yet, but man I tell you what the mood and feelings I have now are so good, grand. , awesome, what a day... Thank you all . I will drink to and for you. Shoot shoot. :cheers2::cheers2:
 
#17 ·
The FSM shows an old picture of the timing marks from some previous year. One of several errors I have found over the years. Hope my photo here helps. They say you can see the marks without removing the belt. It may be possible but it is definitely easier with the belt out of the way. The OPDA needs to be set pretty close so seeing the mark clearly is helpful. You can see that I added a bit of white paint to aid as well.

As for getting it on #1, if you remove the #1 sparkplug & turn the engine clockwise with your finger over the hole you will be able to feel the compression pushing on your finger as it comes up on #1. Once you feel that just watch the marks since the next time it gets to the mark it will be where you need it. Make sure you only turn it clockwise or everything will be wrong. With it exactly on the marks you can remove the OPDA & line the holes up. Pin it in place. Turning the slot (with a screwdriver) in the oil pump to line up is tricky & may take several attempts. The OPDA will rotate as it goes down into place & the slot engages after it starts to rotate so it is not an exact science on getting it lined up but when the OPDA goes all the way down & bottoms out on the block it is in the slot, if not it won't go quite all the way down. Here is a link that will show the approximate starting position to get it to rotate to the normal 4 o'clock position. The exact position is not really important as long as the holes line up with the engine at TDC. Don't remove the pin until you lock the OPDA by tightening the bolt to keep it from moving. Even a little bit may cause a code.

Removing with pin in to see the rotation needed.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/2...or-failure-1144202/index199.html#post13398285

Also here w/3 photos -- belt off, & positions of housing in & coming out
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/opda-install-help-1347545/#post13299830
 
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