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Unread 08-05-2010, 07:22 PM   #16
SuperWade2
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I built my rig for 35's+ about 3 years ago... I ran 33's until this past April.

My lift was too tall (for 33's, and the LCOG police would say too tall for 35's), my Gearing was too low (4.56's with 3sp auto) for much highway driving and my axles and other stuff (Brakes, etc) was overkill for 33's... I knew I was building for 35's and just wanted to get all of the other stuff ready before having the cash to do 35's.

I didn't run any super hard trails, but everywhere I went, I did absolutely as well as every guy out on the trails with 35's. There were areas where I wasn't getting hung up or stuck where guys I was wheeling with 35's did...

So I guess it depends on where you want to go. I didn't really plan on it taking me 3 years to go from 33's to 35's, but it did, and I think I'm fairly well setup now on 35's to do the trails that I plan on being able to do. It's not well setup for everywhere, but build it for the terrain you wheel in!

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Unread 08-05-2010, 07:35 PM   #17
inglisleslie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jforse View Post
Yes, but it is considerably more $$ to move to 35's. How often do you hit the trail?
not as much as the jump from 35 to 37...its WAAAY cheaper to go from 33s to 35s. And if your car is stick then downshifting can help with braking alot
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Unread 08-05-2010, 07:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inglisleslie View Post
not as much as the jump from 35 to 37...its WAAAY cheaper to go from 33s to 35s. And if your car is stick then downshifting can help with braking alot
Not really....
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Unread 08-05-2010, 08:03 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
Not really....
Just the price of the tires!
33" about $200
35" about $250
37" about $350

With 37"s you will want 5.13 gearing which means your dana 30 carrier is useless. You will need upgraded shafts on whatever rear axle your running (44, 8.8, 60 if your lucky!) With these axles hopefully you have rear disc brakes...I have seen many people with 4.0L standard transmission on 35" with the stock dana 35 with the super kit or with just upgraded shafts and still running rear drum brakes...although I dont recommend it...having the ability to downshift definitely aids in the "slowing down" process
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Unread 08-05-2010, 08:13 PM   #20
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It all depends on what you want to spend. Me, I'm keeping my 33's and saving for everything I need to do a tummy tuck. I'd much prefer that over the guys that run 35's with a stock skid and transfer case drop cause they are always getting hung up on everything.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 08:20 PM   #21
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Your threads make me laugh... My previous post was refering to your idea that downshifting would make up for lack of brakes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by inglisleslie View Post
Just the price of the tires!
33" about $200
35" about $250
37" about $350

With 37"s you will want 5.13 gearing which means your dana 30 carrier is useless. You will need upgraded shafts on whatever rear axle your running (44, 8.8, 60 if your lucky!) With these axles hopefully you have rear disc brakes...I have seen many people with 4.0L standard transmission on 35" with the stock dana 35 with the super kit or with just upgraded shafts and still running rear drum brakes...although I dont recommend it...having the ability to downshift definitely aids in the "slowing down" process
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Unread 08-05-2010, 08:48 PM   #22
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I put together a pretty good build package for running 33's and I have no regrets. I'm running the smallest tires of all the Jeeps in my club and I'm able to run all the trails they do. Yes, I drag a bit more, have to pick my lines better and get a chance to use my winch more but I don't mind it at all. The other advantages are that its easier to climb into, I can drive to the trails, don't have to trailer and the medium trails aren't "boring". My rig is a good all around rig - good on the road, good on the trail. Another advantage is I seem to break a lot less than the bigger rigs that are putting more stress on the components. All I would have to do to go to 35's is add a bit of fender clearance but I'm really happy with the way it is now.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 08:55 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
Your threads make me laugh... My previous post was refering to your idea that downshifting would make up for lack of brakes.
i agree nothing beats the real thing...aka a big brake kit...And why do my threads make you laugh? I ask questions about others opinions and i have learned so much in the past 6 months from this forum. You have to know nothing to appreciate what you have learned...and trust me i have just started leaning about jeep stuff...I dont have a father who is mechanically inclined to teach me anything so all the stuff i lean i teach myself...I wish i was as lucky as some of you guys and could wheel with my pops and have him teach me lots of cool tricks...Maybe i can at least learn as much as i can so i can pass it down to my kids

Nothing beats bigger brakes

I do know from DH biking that the front brakes are about 65-70% of your power
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Unread 08-05-2010, 10:27 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jforse View Post
Yes, but it is considerably more $$ to move to 35's. How often do you hit the trail?
consider this, the difference is 1 inch from ground to center of hub. between 35's and 33's
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Unread 08-05-2010, 10:31 PM   #25
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You'll want 35's down the road trust me. I have 33's and haven.t had much trouble on the trails i've done and still want 35's. I just need to get a currie lift, upgrade my brakes, and some chromo axles up front.......... So three grand basically

My advice would be to get the hp30 no matter what because it'd only cost you three hundred more and you'll get an arb and on overall better axle. And you'll want 35's anways.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 10:44 PM   #26
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I have 33s now and am not sure whether I want 35s. My 33s will do the toughest trails in norcal... plus they're more manageable than 35s in every other condition. Think about a Land Rover. See any Defender 90s on 35s? That's because you don't need 35s unless you're running the Hammers in socal or something, and other than that it just raises your cog up that much higher. Getting your diffs higher is not that big of a deal, and most rocks are not big enough to require 35s. Not on the Rubicon, not on Fordyce.

Of course, when I say you don't need 35s... I mean you don't NEED them... the only advantage I can think of is that you can do certain things a little faster.

On 33s my Jeep looks sane. On 35s you're getting to the point of resembling a moving cube... people spending thousands of dollars to put slightly larger tires on a vehicle that will never be a buggy anyway... not always an advantage, although that's not to say I find it unreasonable. It's just debatable.
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Unread 08-06-2010, 12:22 AM   #27
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If you're really torn between 33's and 35's, you can search for some 34's!
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Unread 08-06-2010, 06:28 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
I built my rig for 35's+ about 3 years ago... I ran 33's until this past April.

My lift was too tall (for 33's, and the LCOG police would say too tall for 35's), my Gearing was too low (4.56's with 3sp auto) for much highway driving and my axles and other stuff (Brakes, etc) was overkill for 33's... I knew I was building for 35's and just wanted to get all of the other stuff ready before having the cash to do 35's.

I didn't run any super hard trails, but everywhere I went, I did absolutely as well as every guy out on the trails with 35's. There were areas where I wasn't getting hung up or stuck where guys I was wheeling with 35's did...

So I guess it depends on where you want to go. I didn't really plan on it taking me 3 years to go from 33's to 35's, but it did, and I think I'm fairly well setup now on 35's to do the trails that I plan on being able to do. It's not well setup for everywhere, but build it for the terrain you wheel in!
I pretty much did the same thing.


I got some odd looks running a RockJock 60 with 33's.

The clearance wasn't horrible since it's a RockJock and not just a regular Dana 60 but I still was careful and didn't off road much with the 33's. When I did, it did just fine.
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Unread 08-06-2010, 07:46 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtsquirt View Post
consider this, the difference is 1 inch from ground to center of hub. between 35's and 33's
You also gotta figure in the approach angle on obstacles, not just ground clearance.

Consider a 6" obstacle.

The difference between a 33" and 35" tire is approx 1.5* approach angle, the difference between 31" and 33" is almost 2*

If you bump the obstacle to 10" you are talking 2* between 33 and 35 and 2.5* between 31" and 33"

There is more to larger tires than just ground clearance, my experience has show me that 1 or 2* of rollover advantage is quite significant.
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Unread 08-06-2010, 09:18 AM   #30
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_Alex View Post
I have 33s now and am not sure whether I want 35s. My 33s will do the toughest trails in norcal... plus they're more manageable than 35s in every other condition. Think about a Land Rover. See any Defender 90s on 35s? That's because you don't need 35s unless you're running the Hammers in socal or something, and other than that it just raises your cog up that much higher. Getting your diffs higher is not that big of a deal, and most rocks are not big enough to require 35s. Not on the Rubicon, not on Fordyce.

Of course, when I say you don't need 35s... I mean you don't NEED them... the only advantage I can think of is that you can do certain things a little faster.

On 33s my Jeep looks sane. On 35s you're getting to the point of resembling a moving cube... people spending thousands of dollars to put slightly larger tires on a vehicle that will never be a buggy anyway... not always an advantage, although that's not to say I find it unreasonable. It's just debatable.
Don't take this the wrong way because it's not meant in a disparaging manner in the least. If you'd care to drive a bit this winter and do one day of riding along with us in JV, you would never make that last comment again.

Depending on terrain, it is not debateable in the slightlest.
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