I have electrical contact problems with 2000 TJ ignition switch which causes temporary loss of radio, turn signals etc. Found a thread that described removal of the lock, but not the ignition switch. The steering column does have the tilt wheel for what its worth in how to remove the switch assembly. Thanks a lot for any help on this,
Not sure what a tamper proof torix bit might be....I do know what a torix bit is though, so I will assume it is the same. If not, hopefully I can figure it out and get bit needed.
The Jeep would start but some of the instruments would go off, and then sometimes they would come back on...usually if I turned the ignition off then back on! Reading another post, it became apparent that the switch was going bad. Post said to jiggle the key and if the starter switch was bad, the instruments might come back on...which they did! Was headed in direction to remove and clean the ignition switch contacts (is accessible) or replace the switch. Has finally stopped raining so started to look into the Jeep problem again and saw the answer above. Had not had anyone respond so thanks a lot...should be able to remove the switch now. Really appreciate your time to respond with the youtube info.
So now the car does not even start; it turns over fine, but will not start, except it did only one time since it has quit starting. When it did, heard a high pitched very loud hissing sound near the power steering pump. But it has not started since! Humidity has been very, very high, so thought it might have moisture inside electrical somewhere, but no distributor so not sure where to look or open up.
The ignition switch does make contact and the motor turns over fine, so is there another circuit within the ignition switch that must be energized to actually start the engine, not just turn it over? Don't know if the fuel system and the spark system etc. is within the switch assembly. If so, that might be the reason it will not start at all now. Should have bought the Jeep book years ago.
Thanks much for your help. At least I have a place to start!
Oh...man , HF just recently had a sale on those and I passed...thought I had enough security bits Like I tell the wife (and then don't listen to me) you can never, never, have too many tools !
Good thing I was headed back to HF anyway for another tool . Maybe they will take pity on a really good customer...if I pout and blink slowly
Oh, and if I have to order, that might get me over $25 for free shipping, since I had another item in my cart just waiting.
And I'm a true patriot...trying to get the economy going again by my little part.
Found the bits...already had them. Took photo but this site requires pics be posted somewhere on the web. Might be nice if they upgraded to permit uploading direct to post. Now to the TJ.
Last edited by Crispy8743; 09-28-2009 at 08:53 AM..
I'm into the steering column but the assembly is not like shown in the video. Not even close! Appears there are only two torx mounting screws and they go up into the assembly from the bottom, not the side where the key enters. I did manage to disconnect the chime connector; that in itself is a war won since I hated that chime since day one.
Seems I remember a post in which an ignition switch was removed trying to fix a no start problem like mine, and bits I remember seemed similar to my situation. I have scoured the forum for that info but come up empty. Had a neighbor who used to rebuild jeeps for crawling Tellico but he is no longer here. Will have to get help or take to dealer soon. Running out of October.
I don't know if the 2000 is the same as my 97 (I know the 2000 has the chipped key ignition, which could be the source of your starting issue), but I've had mine apart several times now. There's 3 basic sections, on the right is the key cylinder which is released by turning it to the ON position and pressing a release button on the bottom. That connects to the steering wheel lock mechanism in the center which you access with two security torx from the bottom. Finally on the left side, directly opposite from the key is the ignition module. This a black square with a bunch of wires coming out, held in by one security torx on the top right.
From side opposite key, removed one torx screw, which released switch from remaining assembly. Ignition was locked (key was out). Still on side opposite key, released red keeper which enabled the connnector lock to be pressed and backed out; connector was then removed from assembly. Looking into the opening where the column lock pin enters the switch assembly, rotated the new switch internals to match the switch that was removed (use blade screwdriver and rotate internals) to match. Holding the new switch such that the protruding column lock pin enters straight into the new switch assembly, pressed new switch into same postion as old. Reinstalled connector, lock and keeper, and torx screw. Inserted key and turned to start engine. Smiled. No more krap to fix.