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#76 | ||
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!
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Quote:
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__________________
Idaho-Jeep Build = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/idaho-jeep-build-600683/ 2010 Moab trip thread = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f95/idaho-jeep-moab-2010-a-1038859/#post9520530 |
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#77 |
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Registered User
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Now you're talking. I've been researching the oil burner swaps too.
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#78 |
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!
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Today I finished the Install of the Rock Hard Sport Cage. Looks wonderful!! I sold my padding on craigslist and ordered some BSCI roll bar padding (the dense foam used in race cars). I will get some more photos after I get the padding on.
This is a pretty easy install but here is some write ups I looked at before doing my own. http://www.dualsport.info/rigs/tj/cage/cage.htm http://www.4x4xplor.com/rockhard-sportcage.html ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I also needed to pull my pitman arm off - MrBlaine is reaming out another one (as well as some knuckles to go with my Vanco brake kit) for me since my steering set up has larger ends. What a total PITA! I must have spent about 2 hours getting that thing off. I used a puller....., some PB blaster......, a hammer......, some more PB blaster...., a bigger hammer....., moved the puller and tightened it with an impact wrench......, a bigger big hammer....., a propane torch......, and.... and..... it FINALLY came off.
__________________
Idaho-Jeep Build = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/idaho-jeep-build-600683/ 2010 Moab trip thread = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f95/idaho-jeep-moab-2010-a-1038859/#post9520530 Last edited by Idaho-Jeep; 10-04-2008 at 11:19 PM.. |
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#79 |
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Registered User
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When are you gonna throw that lift on?? I am way to excited to see your project come together.
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Finally paid off... |
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#80 | |
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!
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Quote:
And, I am starting to hear about all the time I am spending in the garage from the wife.My axles are in the shop getting re-geared, locked and trusses welded on. I should have them back on Sunday and will start in on the lift next week. I hope.
__________________
Idaho-Jeep Build = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/idaho-jeep-build-600683/ 2010 Moab trip thread = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f95/idaho-jeep-moab-2010-a-1038859/#post9520530 |
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#81 |
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Member
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As mentioned in numerous post above that jeep will be Awsome. I am looking for some trusses also for my new axles. What kind did you get. I hope you will post some picstures when they are done.
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#82 |
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!
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I received and installed the roll bar pads.
I am really glad I went this route! I sold the old pads for $50 and spent about $90 for the new pads so I think it was worth the $40 I spent. I think this has a really professional look and they wont fade - it will also be a lot easier to clean than the old pads/cover was. These are pretty dense pads and are not spongy - similar to stock pads, but are much tougher and wont dent. They come with an adhesive on the inside so I just roughed up the paint on the bar and stuck it on. I used large mouth vice grips to hold in place for about 15 minutes and then moved on to the next one. They have been on for a few days now and are really stuck on. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
Idaho-Jeep Build = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/idaho-jeep-build-600683/ 2010 Moab trip thread = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f95/idaho-jeep-moab-2010-a-1038859/#post9520530 |
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#83 | |
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!
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Quote:
Both my D30 and D44 trusses came from TnT (www.tntcustoms.com). They are very well made and stout. They fit my axles perfectly - I spent maybe 15 minutes grinding a couple tight spots. The shop even charged me less than estimated to weld them on because they fit so well and there were no problems. I can't say enough good things about the quality of everything TnT makes. They don't have the superior customer service of some companies (not that it is terrible) - but their product is outstanding. Anyway, I picked up my axles today. They are OX locked I prepped and painted them (By the way, "Dogman" I took your advice and had the shop use a weld through primer prior to welding). The shop put the stock diff covers back on because the OX cable and cover needs to be installed at the same time. I will take care of that and the diff oil after I get the axles back under the jeep. Here are some shots of the axles: ![]() ![]() ![]() Does anyone need any 3.73 R&Ps? What am going to do with all these stock parts? I have a growing pile - I don't know what to do with. ![]()
__________________
Idaho-Jeep Build = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/idaho-jeep-build-600683/ 2010 Moab trip thread = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f95/idaho-jeep-moab-2010-a-1038859/#post9520530 |
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#84 |
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Registered User
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#85 |
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!
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So this weekend I finally started installing the lift - although I did not get that far.
I found no write up and very little information on the web regarding this TnT suspension lift. I have thought about doing a write up but instead will just post a lot of progress photos. now that I have my axles back, I should be able to make some headway in the coming week(s). I spoke to mrblaine tonight and he is getting my pitman arm and knuckles ready so I should see my Vanco brake kit in a week or so. (Blaine is VERY helpful on the phone by the way - Thanks Blaine!) As you look through these lift install photos, you might also want to look at the kit photos - see post #54 Step 1 - install the side frame mounts. These mount to the bottom and through the sides of the frame with crush sleeves. The front control arms will mount to these parts. ![]() ![]() Step 2 - install the TC support plate. This plate has a recessed and tapered mount plate within it that the threads extend through. I had to jack the TC up some to slide it in. I then let it down onto this plate and inserted the bolts. ![]() ![]() ![]() Step 3 - install the rear cross bar mount for the rear upper and lower control arms. Like the side frame mounts, this requires drilling drilling 3/4" holes into the frame. For this part however, through bolts are not used. "Bungs" are used and inserted into the hole and are then supposed to be welded to the frame. Since I don't have a welder (I really need to get a mig or little stick welder) I need to get someone to come over and do it for me. ![]() ![]() Here is a side view showing this rear cross bar. You can see the TnT bung towards the back and the stock bung in front. The TnT bung has a thicker lip and will make this cross bar sit at a slight angle which I am not sure about... I may install a washer between the plate and frame so it sits flush. ![]() So thats it... Did not get that far and will be held up until I can get someone to come over and spend about 10 minuets tacking those bungs...
__________________
Idaho-Jeep Build = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/idaho-jeep-build-600683/ 2010 Moab trip thread = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f95/idaho-jeep-moab-2010-a-1038859/#post9520530 |
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#86 |
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Registered User
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Wow this is a great build. You are doing a great job keep it up.
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#87 |
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Just violated my Parole
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you REEEEEALLY like Hammered Black dont you?
... I do to ![]() |
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#88 |
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!
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![]() Yea - actually I do - how can you tell? ![]() I made a mistake and bought more than twice what I needed too. ![]()
__________________
Idaho-Jeep Build = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/idaho-jeep-build-600683/ 2010 Moab trip thread = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f95/idaho-jeep-moab-2010-a-1038859/#post9520530 |
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#89 |
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Registered User
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You are a jeep god.. A well thought out plan, and excellently approach to the whole project. That hammerite stuff is my newest got to find. Did i read right ,that it also comes in rattlecan?
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A 13 week college for the phony tuff and the crazy brave. GOD PLEASE HELP US FOR THE STUPID KNOW NOT WHAT THEY HAVE DONE. |
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#90 |
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Brake Wizard
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley, California
Posts: 18,895
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Hammerite does indeed come in a rattle can. Be careful where you use it, sun fades it very badly and deteriorates it in short order.
__________________
I am Savvy I am handling the sales of Black Magic Brakes on www.blackmagicbrakes.com |
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