[never monday]

Seems like most people want 35’s for street or trail. I wrote this as a reference guide on what you’ll need to do it right. Yes, you can do it half way, or many other variations to these suggestions.

The preferred method
5-6” of lift.
This can be all suspension or a combination of suspension and body. If your going SL/BL most will say 4” SL and 1” BL. It could be done with a 2” budget boost and a 3” BL(but why).
Short or long arms are a personal choice. Stock arm’s aren’t an option above 3” of lift. You’ll need something with adjustment to recenter the axle.

Slip yoke eliminator and double Cardan drive shaft. Unless you have a Rubicon then just a CV shaft.

Decrease the up travel to keep the tires out of the fenders.
This can be done by lowering the stock bump stops or raising them from the bottom with hockey pucks. Ideally closing the gap on both the top and bottom is more effective.

Wheels,
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Axles
A stock Dana 35c won't last very long with the 35's. A Super kit. A Dana 44 replacement or 8.8 replacement.
A stock Dana 30 low pinion can be made to last with chrome molly shafts If your not over the edge hard core. A better option would be a High pinion Dana 30 from Cherokee with chrome molly shafts or the Super30 kit.
Rubicon 44's
Bring a different set of issues than the 30/35. The rear 44 will hold up fine stock. But it's always a good idea to upgrade the shafts to chromemoly.
The front 44 being a hybrid 44/30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all D30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and R44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromemoly shafts will help.
The R44 Front is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the LP30.
The 4.10 gears will have to go for anyone that doesn't live where it's flat.


Gears
4.88 for for manual transmissions in 4 or 6 cyl TJ's and 4 spd autos
4.56 for 3spd automatics
Some of the Rubicon owners have reported good results with 5.13 gears and 6spd man or 4spd auto.

Steering,
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. You might find the front tires rubbing the lower control arms or sway bar. This can be fixed by spacing out the steering stop bolt with washers.
A power steering system cooler is a great add on.

Brakes
I’m going to split this further into Automatic Vs Stick
Automatic, Upgrade them to Vanco.
Stick, They can work. But having upgraded brakes only makes sense.
Many people have reported good results from changing rotors and using better pads like EBC yellows.
Adding rear disk helps a little, but not significantly enough to justify the expense.

Tire coverage
Please check with you local state regs. You might need bigger flares and mud flaps.

Spare storage
A 35 is too big to ride on a stock carrier even with an extension. It will cause damage to the tailgate.
Get a frame or bumper mounted carrier. Or some other way to carry a spare.

LCG method

2.5” of lift or less
tube fenders or highline kit
trim the tub
steering as above
brakes as above
wheels and tires as above

[Mainejeepin]

Thanks for the list!

Someday....

[Unlimited04]

thanks!

see, shouldn't have deleted the other one

[AlTheKillerr]

i went with a MCG type setup. 3" lift and 1.25" BL no front fenders and no rear flares. just need to do the steering now

[Imped]

Hell yeah, great guide.

[Border Dave]

You didn't mention anything about a power steering cooler. Might not hurt to have one, huh?

[Sky Hye]

Yep, looks about right. Either do it right or dont do it at all IMO. Dont forget to include patience, a fat wallet and getting used to the creaks and noises...

And the stares

[RUBtjICON]

Nicely written. I'm getting there one small step at a time.

[never monday]

Originally Posted by Border Dave

You didn't mention anything about a power steering cooler. Might not hurt to have one, huh?

added.....

[msavard]

I can't recommend going low COG enough if you actually wheel it in the rocks or in an area with off camber stuff.

[RUBtjICON]

What if I want to run 37's? Then what

[Airdoc]

Subscribed......now I have to figure out which way to go....decisions..decisions..

[Rediron]

Great guide!!! This is just what I was looking for.

[USAFRecon]

I see you say upgrade to Vanco but I have read that if you upgrade to EBC pads and rotors you get the same results. Is this true? I see the slotted rotors are $170/pr and the pads are $137/pr so why not go with them? Just curious. And I also see you say to upgrade to HD Tie Rods what about Hydraulic Steering? Is it needed at this point with 35s? Just bought 35s and have everything in order but the brakes. Lookin for opinions here.

[never monday]

Originally Posted by USAFSahara

I see you say upgrade to Vanco but I have read that if you upgrade to EBC pads and rotors you get the same results. Is this true? I see the slotted rotors are $170/pr and the pads are $137/pr so why not go with them? Just curious. And I also see you say to upgrade to HD Tie Rods what about Hydraulic Steering? Is it needed at this point with 35s? Just bought 35s and have everything in order but the brakes. Lookin for opinions here.

I addressed the brake question

Brakes
I’m going to split this further into Automatic Vs Stick
Automatic, Upgrade them to Vanco.
Stick, They can work. But having upgraded brakes only makes sense.
Many people have reported good results from changing rotors and using better pads like EBC yellows.
Adding rear disk helps a little, but not significantly enough to justify the expense.

yes EBC's have been reported to work.

Are you asking about hydro assist or full hydraulic steering?
I don't see a need for either