I want to run 35's on my TJ - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 77 Old 05-23-2010, 09:56 AM
UltimateCC
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I went with the lcg method but its never ending be because once you fix one thing something else breaks or needs upgrading...it sure is fun though...

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post #17 of 77 Old 05-23-2010, 10:02 AM
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sticky please

1997 TJ - Build in process.
2004 WJ Freedom Edition 4.7HO
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post #18 of 77 Old 05-23-2010, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by USAFSahara View Post
I see you say upgrade to Vanco but I have read that if you upgrade to EBC pads and rotors you get the same results. Is this true? I see the slotted rotors are $170/pr and the pads are $137/pr so why not go with them? Just curious. And I also see you say to upgrade to HD Tie Rods what about Hydraulic Steering? Is it needed at this point with 35s? Just bought 35s and have everything in order but the brakes. Lookin for opinions here.
No you don't get the same results. And, even if you did, you've still failed to address the weak cast sliders that will flex further under the higher braking forces. You still haven't addressed a crappy weak stock caliper, and you haven't addressed the smallish rotor diameter.

You already have hydraulic steering.

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post #19 of 77 Old 05-23-2010, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
never monday
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sticky please
I prefer not, thanks
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post #20 of 77 Old 05-23-2010, 11:11 AM
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Prob a good idea to mention frame tie-ins for the tire carrier? 35 inch is heavy. Just my
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post #21 of 77 Old 05-23-2010, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
No you don't get the same results. And, even if you did, you've still failed to address the weak cast sliders that will flex further under the higher braking forces. You still haven't addressed a crappy weak stock caliper, and you haven't addressed the smallish rotor diameter.

You already have hydraulic steering.
Thanks Blaine. Next on my list is the EBC Rotors and pads and once I drive it a bit and see how I feel I will upgrade as necessary.
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post #22 of 77 Old 07-04-2010, 09:28 AM
Stubbs89
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LCG is the way to go it seems.
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post #23 of 77 Old 07-04-2010, 09:35 AM
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post #24 of 77 Old 07-04-2010, 09:47 AM
mrblaine
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not if you set it up wrong.
Or wheel where ground clearance is priceless.

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post #25 of 77 Old 11-14-2010, 05:43 PM
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what does LCG mean. might sound like a stupid question, but i'm slowly building up for 35's and i'll take any advice I can get.
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post #26 of 77 Old 11-14-2010, 05:48 PM
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what does LCG mean. might sound like a stupid question, but i'm slowly building up for 35's and i'll take any advice I can get.
LCG = Low Center of Gravity

LCG is typically defined as less than 1" of lift per 1" increase in tire size.

"old school" convention is typically 1" of lift per 1" increase in tire size.
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post #27 of 77 Old 11-14-2010, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
LCG is typically defined as less than 1" of lift per 1" increase in tire size.

"old school" convention is typically 1" of lift per 1" increase in tire size.
Don't you mean 1" of lift per 2" increase in tire size?

edit: Never mind, I was thinking bump stops.
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post #28 of 77 Old 01-27-2011, 10:16 PM
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sub'd
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post #29 of 77 Old 01-28-2011, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ironzap2 View Post
what does LCG mean. might sound like a stupid question, but i'm slowly building up for 35's and i'll take any advice I can get.

something like this i believe. -its my ultimate goal with enough money.

4-1/2" of lift total, some trimming, and BAM 42" of rubber!

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...rds/index.html
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post #30 of 77 Old 02-07-2011, 11:55 PM
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Maybe add info on how much total bump stop extension is needed to keep 35s out of stock fenders.
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