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I made a _____ for my TJ! (post your homemade Jeep stuff here)

3M views 4K replies 1K participants last post by  neto_09 
#1 ·
just thought it would be a neat idea if someone could start a thread with only pics and info on home mods. write-ups wouldn't have to be included but a link to one would be nice if it is available. if someone likes the idea, start it up!
 
#1,517 ·
I trust my welds. I'm experenced with a mig as I use it a fair amount at work, but I've also fabricated a lot of parts for turbo cars. I tig also, but just not anything as big as a bumper, haha. I really only tig stuff that is small and air/water tight, if I can help it ( or if its stainless ).

The attechment points of the bumper to the jeep are weaker than prob. any one part of any of the bumpers we've posted up lately on the last few pages. I think the underside tie-ins to the frame are really important in the rear b/c the rear bumper attechment points are thin little steel. I used 1/4'' steel to tie my bumper into the bottom of the frame in the rear.

I put so much sweat and time into the rear bumper I built, I said I'd never do it again, its worth the $350 to buy one to me, haha. $22 per 35 hours = over $700. Lucky for me, I did it on the clock, that also meant I had to hammer down before/after working on my bumper. Its also nice to use the shops consumables ( grinder wheels etc ). Plasma cutter is nice too.

As far as welds go, I've already tested mine on my front bumper to my 5.0 conversion 02' jeep when the 4.0L died.







Its part warn winch bumper with some REAL recovery points. We snatched my TJ home for about 35miles with it....
 
#1,520 ·
Locking storage to replace the rear seat in my wife's DD

I think the all pictures can be found here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34244936@N06

I hope to convert this version to 16ga steel, but for now, you'll get the idea from this 3/4" plywood version.
It bolts to the floor of my '04TJ using the bolts from the rear seat brackets.
There's a piece of angle iron attached to the rear gate which holds the hatchcover closed when the rear gate is closed. (This way it doen't need seperate locks.)

I used Contractor Lag Screws (sort of deck screws on steriods) and glue for this version

The original had a smaller deck (so it could be pulled in and out as a unit, but I wanted the deck larger to it has to be unscrewed from the frame as part of the removal.

The original had a hinged hatch, but I liked the removable hatch better so this one has two tabs that tuck under the deck in front then it's trapped under the gate angle iron when the rear gate is closed, locking the storage unit.

The individual pictures show the frame

The installed frame in the TJ

With the deck and hatch installed

The angle iron on the rear gate

Withe th rear gate closed

And with the dog's bed (pads from two lawn chairs) in place


In case you're wondering about the blue "string" in the pictures attached to the deck, it's our dog's safety attach point for when the top's off.
 
#1,521 ·
I think the all pictures can be found here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34244936@N06

I hope to convert this version to 16ga steel, but for now, you'll get the idea from this 3/4" plywood version.
It bolts to the floor of my '04TJ using the bolts from the rear seat brackets.
There's a piece of angle iron attached to the rear gate which holds the hatchcover closed when the rear gate is closed. (This way it doen't need seperate locks.)

I used Contractor Lag Screws (sort of deck screws on steriods) and glue for this version

The original had a smaller deck (so it could be pulled in and out as a unit, but I wanted the deck larger to it has to be unscrewed from the frame as part of the removal.

The original had a hinged hatch, but I liked the removable hatch better so this one has two tabs that tuck under the deck in front then it's trapped under the gate angle iron when the rear gate is closed, locking the storage unit.

The individual pictures show the frame

The installed frame in the TJ

With the deck and hatch installed

The angle iron on the rear gate

Withe th rear gate closed

And with the dog's bed (pads from two lawn chairs) in place


In case you're wondering about the blue "string" in the pictures attached to the deck, it's our dog's safety attach point for when the top's off.
Really? Do we have to have the post that says "Click free! :thumbsup:"

Put the IMG tag in front and back of your pics and it doesn't matter if you've had 1 post it will show the picture. :rolleyes:
 
#1,522 ·
I try to use my jobs welders and consumables as much as possible! Haha, I TIG welded almost everything on my bumper. The only things that I MIG welded were the clevis tabs, and the trailer hitch. I prefer TIG, just because there isn't any spatter, and its easy to do intricate work with. Mig is nice because its quick and easy, and stick is nice if you need to lay some serious welds. I really only use arc welding for heavy equipment repairs.
 
#1,529 ·
You can lay serious welds with MIG... Run some .045 dual core like I did when I built rail cars (which carried many tons of weight...)

Also, if MIG it tuned right (VERY fine tuning) there will be zero spatter. Even then if there is any it scratches right off with a slag hammer...

Very nice welds though. I wish I would have learned TIG :(

Someday! :thumbsup:
 
#1,531 ·
I made myself a custom storage setup.

I took a plastic bin from Wally World and used U-bolts to mount a shovel on the lid:


Then, I drilled a hole in the side to put a pin through and hold the box in the Jeep.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content



I eventually plan to have another box, and I'll figure out how to bolt them together.
 
#1,535 ·
Nice unit. How much did it cost you?
 
#1,536 ·
Here in Canada just before the $ droped it was $2800 for the welder and the blue box with all the goodies
was $700 cdn before tax all in all it was 4 g's but it will last forever.
This is a ac/dc unit so it will weld aluminium as well.
Most people won't need such a over the top item.Mine is a Dynesty 200 DX But a good one for most whold be this one.It is tig and arc but only DC.
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/econotig/
I like mine cus it'll run of 110v,220, three fase with out telling it. I run on 110 for now and have had it up to180a or so.
 
#1,540 ·
a front bumper.. i'll be makin a back one with a rear tire swing too

 
#1,541 ·
Great thread - have only gone through 16 pages but look forward to the rest.

I made a tire mount for inside my heep. It removes the swingout that was giving me problems - swingout was fine but every time I got backed into a tree it would flex in and bend my tailgate.

This mount allows the back seat to fit upright with clearance, but it does eat up some visibility and isn't ideal for the road. But it is great for wheelin, and is easy enough to remove that I pull it out when I'm around town.

CR





this is why I love it - my jeep is 16" shorter, and that's a lot - especially on an LJ that's already too big for some tight trails!!

I have since ditched the factory soft top and run a bikini which works great. Since we're on the topic, I made that stencil too. It was intended for my CJ-5 project, but that's taking longer than anticipated and I wanted to try it out, so the LJ got it. Kinda a "dee de dee" to the non-jeepers that ask me "Do you take that in the mud or something?" and the mall-crawl H2 owners that don't know their vehicle has 4wd haha.

 
#1,542 · (Edited)
Great thread - have only gone through 16 pages but look forward to the rest.

I made a tire mount for inside my heep. It removes the swingout that was giving me problems - swingout was fine but every time I got backed into a tree it would flex in and bend my tailgate.

This mount allows the back seat to fit upright with clearance, but it does eat up some visibility and isn't ideal for the road. But it is great for wheelin, and is easy enough to remove that I pull it out when I'm around town.

CR

this is why I love it - my jeep is 16" shorter, and that's a lot - especially on an LJ that's already too big for some tight trails!!

I have since ditched the factory soft top and run a bikini which works great. Since we're on the topic, I made that stencil too. It was intended for my CJ-5 project, but that's taking longer than anticipated and I wanted to try it out, so the LJ got it. Kinda a "dee de dee" to the non-jeepers that ask me "Do you take that in the mud or something?" and the mall-crawl H2 owners that don't know their vehicle has 4wd haha.

Any more pictures and details?

Wow not sure why I couldn't see those pictures before. Looks good I like it. I am also debating what to do with my spare. Right not its in the tub and the rear seat is out. Considering keeping it that way.
 
#1,543 ·
Here's a close up of the clamp, but that's all I got. The welds were done outside and before I spent a thousand hours burning CJ-5 frame so they are a bit rough, but they're strong enough for this. There are 3 passes, the top one is a bit spotty (used it to fill in low spots).

The clamps are Rock Hard 4x4 (the guys that make the bolt in cage), other than that just a piece of tubing bent to fit and I cheated & bought a tire mount plate for like $5 at the PA Jeep show, it was 5/8" thick and pre-drilled I figured I'd put that much into drill bits and grinding wheels if I cut my own!

 
#1,553 ·
If you were wanting more visibility, you could possibly turn the mount upright and hold the tire horizontally, that way you would have storage under it and it shouldn't be much higher than the rear seat. It would stick out over the tailgate and you would lose part of that 16" or so that you said you gained.

Looks good, I like it.
 
#1,551 ·
Wish I had some - it's still in pieces! I'm in the middle of a frame-off, the frame repair work is finished but it's too cold to POR-15 it so it's stored in the shed until it's warm enough to coat. In the meantime I'm going to rebuild the T-150 (cheap kit from Novak - why not) and finish up a few odds and ends on the motor (rear main seal, etc). And keep searching for a steel tub at the right price!
 
#1,546 ·
BUMP for new Ideas
 
#1,547 ·
I made a simple, dirt cheap way to hold the rear seat in when it's folded forwards. I don't know about you, but mine always falls out of those damn mounts when i go on a trail with it folded.

Anyways, i just drilled the two pins that insert into the mount, and put a cotter pin through :)
so cheap, and so easy.
 
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