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I made a _____ for my TJ! (post your homemade Jeep stuff here)

3M views 4K replies 1K participants last post by  neto_09 
#1 ·
just thought it would be a neat idea if someone could start a thread with only pics and info on home mods. write-ups wouldn't have to be included but a link to one would be nice if it is available. if someone likes the idea, start it up!
 
#1,392 ·
nope the origianl tray is still used... so nothing really got changed other than moving the fuse box forward (even this wasnt nessesary but i just wanted a little more room to get my hand in. so the battery sensor didn't change. and ya optima's can be mounted in any position. they are suppsoed to be more resistant to vibration as well. so good for offroad. not sure what vibration does to a battery but they say its more resistant so :)
 
#1,395 ·
Custom trunk and subwoofer enclosure

I built a custom "instatrunk" that also houses my subwoofer and amplifier. I had one of these in my old YJ in college, and actually still had the old sub and amp, so I made another to fit my TJ. It's basically 3/4" MDF with 2.25" drywall screws holding it together. I used silicone to seal the joints both for acoustics and to keep the rain out (that we get about 2 x a year). The internal volume for the sub is 0.60 cubic feet, unusually small for a 10" sub, which is why I chose the Kicker Solobaric way back when. The paint is Krylon flat black I had laying around, over some Krylon gray primer I also had laying around. I plan to cover the top with carpet or something, but I'll get to that eventually.

The back seat still folds and tumbles due to the relief cut in the front driver's side corner. However, I have to release and swing the whole seat up on the front hinge first, then when it's up in the air 45 degrees I can fold the upright portion down and complete the process.

I intended on bolting it to the floor initially, but laziness took over. Turns out it fits SO tight side to side that it's tough to move to begin with. Also, with the back seat down and locked and the tailgate locked, it is even harder to pull straight up simply because the seat prevents the larger bottom from coming up. I may still anchor it, but for now it's hopefully not going anywhere.

As far as sound quality, it made a 200% difference! I have a Kenwood HU and aftermarket speakers in all four corners, but it still made a drastic improvement. Especially on the highway, you can still hear all the music. It would be even mo better if my HU had a crossover that could do the hi-pass/lo-pass thing as right now the sub and the four speakers all receive the full spectrum. But it's good enough for now.

I can give any specific measurements or more photos to anyone interested, but the pics here about sum it up.

Shots of all the pieces put together, with the sub's enclosure still not attached to the inside.



Shots of the whole shebang from the front, on the floor and in the Jeep



Out of the Jeep but painted


Installed from the top


Installed from the back
 
#1,396 ·
Hardtop Cart

I put together a hardtop storage cart, the idea for which I got from this exact thread. Design credit goes to all of you who built this first! It was pretty simple really, so many thanks to those of you who posted all the measurements and specs and pictures of yours.

Bascially a bunch of 2x4's, a few 1x2's, some screws, 2 casters, and 2 locking casters. The clips are to simply hold the window in the closed position.




This is the "blueprint" I got from this forum and used explicitly, reposted hopefully with permission!
 
#1,397 ·
I built a rear stinger/tire carrier too...:cheers2: Still have a little bit of work to do. Might add a few tubes to support a skid on the lower portion, like Poison Spyder... I'm thinking I might install my air tank under the tire for my OBA... Kinda looks like I'll have to build my own tank/s, there's not enough room for one of those portable air tanks. Obviously it still needs some grinding, prepping and painting.



 
#1,405 ·
bump, is this long enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
#1,409 ·
Hey, thanks for bumpin' the thread!:thumbsup:
 
#1,414 ·
That's not a truss! It looks more like an axle with it's own frame!:laugh:
 
#1,421 ·
Okay, so until I can upgrade my D35....

I saw this recovery device, in case your c-clip goes.



I went out and for about $30, I made my own. Bought a 48" nipple of 3/4" "black pipe" from Home depot, iron but not galvanized. I then cut it the middle. This gave me 2 pieces with a threaded end on one end. Disregard the quick link you see here. I took the pic's after I welded them on. ($11.00)



Same shopping trip, bought 2ea 1/2" quick links and welded them onto the non-threaded end. (2 X $4.30)



Slid some 1 1/4" pvc pipe over it to act as a "bearing" surface. ($4.00)



Then I screwed on a 3/4" union (not "coupler"). This allows me so separate the unit in half for easier storage but to quickly assemble it. The union also keeps the pvc pieces separate, this is important because they will be rotating in different directions. ($8.50)



The completed c-clip recovery tool. I think, in hindsight, I should have gone with 1" but tghis seems stout enough. Yes, I know that the pvc will be shredded, but it will serve the purpose and then can be replaced. You could also just leave the pipe in one piece but after you weld on the quick links, you would have no way to replace the pvc (but then again, for the cost, a one-time tool might be worth it). If you do not have access to a welder you might want to think about buying the one shown. I figure at the price they are charging it would be worth it, especially considering that they say their rollers have bearings in them. They want like $125.00 for them.

And this is why you might want one...

http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/
 
#1,423 ·
3rd Brake Light Lift



Finally found a universal spare tire adapter for my tj to fit 5x5 bolt pattern on it. BUT! The 3rd brake light needed to be lifted 4" (im not too crazy about NOT having one). Instead of spending over 30$ on a adapter for the brake light... I got creative. I had to drill thru the existing holes used for mounting the light getting rid of the threading, so I can use the right length bolt (none that size threaded into the current holes). Took metal tubing that would sort of support between the light and spare tire bracket. Re wired the light, bolted it up and good to go. Cost about 3$ and of course, a few hours of work.
 
#1,426 ·
#1,429 ·
so i came across this thread you guys NEED to check out, these guys over in the middle east do all their fab work and its amazing!!! hope the mods dont kick this off, cuz im amazed at what these guys can do with very little tools!!!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=469544
 
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