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Unread 01-30-2008, 09:25 PM   #466
Justin Brimm
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chatsworth, CA
Posts: 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by mall0y
$7 bucks??? Damn, I just went to radio shack and spent $15 on the stuff that I need. I didn't assemble it yet, but I will this weekend. What all did you get? Heres my shopping list:
  • Inline fuse holder - $2.99
  • Rocker Switch (nothing fancy) - $2.99
  • 4-Pack of fuse taps - $1.99
  • 20 ft. roll of 12guage wire - $4.99
  • 1 10A fuse - $1.99

Everything came out to $14.95.
Probably because he didn't buy any fuse related items when he did his, which is perfectly fine as you don't need a fuse in this situation. All you are doing when you do this mod is adding a switch into an existing fused circuit, so if anything shorts out including the new switch you have added, the factory fuse will blow all the same.

A good rule of thumb, is if you are simply modifying an existing fused circuit, you do not need to add a fuse. If you however, are creating a new circuit or modifying an existing un-fused circuit, you need to add a fuse.

Of course, when in doubt, fuse it. This case however, it is not needed and you can take the fuse holder, fuse taps and fuse back. You also got ripped off on the fuse; you can get an assorted 20 pack of them at any auto or electronics shop for $5 bucks.

One last thing; Radio-shack last I checked, only carries solid-core wire, not stranded (braided) wiring. Solid core is fine for electronics projects, but braided wiring must be used in automotive conditions as solid-core breaks after repeated bending where braided does not, and the vibrations of a vehicle will make the solid-core break apart.

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Unread 01-30-2008, 09:40 PM   #467
rmb2485
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2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Posts: 1,288
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Brimm
so if anything shorts out including the new switch you have added, the factory fuse will blow all the same.
If the switch were to 'short out' (not really even the right term here) in the closed position it would just be as if the switch didn't exist and the circuit was unmodified. If it 'shorted out' in the open position then no current could flow through it. Either way, the switch will NEVER blow ANY fuse no matter how hard you try.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Brimm
One last thing; Radio-shack last I checked, only carries solid-core wire, not stranded (braided) wiring. Solid core is fine for electronics projects, but braided wiring must be used in automotive conditions as solid-core breaks after repeated bending where braided does not, and the vibrations of a vehicle will make the solid-core break apart.
True, but I've bought braided wire at RadioShack before. I wouldn't recommend it because its insanely over priced just like everything else there, but they do have it.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 09:43 PM   #468
mall0y
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Northeast PA
Posts: 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Brimm
Probably because he didn't buy any fuse related items when he did his, which is perfectly fine as you don't need a fuse in this situation. All you are doing when you do this mod is adding a switch into an existing fused circuit, so if anything shorts out including the new switch you have added, the factory fuse will blow all the same.

A good rule of thumb, is if you are simply modifying an existing fused circuit, you do not need to add a fuse. If you however, are creating a new circuit or modifying an existing un-fused circuit, you need to add a fuse.

Of course, when in doubt, fuse it. This case however, it is not needed and you can take the fuse holder, fuse taps and fuse back. You also got ripped off on the fuse; you can get an assorted 20 pack of them at any auto or electronics shop for $5 bucks.

One last thing; Radio-shack last I checked, only carries solid-core wire, not stranded (braided) wiring. Solid core is fine for electronics projects, but braided wiring must be used in automotive conditions as solid-core breaks after repeated bending where braided does not, and the vibrations of a vehicle will make the solid-core break apart.
I'm no electrician but do have a reasonable amount of experience with wiring and the like. I saw the setup for sale in the Q-tec magazine and decided to replicate it. Then I found this write up: http://www.4x4icon.com/offroad/dome_...itch/index.htm .

So this is more or less what I am going to do. It's basically just "moving" the fuse from the fusebox to the inline holder. Also, the wire I picked up is braided. Don't worry, I wouldn't have even thought of using solid core. As for the fuse, it was there, so was I, the auto part store was another 5 minutes down the road, I bought it, it's all good. Normally I wouldn't get this kind of stuff from radio-shack but it was actually cheaper than the local auto parts store.

Last edited by mall0y; 01-30-2008 at 10:04 PM..
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Unread 01-30-2008, 09:51 PM   #469
rmb2485
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2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Posts: 1,288
Quote:
Originally Posted by mall0y
I'm no electrician but do have a reasonable amount of experience with wiring and the like. I saw the setup for sale in the Q-tec magazine and decided to replicate it. Then I found this write up: http://www.4x4icon.com/offroad/dome_...itch/index.htm .

So this is more or less what I am going to do. Also, the wire I picked up is braided. Don't worry, I wouldn't have even thought of using solid core. As for the fuse, it was there, so was I, the auto part store was another 5 minutes down the road, I bought it, it's all good. Normally I wouldn't get this kind of stuff from radio-shack but it was actually cheaper than the local auto parts store.
Ok, by that writeup you do need a fuse because you're essentially removing the factory fuse. The way I did mine and I think how most people do theirs is to snip one of the wires behind the factory fuse and put a switch in-line. In that case all you're doing is using the switch to make or break the connection between the dome light and the factory fuse.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 09:55 PM   #470
mall0y
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Northeast PA
Posts: 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb2485
Ok, by that writeup you do need a fuse because you're essentially removing the factory fuse. The way I did mine and I think how most people do theirs is to snip one of the wires behind the factory fuse and put a switch in-line. In that case all you're doing is using the switch to make or break the connection between the dome light and the factory fuse.
Correct, this is what I was going for. This way you don't have to worry about cutting any wires and whatnot. So, if I ever wanted to remove the switch, It's as simple as replacing a fuse.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 10:07 PM   #471
Justin Brimm
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chatsworth, CA
Posts: 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb2485
If the switch were to 'short out' (not really even the right term here) in the closed position it would just be as if the switch didn't exist and the circuit was unmodified. If it 'shorted out' in the open position then no current could flow through it. Either way, the switch will NEVER blow ANY fuse no matter how hard you try.
I just meant in general anything he adds to the circuit will be protected by the factory fuse already in the circuit. Sorry if I wasn't entirely clear about what I meant.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb2845
Ok, by that writeup you do need a fuse because you're essentially removing the factory fuse.
I didn't know he was cutting the factory fuse out of the circuit; if you are doing that, definitely add another fuse! But there's really no reason to cut the factory fuse out of the circuit. All you have to do is tap the switch into the 12v+ and ground wires of the original circuit.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 11:37 PM   #472
97MilitaryTJ
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Misawa, Japan
Posts: 210
Quote:
Originally Posted by frankiejr
Jappe, I'd love to see more pics of that hard tonneau cover, if you have any. That thing looks sweet. Looks aluminum... home made, right?
Could you post a shoot of you rear gate open? Did you weld and graft the lower portion of the door to the jeep? Nice looking job....
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Unread 02-01-2008, 11:56 AM   #473
OrionAZ
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tampa, Fl
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I made a trailer

About two years ago I built that. It tows great and keeps us dry and warm. http://picasaweb.google.com/Ellswort...79626624626754
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OrionAZ
2000 Sport Wrangler, I6 4.0L Dana 30-35 3.73
Mods so far - After market A/C, Security system, Custom made add a trunk, Black bezels, 3" Full Traction lift, Bridgestone dueler revo 31x10.5x15 tires on Black steeles. Still Married!
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Unread 02-01-2008, 05:54 PM   #474
Thunderstrike
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2009 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 3,136
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrionAZ
About two years ago I built that. It tows great and keeps us dry and warm. http://picasaweb.google.com/Ellswort...79626624626754
That's a nice tear drop trailer. Can you tell me how much money and labor hours it took?
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Protection: Skid Row Engine Skid, Lower Control Arm skid & Evaporator Skid; Rock Hard Gas Tank Skid; Warn Stainless Steel Differential Skid Front & Rear.
Recovery Gear: Warn 9.5Ti Winch, 11,000# Pull-Pal.
Communication: Uniden 520XL CB, Diesel External Speaker, 3' FireStik Whip.
Shrockworks Mid-width Front Bumper with Warn 9.5Ti Winch -- Ordered 7/17/2009; Bumper Received 12/4/2009.
1" Coil Spacer Front & 1/2" Coil Spacer Rear restored OEM Rake.
4x4 Trips:
Moab - 4/2006, 5/2008, 4/2009, 5/2011, 4/2013
Ouray - 8/2007
Rubicon - 9/2008
Gone, but not forgotten: 2004 TJ, 1999 Audi A4, 1992 VW Jetta GL 5 Speed
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Unread 02-01-2008, 06:33 PM   #475
OrionAZ
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
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About $5000 and 3 months of night and weekends. PM me your email and I will send you some others pics. The Trailer is sitting on a 5000 lb axle and custom frame its warm in the winter but you cook outside. The back hatch covers a full gally kitchen.
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OrionAZ
2000 Sport Wrangler, I6 4.0L Dana 30-35 3.73
Mods so far - After market A/C, Security system, Custom made add a trunk, Black bezels, 3" Full Traction lift, Bridgestone dueler revo 31x10.5x15 tires on Black steeles. Still Married!
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Unread 02-02-2008, 12:39 PM   #476
JWitt333
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Near Galveston Bay, Texas
Posts: 526
i did not not buy any fuses, I cut the wires behind the fuse box. the only real expense was the switch. i bought enough wire to do multiple projects. this was the cheapest mod i have ever done...
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'99 Gunmetal TJ
Blue Jeep Club Member #256
4" RC X-Series, 1in BL
Rokmen Armor
KC Day Lighters, 33 BFG M/T
with more to come
OlllllllO
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Unread 02-02-2008, 06:02 PM   #477
sweetguardian00
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1946 CJ2A 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Posts: 573
I made custom reverse lights for my TJ, they look stock and only cost $20.00
and a shock........they actually make a difference
id add pics if i knew how

cam
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Unread 02-02-2008, 07:09 PM   #478
rmb2485
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2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Posts: 1,288
Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetguardian00
I made custom reverse lights for my TJ, they look stock and only cost $20.00
and a shock........they actually make a difference
id add pics if i knew how

cam
Upload the pics to photobucket or some other photo site then post links to them here. One of us will make them click free for you because you need 50 posts to do that.
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Unread 02-03-2008, 09:01 AM   #479
ZBDsTJ
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2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 64
back window holder-upper

How about this? Hate to roll up your back window when it's dirty or crusty, or lay it someplace when you get to your wheelin' spot? Or even leave it at home when it's a little chilly or raining or ...? I fixed mine so it would swing in toward the roll bar and tie up out of the way. Take the tailgate bar out of the bottom of the window. On the front side, the side that goes against the black metal piece on the tub, you will see a hollow plastic piece about 3 or 4 inches long. Thread a shoe string, leather or webbing (I used an old dog leash about 1/2" wide) from the inboard side through to the out side and back through to the inboard side and tie a knot. Now you should have a loop ont the outboard side and a knot on the inboard side. Swing the window inward toward the back of the front seats and tie it off to the roll bar through the loops you just made at each end of the tailgate bar. Cheap, easy, no scratches, you've got your back window for the ride home. Took it for, a spin yesterday with no front door uppers, did have the rear sides on, and it doesn't flop around. Had it up to 65 or so. "I just love it when a plan comes together." Just an idea.
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Unread 02-03-2008, 10:42 PM   #480
JWitt333
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Near Galveston Bay, Texas
Posts: 526
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZBDsTJ View Post
How about this? Hate to roll up your back window when it's dirty or crusty, or lay it someplace when you get to your wheelin' spot? Or even leave it at home when it's a little chilly or raining or ...? I fixed mine so it would swing in toward the roll bar and tie up out of the way. Take the tailgate bar out of the bottom of the window. On the front side, the side that goes against the black metal piece on the tub, you will see a hollow plastic piece about 3 or 4 inches long. Thread a shoe string, leather or webbing (I used an old dog leash about 1/2" wide) from the inboard side through to the out side and back through to the inboard side and tie a knot. Now you should have a loop ont the outboard side and a knot on the inboard side. Swing the window inward toward the back of the front seats and tie it off to the roll bar through the loops you just made at each end of the tailgate bar. Cheap, easy, no scratches, you've got your back window for the ride home. Took it for, a spin yesterday with no front door uppers, did have the rear sides on, and it doesn't flop around. Had it up to 65 or so. "I just love it when a plan comes together." Just an idea.
any pics????
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'99 Gunmetal TJ
Blue Jeep Club Member #256
4" RC X-Series, 1in BL
Rokmen Armor
KC Day Lighters, 33 BFG M/T
with more to come
OlllllllO
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