I made a _____ for my TJ! (post your homemade Jeep stuff here) - Page 27 - JeepForum.com

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post #391 of 3568 Old 01-06-2008, 08:04 PM
JeepRocks86
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I didn't do this but a lady in my club built this for her samurai. I know it's not a jeep and I didn't do it, but I thought it was really cool and would pass it along











I finally got my Hobart 187 wired and working woo hoo


Stretched TJ , Coil overs, 42" IROKS, 60/14 bolt...
'95 YJ fuel injected 302, 8.8, cage, ARBs.
'04 QC LB Cummins 4x4
My TJ Build Thread.
www.kifourwheelers.com
For Sale:
TJ Rear Dana 44 shaftsfor sale
3 11"& 2 13" BBCS shocks



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post #392 of 3568 Old 01-06-2008, 09:51 PM
mustangtoby
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Location: sw colorado
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Try to get some pics soon. not quite at 50 posts yet.
Built front bumper
Built wich plate for bumper
Built rear bumper, also with tire carrier
Added a rear cooler rack above spare tire with quick release pins, CB ant mount also on rear tire carrier
Built rocker protection, bolted solid to body, with intagrated nerf bars

Once you start, you never stop.
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post #393 of 3568 Old 01-06-2008, 10:02 PM
PBR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangtoby
Try to get some pics soon. not quite at 50 posts yet.
Built front bumper
Built wich plate for bumper
Built rear bumper, also with tire carrier
Added a rear cooler rack above spare tire with quick release pins, CB ant mount also on rear tire carrier
Built rocker protection, bolted solid to body, with intagrated nerf bars

Once you start, you never stop.
true that man! JEEP= just empty every pocket!
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post #394 of 3568 Old 01-08-2008, 11:17 AM
chappy84
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Hard wired and mounted sirius, added custom revers lights and wired up my own Spod.




-CHAPPY-
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post #395 of 3568 Old 01-08-2008, 03:56 PM
Red2001sport
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Are thos easy to wire up

Are those easy to wire up? Im looking to add some reverse and underground lights that i can put on separate switches, doable?
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post #396 of 3568 Old 01-08-2008, 04:20 PM
chappy84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red2001sport
Are those easy to wire up? Im looking to add some reverse and underground lights that i can put on separate switches, doable?
Yes, vary doable Check out www.stu-offroad.com Whe you get to his home page click on the "electrical" icon and read up! Stu's web site is full of amazing info for any do it yourselfer's.

-CHAPPY-
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post #397 of 3568 Old 01-11-2008, 09:08 PM
UTmike
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On Board Misting System And Faucet

I got this idea from someone else on the forum here but I added a faucet to it. I built this while living in Texas where it's quite a bit hotter than here in MO. The water supply is a jerry can on the tire carrier, and I used a RV water pump that shoots out the faucet at 45psi and 3 gallons per minute. Two of the misters use .75 gallons/hour each, and the other two use 1 gallon/hour each. So the tank of water last me a long time.

This shows the four bolts holding the pump on the opposite side of the wheel where there's a large empy space.
misting-002.jpg

This is the water pump
misting-003.jpg

This is the mister. I've since cut that zip tie and straightened things out a bit
misting-016.jpg

I wired the pump up to a switch so I can turn it on or off with the flick of the switch in the cab. The other two switches I wired at the same time were for my front a rear spot lights.
mist-005.jpg

mist-006.jpg

4.5" RE Long Arm, 37" Mud Grapplers on Beadlocks, OX Locked Dana 60s front and rear
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post #398 of 3568 Old 01-11-2008, 09:11 PM
06flex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chappy84
Yes, vary doable Check out www.stu-offroad.com Whe you get to his home page click on the "electrical" icon and read up! Stu's web site is full of amazing info for any do it yourselfer's.
While you are there might want to look around and then make a small donation to keep this great site running

Stu website supporter. http://www.stu-offroad.com/
One of the best jeep websites out there for reference. If you can help please do.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/environment.htm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
You didn't correct the problem, you only worked around the real problem.
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post #399 of 3568 Old 01-11-2008, 09:12 PM
UTmike
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This is the faucet that shoots out at 45psi. It's since been secured to the body lift mount.
mist-016.jpg

mist-021.jpg

4.5" RE Long Arm, 37" Mud Grapplers on Beadlocks, OX Locked Dana 60s front and rear
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post #400 of 3568 Old 01-11-2008, 09:35 PM
UTmike
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Hard deck cover

I recently replaced my Bestop deck cover with a home made hard deck cover to give me a place to lock stuff up. I haven't had my back seat in the jeep since I bought it so no loss there. I have two 2x4s going across in between the sides for support and used a marine grade vinyl to cover it with.
59.jpg

I put a lip on the front to keep the water that collects on it from running into the cab
61.jpg

I built it to fit with the top on so I can put the full top on during the winter still
65.jpg

4.5" RE Long Arm, 37" Mud Grapplers on Beadlocks, OX Locked Dana 60s front and rear
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post #401 of 3568 Old 01-11-2008, 09:39 PM
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This is the front that I built. The hinges are sturdy but aren't strong enough to withstand someone prying them off. But it's a pretty good deterrent
55.jpg

I made a sliding door so I can throw my backpack or whatever else I have with me in there quick and easy without pulling the passenger seat forward.
56.jpg

And then I made the whole thing to fold foward so I can load large things in
57.jpg

4.5" RE Long Arm, 37" Mud Grapplers on Beadlocks, OX Locked Dana 60s front and rear
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post #402 of 3568 Old 01-12-2008, 06:11 PM
BradG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UTmike
This is the front that I built. The hinges are sturdy but aren't strong enough to withstand someone prying them off. But it's a pretty good deterrent
Attachment 41961

I made a sliding door so I can throw my backpack or whatever else I have with me in there quick and easy without pulling the passenger seat forward.
Attachment 41962

And then I made the whole thing to fold foward so I can load large things in
Attachment 41963
Dude... how much you want for putting one of those in my jeep?

2003 TJ X Silver | 31x10.50x15 BFG A/Ts | 10k front tow hooks, factory rear tow hook | 2" coil spacers | Cobra 19 with RatShack 102" stainless whip on an Arizona RockyRoad tire carrier mount | Kilby Steering Box Skid | AtoZ Fabrication Rock Sliders | Olympic Slider Rear Bumper w Receiver | Skid Row Engine/Oil/Tranny skid (still sitting in my living room)
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post #403 of 3568 Old 01-12-2008, 08:24 PM
matts65ss
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man this is an awsome thread!!!!!!!

has anyone made some quick disconnects for the front sway bar?
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post #404 of 3568 Old 01-12-2008, 08:46 PM
BaddAndy
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Today I made seat risers using 1 1/4" square tube between the seat frame and sliders. 8 hours, and I was even doing it by a thread on the Rubi Forum a guy at work put up. A pain in the ***, but 10 times better than just the blocks.
I made discos by taking off the axle side bolt, drilling a hole at the end for a pin, cutting the excess off, then securing the bolt with the stock nut cut in half. Slide on a washer, then link, another washer, pin, then done.

http://www.******************.com/ph...d4db0eac7339fc

I got part way through my homebuilt seat lift today and just wanted to say "holy cr@p! There's carpet under all that soil!" My wife suggested that while I had all the seats out to take the opportunity to vacuum out the inside and wow!

I read all the previous posts regarding how to proceed towards correcting DC's error with setting the seat height. In the end, I went to Home Depot and bought a couple 4' lengths of 1 1/4" square tubing, end caps, 12 - 3/8" x 2 1/2" bolts, 12 - Nylon lock nuts, Primer, and Paint. I'm putting the tubing between the seat riser and the sliders, instead of a under-the-bracket spacer like the on-line kit you can buy. This is a personal choice that will hopefully end up a clean install with an OEM look.

Here's the supplies I purchased:

Two 4' lengths of 1 1/4" square tubing. I might raise the back seat with the left over steel, not sure right now.

It comes oily, so I cleaned it up with some carb cleaner and paper towels.

I bought lots of extra paint so I can do the wheels next. Rustoleum Auto Sand-able Black Primer and Satin Black.

Here's the end caps that will help finish it off, make sure you get the right size for your tubes and enough for both ends on both seats, 8 in my case.


Here's the progress so far:

The seat and slider before disassembly:
From the side:

...and from in front of the driver's seat:

Here's the stock view of the seats from the side:


First, I removed the seats.

(This is when my wife reminded me to clean the interior) It's a little tough if you don't have a ratcheting 1/2" box wrench. I was lucky. You won't get a normal socket at 4 of the 6 nuts per seat, so just go buy or borrow one. I guess your other alternative is a normal wrench, but you'll go insane before you get the seats out.
Also, you'll need to unplug the seat sensor harness on the driver's side and seat slider cable from the passenger side - both are easy.

Once I removed the seats, I had to knock out the 'bolts' that were wedged into the sliders.

A few good whacks with a hammer did the trick. They WILL come out, have faith!


It was then time to measure all the holes I'll need to drill and the length to cut the tube.
I went with the length of the sliders. It's longer than the length of the seat brackets, but I think it'll look good when it's done. Also, I can always cut them shorter later if I want. The length I used was 16 1/4" for all 4 tubes. I then had to measure out and cut holes for not only the 3 bolts per tube, but also for the 'rivet bolts' that protrude from the seat riser and stay installed. All I did was measure out where they were on the top of the tube and drill 1/2" holes so that they could countersink and I'd end up with a flush fit.

Sorry that there's no picture, but from the front to back the measurements are as follows:
Passenger Side Tubes:
15/16" - Seat bolt hole, 1/2", drill through top and bottom
4 1/16" - 'Rivet Bolt' hole, 1/2", drill only top
10 3/8" - Seat bolt hole, 1/2", drill through top and bottom
13 3/8" - 'Rivet Bolt' hole, 1/2", drill only top
14 1/8" - Seat bolt hole, 1/2", drill through top and bottom

Driver's Side Tubes:
15/16" - Seat bolt hole, 1/2", drill through top and bottom
4 1/16" - 'Rivet Bolt' hole, 1/2", drill only top
10 3/8" - Seat bolt hole, 1/2", drill through top and bottom
13 3/8" - Seat bolt hole, 1/2", drill through top and bottom

I chose 1/2" holes because I don't have a drill press and I'm not perfect. If you have a press, change all holes to a 7/16" or 3/8" - it'll depend on which bolts you end up with.

The new longer bolts wont easily go into the seat rails...

...so I angled in a 3/8" bit to elongate the holes, then tested to make sure it worked.

Afterwards I cleaned them up with the dremel tool and shot some black paint on the holes to help prevent rust.

After drilling the tubes and cleaning them up with a Dremel tool as well, I painted them with two coats of primer and two coats of paint. They're drying right now, but so far they look great! The picture doesn't do them justice!

2001 Jeep TJ Sport, SOLD!
2013 JK Sport, 6 Speed manual, RC 3.5" Series II, GY DTs 315/70/17, Pro Comp 7005s 17x8, Rubi 44s
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post #405 of 3568 Old 01-13-2008, 10:50 AM
lupien
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi22
CB Antenna Mount... $12 worth of flat steel, bent to fit, and is actually very sturdy (drove 24 hours on the highway after the install)

Hey Rubi22,

Just wondering how did you bend that peice of flat stock? Do you have someking of bender or do you just use a vice and bang it till it bends?

Thanks

._______
/ I ,[______],
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