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Unread 06-28-2010, 08:01 PM   #1
SOLIDJP44
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I have a serious Question that needs to be answered. (4wd light and t-case shifting)

Guys im having a problem, ever since i installed my body lift on my jeep (rough country 1.25) my 4wd part time light on the dash no longer comes on and i need to know why. Also im having a problem if i dont catch 4 high just right it seems to make a free spin or a grinding whine, and im really getting pissed over this. I called the guys at rough Country and said they never have a problem with body lifts. I do have a small tc drop and i had to add the bracket for the 4wd linkage. Why is this becoming minor into a nightmare. is there anything i need to do, i do notice when i take it out of 4wd i do tend to get a slight shudder down near the transmission tunnel almost like something is bouncing around down there. I never had this issue before the body lift. Id liek to leave it on but it may be coming off due to im so ticked at the moment. Anything guys please respond...thank you Nate.

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Unread 06-28-2010, 08:06 PM   #2
Sweeney
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You may just need to adjust the transfer case shifter linkage. Do a search for the procedure.
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Unread 06-28-2010, 08:09 PM   #3
wushaw
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Yup, xfer case adjustment will fix ya right up.
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Unread 06-28-2010, 08:14 PM   #4
KKiowaTJ
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Sounds like binding in the linkage. Loosen it all up and and re tighten it on level ground. I had the best luck with the adjusting it so 4lo engages perfect and never pops out on side hills. But it sounds like the the tub bracket is causing most of your problem. Good luck
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Unread 06-28-2010, 08:32 PM   #5
moonshinefuel
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You called RoughCountry, they said, they never had a problem with body lifts..Now that is rich. How can you not like that response.
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Unread 06-28-2010, 10:02 PM   #6
phillies4752
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Its the linkage. I had the same problem with mine. Loosen the bolt that holds the shaft in place and slide it forwards a believe. You might need to give it a little tap if its rusty. Find the sweet spot and tighten back down.
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Unread 06-29-2010, 07:53 AM   #7
SOLIDJP44
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will the light come back on then, when you say linkage you mean the the factory tab needs to be bent
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Unread 06-29-2010, 08:09 AM   #8
phillies4752
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I didn't have to bend anything. On your RC 1.25 body lift it should show you on the back of the instructions. It did on mine
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Unread 06-29-2010, 08:11 AM   #9
SOLIDJP44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlllllllllO View Post
I didn't have to bend anything. On your RC 1.25 body lift it should show you on the back of the instructions. It did on mine
I have studied these instructions, i loosened everythign and re tighten everything. Id like to know why the light won't come on though
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Unread 06-29-2010, 08:22 AM   #10
Wheelin98TJ
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I edited your thread title. It helps to put the problem right there rather than having a vague title.

The light not working is most likely the switch which is located on the driver side of the t-case.

It has 2 wires. One is a ground (black) and it runs to the passenger, rear of the engine block. The other wire goes to the gauge cluster an it is black and red.

Here is how to diagnose the problem:


(1) Check the fuse in the fuseblock module. (Fuse #10 behind the glove box, 10 amp)
If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or
component as required and replace the faulty fuse.

(2) Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
Check for battery voltage at the fuse in the fuseblock
module. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the
open circuit to the ignition switch as required.

(3) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Unplug the transfer case switch wire harness connector.
Check for continuity between the ground circuit
cavity of the transfer case switch wire harness connector
and a good ground. There should be continuity.
If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open
circuit to ground as required. The ground is cavity B, the same cavity that the solid black wire uses.

(4) Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the
ignition switch to the On position. Install a jumper
wire between the part time four wheel drive indicator
lamp driver circuit cavity (cavity A, black and red wire)
of the transfer case switch
wire harness connector and a good ground. The fourwheel
drive indicator lamp should light. If OK,
replace the faulty transfer case switch. If not OK, go
to Step 5.

(5) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Remove the instrument cluster. With the transfer
case switch wire harness connector still unplugged,
check for continuity between the part time four
wheel drive indicator lamp driver circuit cavity of the
right instrument cluster wire harness connector (con-
nector B) and a good ground. There should be no continuity.
If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the
short circuit as required.

(6) Check for continuity between the part time
four wheel drive indicator lamp driver circuit cavities
of the right instrument cluster wire harness connector
(connector B) and the transfer case switch wire
harness connector. There should be continuity. If OK,
replace the faulty bulb. If not OK, repair the open
circuit as required.
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Unread 06-29-2010, 08:33 AM   #11
SOLIDJP44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
I edited your thread title. It helps to put the problem right there rather than having a vague title.

The light not working is most likely the switch which is located on the driver side of the t-case.

It has 2 wires. One is a ground (black) and it runs to the passenger, rear of the engine block. The other wire goes to the gauge cluster an it is black and red.

Here is how to diagnose the problem:


(1) Check the fuse in the fuseblock module. (Fuse #10 behind the glove box, 10 amp)
If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or
component as required and replace the faulty fuse.

(2) Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
Check for battery voltage at the fuse in the fuseblock
module. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the
open circuit to the ignition switch as required.

(3) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Unplug the transfer case switch wire harness connector.
Check for continuity between the ground circuit
cavity of the transfer case switch wire harness connector
and a good ground. There should be continuity.
If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open
circuit to ground as required. The ground is cavity B, the same cavity that the solid black wire uses.

(4) Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the
ignition switch to the On position. Install a jumper
wire between the part time four wheel drive indicator
lamp driver circuit cavity (cavity A, black and red wire)
of the transfer case switch
wire harness connector and a good ground. The fourwheel
drive indicator lamp should light. If OK,
replace the faulty transfer case switch. If not OK, go
to Step 5.

(5) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Remove the instrument cluster. With the transfer
case switch wire harness connector still unplugged,
check for continuity between the part time four
wheel drive indicator lamp driver circuit cavity of the
right instrument cluster wire harness connector (con-
nector B) and a good ground. There should be no continuity.
If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the
short circuit as required.

(6) Check for continuity between the part time
four wheel drive indicator lamp driver circuit cavities
of the right instrument cluster wire harness connector
(connector B) and the transfer case switch wire
harness connector. There should be continuity. If OK,
replace the faulty bulb. If not OK, repair the open
circuit as required.
wow, thanks man im going to check this now, what would cause a thumping noise from the transmission tunnel though?
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Unread 06-29-2010, 08:45 AM   #12
Wheelin98TJ
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Did you install a t-case bracket with the body lift?

A common cause for knocking when taking off is the t-case shifter linkage. Here is more info:

Jeep TJ Transfer Case Shifter Knocking TSB
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Unread 06-29-2010, 01:25 PM   #13
SOLIDJP44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
Did you install a t-case bracket with the body lift?

A common cause for knocking when taking off is the t-case shifter linkage. Here is more info:

Jeep TJ Transfer Case Shifter Knocking TSB
I think this is exactly my problem, now i wonder if i should take it in and mention something although its 10 years later....what to do
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Unread 06-29-2010, 01:27 PM   #14
Wheelin98TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KraWL4L0 View Post
I think this is exactly my problem, now i wonder if i should take it in and mention something although its 10 years later....what to do
A TSB is not a recall where it gets fixed for free.

Its just advice for the Jeep techs on how to fix the problem.
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Unread 06-29-2010, 02:54 PM   #15
SOLIDJP44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
A TSB is not a recall where it gets fixed for free.

Its just advice for the Jeep techs on how to fix the problem.
if i was to take it in and mention it they should fix it is what your saying? if im understanding this correctly. thanks and sorry if i misread that, nate.
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