How the Metalcloak Duroflex bushing stacks up - Page 9 - JeepForum.com

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post #121 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 03:29 PM
bobthetj03
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How did you get a Duraflex joint on the axle end?


Bob's boring build:


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post #122 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Memory lapse, are you running a custom 3 link in the front?
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Yes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
How did you get a Duraflex joint on the axle end?
What are you missing? I built a mount.....

OlllllllO

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post #123 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 03:40 PM
bobthetj03
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Brain fart on my part. You're obviously running a custom fabbed bracket at the axle end so you can run a standard MC joint there. Sorry for my stupidity.

Bob's boring build:


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post #124 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 03:45 PM
Jeepineer
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Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
So I was thinking about the mixing and matching of the duro joints with JJs and thought about the residual stress that could be built up in a Duro joint because of the resistance in the JJ. Couldn't the same thing happen if you don't pay absolute attention when setting the length on an adjustable MC arm. I know I've installed control arms where the bushings on the same arm were not exactly parallel to each other, but the spherical end compensated and adjusted to fit. Is it super critical that an arm with Duroflex bushing be adjusted to length and them tightened down so the bushings fit both ends completely parallel to the mounts? Just not picking a little, I know that, but sounds like if it matters enough to not work mixed with a JJ, care might want to be taken to make sure both ends of the arm exactly fit into the mounts, so that at static ride height there is no stress in the bushings.
I've set my arm length with one end connected under the vehicle, when I tightened down the jam nut I always ended up with a bit of a twist in the arm. Usually I do a much better job keeping the ends parallel when out and clamped in a vice. Sorry imped, I know this is your review thread, but being that it is already 7 pages long I figured this might be something to bring up.
Thank you for the question.

Duroflex Joint alignment is not more or less important than on any other joint. You should always do your best to align the joints. (within 1-3 degrees is more than adequate).

I hope this information is helpful.

Sorry Imped if I am butting in on your thread. If I am posting too much just PM me to stop.
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post #125 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepineer View Post
Thank you for the question.

Duroflex Joint alignment is not more or less important than on any other joint. You should always do your best to align the joints. (within 1-3 degrees is more than adequate).

I hope this information is helpful.

Sorry Imped if I am butting in on your thread. If I am posting too much just PM me to stop.
The confusion -

You don't provide a way to replace the front axle-end Clevite bushing and you don't recommend mixing a Duroflex with a Clevite...
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post #126 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 04:23 PM
GMBNT42
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Originally Posted by LittleBluE View Post
Just to get this out their a j arm clearances obstacles just as well as a short arm does..

You're just a big ol' genious aren't you. Have you taken nothing from this thread? This really isn't that hard..

Woah everyone watch out. We got a bad *** over here!!!
If your wrapping a tube under and arm then no, a J arm does not clear obstacles as well as what a SA/MID/LA can.

And yes, I am smart. I take what I need to and discard the rest, like everyone else.
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post #127 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 04:24 PM
ftgiles
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Also worth throwing out there...

The JJ housing is wider than the Duroflex housing. The JJ housing will contact the clevis sooner than a Duroflex housing will in the same clevis. FWIW.
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post #128 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 04:25 PM
GMBNT42
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Originally Posted by ftgiles View Post
The confusion -

You don't provide a way to replace the front axle-end Clevite bushing and you don't recommend mixing a Duroflex with a Clevite...
Actually there is a way. You take this: http://www.metalcloak.com/2-OD-x-2-W...ing-p/7302.htm

And then you make your own upper mounts by welding them to the duroflex housings.

Or you can call up Clayton...........send them the duroflex housings and have them weld them onto their own UCA axle brackets, which they will do for you.
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post #129 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Brain fart on my part. You're obviously running a custom fabbed bracket at the axle end so you can run a standard MC joint there. Sorry for my stupidity.
No problem. It's a simple truss bridge with bracket tabs over the diff. The tabs fit any 2.625" mount width joint, including the Duroflex.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepineer View Post
Thank you for the question.
Duroflex Joint alignment is not more or less important than on any other joint. You should always do your best to align the joints. (within 1-3 degrees is more than adequate).

I hope this information is helpful.

Sorry Imped if I am butting in on your thread. If I am posting too much just PM me to stop.
No problem Doug, this is your product. Step in any time you want.

For TJ axles, obviously running a Clevite bushing at the housing isn't ideal but there's no real choice. This is no different than Currie, Savvy, Rokmen, Clayton and all other short arm manufacturers. If you're using up all of the misalignment capability of the frame-side joint, then you probably shouldn't be running stock-length arms and stock mounts anyway, nor are you probably worried about the small bushing because you don't use them any longer. It sounds like MC has a product on the list to address this but it's not the first thing on that list.

Once again, I fail to see how Currie J arm discussion pertains to this thread. Take it elsewhere.

OlllllllO

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post #130 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by HarryJeepGuy View Post

I was going to call and ask because I prefer to talk in person, but I guess I may as well ask here. It may help reduce some calls... Do you/are you going to sell a Duroflex joint for the front axle housing upper, either a stock replacement, JJ kit replacement, or your own weld on mount for them? I know some are saying just to stick with the stockers there and run the MC on the frame side, but I'd rather not. This would be for a HP D30 if that matters.
Also, what about using the Duroflex joint in trackbars? I'll be getting new ones front and rear until I have time to 4-link (pipe dream), and don't see them in your trackbars online. Thanks.
Id like to know this also. I know with the jj they say to use the axle kit also. Do you just run the the duroflex with the stockers or?

01 tj 4.0,bds springs,ROKMEN arms, ecgs 8.8 and hp30 both locked with 4.88s,35in STTs,Smittybilt bumpers,8k winch,hylined MCE flatties,TKHfab rocksliders,and lots more to come!
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post #131 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by pmcjeep View Post
Id like to know this also. I know with the jj they say to use the axle kit also. Do you just run the the duroflex with the stockers or?
This is the 2" JJ axle kit to replace the upper front axle clevite bushings: http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1277

The kit obviously requires cutting and welding to install.

If you want to do something similiar like that with the duroflex joints here is one example of what you would need:

A. http://www.metalcloak.com/2-OD-x-2-W...ing-p/7302.htm

B. http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/290

If you request, clayton can sell that kit WITHOUT the JJ's and housing.....you send the 2" duroflex housing to them to be welded on in place.....OR they will see you the riser brackets without the JJ's or the JJ housings so you can weld on the duroflex housing yourself.

And thats one simple way of solving the front upper axle control arm bracket swapover so you can use duroflex joints on all ends.
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post #132 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 05:13 PM
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Thanks yeah i caught that after i posted.

01 tj 4.0,bds springs,ROKMEN arms, ecgs 8.8 and hp30 both locked with 4.88s,35in STTs,Smittybilt bumpers,8k winch,hylined MCE flatties,TKHfab rocksliders,and lots more to come!
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post #133 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty762

Yeah this thread has some good information except for one individual who feels the need to try to make everyone think he is incredibly intelligent. Seems to have the reverse effect from what most people post, you should start your own thread. You can answer all of your own questions with contradictions and then prove to yourself how smart you are!!
Some people just don't get it. Not our fault

I wonder if MC would convert my rubi express short arms to dflex if I sent them to them....
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post #134 of 1039 Old 02-26-2013, 02:10 PM
BamaJeepman21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
This is the 2" JJ axle kit to replace the upper front axle clevite bushings: http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1277

The kit obviously requires cutting and welding to install.

If you want to do something similiar like that with the duroflex joints here is one example of what you would need:

A. http://www.metalcloak.com/2-OD-x-2-W...ing-p/7302.htm

B. http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/290

If you request, clayton can sell that kit WITHOUT the JJ's and housing.....you send the 2" duroflex housing to them to be welded on in place.....OR they will see you the riser brackets without the JJ's or the JJ housings so you can weld on the duroflex housing yourself.

And thats one simple way of solving the front upper axle control arm bracket swapover so you can use duroflex joints on all ends.
Could you just order this from Savvy without the JJ and use this Duroflex? Or am I missing something here?

-Jack
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post #135 of 1039 Old 02-26-2013, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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Originally Posted by BamaJeepman21 View Post
Could you just order this from Savvy without the JJ and use this Duroflex? Or am I missing something here?
The dimensions of the bushing don't work with the Currie barrels.

OlllllllO

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