How the Metalcloak Duroflex bushing stacks up - Page 8 - JeepForum.com

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post #106 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 12:55 PM
bobthetj03
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Memory lapse, are you running a custom 3 link in the front?


Bob's boring build:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...build-1304260/

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post #107 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 12:59 PM
Jeepineer
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MetalCloak Duroflex Joints are specifically designed to be used at both ends of the control arm. Thier long term durability is in part due to thier ability to divide misalignment forces and operational stresses equally between both ends of the control arm. Please do not mix joints.
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post #108 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Memory lapse, are you running a custom 3 link in the front?
Yes.

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post #109 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 01:07 PM
jeepinhokie
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one item i have seen mentioned here but not answered was the LH housing from Metalcloak.

I'm about to 3/4 link my TJ and am contemplating going with all Duroflex joints. I dont currently have JJ housings to simply swap the bushing into. Do i need to try and buy all the 1.25" Shank housings from Currie and the bushings from MC and assemble myself? Or does/will MC offer LH and RH threads for those of us who want to build our arms starting with the Duroflex joint and still having double adjustable arms.

does Currie even sell the 1.25" shank housings by themselves?
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post #110 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
one item i have seen mentioned here but not answered was the LH housing from Metalcloak.

I'm about to 3/4 link my TJ and am contemplating going with all Duroflex joints. I dont currently have JJ housings to simply swap the bushing into. Do i need to try and buy all the 1.25" Shank housings from Currie and the bushings from MC and assemble myself? Or does/will MC offer LH and RH threads for those of us who want to build our arms starting with the Duroflex joint and still having double adjustable arms.

does Currie even sell the 1.25" shank housings by themselves?
Call Will at Metalcloak. We have LH threads that we custom make for you. No extra charge. We will soon stock LH threads.
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post #111 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 01:17 PM
jeepinhokie
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Call Will at Metalcloak. We have LH threads that we custom make for you. No extra charge. We will soon stock LH threads.
awesome.. when i'm ready to place the order I will be calling. I had an email in with Will and havent heard anything back yet.

Thanks!
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post #112 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 01:21 PM
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Im not going to be running MC joints at one end and JJs at the other. My Full Traction long arm kit uses clevite bushings at one end.
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post #113 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 01:50 PM
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Im not going to be running MC joints at one end and JJs at the other. My Full Traction long arm kit uses clevite bushings at one end.
We do not recommend mixing with Clevites either. We do offer weldon housings that would allow you to replace your clevites.

I hope this information is helpful.
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post #114 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 02:17 PM
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So I was thinking about the mixing and matching of the duro joints with JJs and thought about the residual stress that could be built up in a Duro joint because of the resistance in the JJ. Couldn't the same thing happen if you don't pay absolute attention when setting the length on an adjustable MC arm. I know I've installed control arms where the bushings on the same arm were not exactly parallel to each other, but the spherical end compensated and adjusted to fit. Is it super critical that an arm with Duroflex bushing be adjusted to length and them tightened down so the bushings fit both ends completely parallel to the mounts? Just not picking a little, I know that, but sounds like if it matters enough to not work mixed with a JJ, care might want to be taken to make sure both ends of the arm exactly fit into the mounts, so that at static ride height there is no stress in the bushings.
I've set my arm length with one end connected under the vehicle, when I tightened down the jam nut I always ended up with a bit of a twist in the arm. Usually I do a much better job keeping the ends parallel when out and clamped in a vice. Sorry imped, I know this is your review thread, but being that it is already 7 pages long I figured this might be something to bring up.
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post #115 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepineer

We do not recommend mixing with Clevites either. We do offer weldon housings that would allow you to replace your clevites.

I hope this information is helpful.
I was going to call and ask because I prefer to talk in person, but I guess I may as well ask here. It may help reduce some calls... Do you/are you going to sell a Duroflex joint for the front axle housing upper, either a stock replacement, JJ kit replacement, or your own weld on mount for them? I know some are saying just to stick with the stockers there and run the MC on the frame side, but I'd rather not. This would be for a HP D30 if that matters.
Also, what about using the Duroflex joint in trackbars? I'll be getting new ones front and rear until I have time to 4-link (pipe dream), and don't see them in your trackbars online. Thanks.
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post #116 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryJeepGuy View Post
Do you/are you going to sell a Duroflex joint for the front axle housing upper, either a stock replacement, JJ kit replacement, or your own weld on mount for them? I know some are saying just to stick with the stockers there and run the MC on the frame side, but I'd rather not. This would be for a HP D30 if that matters.
I'd like to know this as well. I'm in the middle of building a HP30 and would like ot know if there is a duroflex joint for the axle side.
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post #117 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
I've set my arm length with one end connected under the vehicle, when I tightened down the jam nut I always ended up with a bit of a twist in the arm. Usually I do a much better job keeping the ends parallel when out and clamped in a vice. Sorry imped, I know this is your review thread, but being that it is already 7 pages long I figured this might be something to bring up.
When trying to tighten the arms with JJ at each end, twist the arm so both JJ's are hard against the CA bracket then tighten the jam nut. Everything will then be lined up fine.
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post #118 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Yes.
That's a crapload of stress to be putting on the Duroflex joints for the upper. I'll be curious to see how they hold up there.

Bob's boring build:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...build-1304260/

White Jeep club member #2003

www.norcal-jeeps.com
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post #119 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
So I was thinking about the mixing and matching of the duro joints with JJs and thought about the residual stress that could be built up in a Duro joint because of the resistance in the JJ. Couldn't the same thing happen if you don't pay absolute attention when setting the length on an adjustable MC arm. I know I've installed control arms where the bushings on the same arm were not exactly parallel to each other, but the spherical end compensated and adjusted to fit. Is it super critical that an arm with Duroflex bushing be adjusted to length and them tightened down so the bushings fit both ends completely parallel to the mounts? Just not picking a little, I know that, but sounds like if it matters enough to not work mixed with a JJ, care might want to be taken to make sure both ends of the arm exactly fit into the mounts, so that at static ride height there is no stress in the bushings.
I've set my arm length with one end connected under the vehicle, when I tightened down the jam nut I always ended up with a bit of a twist in the arm. Usually I do a much better job keeping the ends parallel when out and clamped in a vice. Sorry imped, I know this is your review thread, but being that it is already 7 pages long I figured this might be something to bring up.
You're exactly right and yes, it is very important for the bushings to be neutral. So, if building a custom suspension care should be taken to ensure the mounts are inline. This isn't hard to accomplish but you can't be lazy about it. This was important to me well before the advent of the Duroflex joints so it wasn't a concern. The only mounts that are slightly off are the front lowers and the difference between the frame and axle is very small, probably 1-2*. You wouldn't even be able to tell by looking at it.

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post #120 of 1039 Old 02-25-2013, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
That's a crapload of stress to be putting on the Duroflex joints for the upper. I'll be curious to see how they hold up there.
That's why I'm running them.

I'm not even slightly concerned about it, though.

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