How the Metalcloak Duroflex bushing stacks up - Page 58 - JeepForum.com
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post #856 of 1025 Old 02-04-2014, 04:47 PM
afusco1222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Just wish it had 260 HP like that one.
It definitely could...

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post #857 of 1025 Old 02-04-2014, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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I know....I've got the cam sitting in my garage.

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post #858 of 1025 Old 02-04-2014, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
curious to see how you oriented your upper link. Did you mount the duroflex joints 90 degrees to eachother? I had to make a custom upper mount for my frame end on my 3 link.
Both of the bolts are horizontal to the ground. I used a Clayton 3 link bridge on the axle and a Poly Performance high clearance lower control arm mount flipped upside down and on the top of the frame.
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post #859 of 1025 Old 02-04-2014, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
curious to see how you oriented your upper link. Did you mount the duroflex joints 90 degrees to eachother? I had to make a custom upper mount for my frame end on my 3 link.
Bolts at both ends of the control arm should be parallel to one another and parallel to the ground. The Duroflex Joints are not designed to run with bolt orientations perpendicular to one another.

I hope this information is helpful.
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post #860 of 1025 Old 02-05-2014, 05:32 AM
jeepinhokie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenJPTJ View Post
Both of the bolts are horizontal to the ground. I used a Clayton 3 link bridge on the axle and a Poly Performance high clearance lower control arm mount flipped upside down and on the top of the frame.
i'm surprised you put the frame side on top of the frame.

this is what i came up with back when i did mine. Clayton bridge and with a custom poly 3 link mount.









i ended up cutting the corner off the upper mount to make more room for the driveshaft, but i dont seem to have a picture of that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepineer View Post
Bolts at both ends of the control arm should be parallel to one another. The Duroflex Joints are not designed to run with bolt orientations perpendicular to one another.

I hope this information is helpful.
this is the reason i asked. I just wanted to see what solutions others have come up with for this .
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post #861 of 1025 Old 02-05-2014, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
i'm surprised you put the frame side on top of the frame.

this is what i came up with back when i did mine. Clayton bridge and with a custom poly 3 link mount.









i ended up cutting the corner off the upper mount to make more room for the driveshaft, but i dont seem to have a picture of that.



this is the reason i asked. I just wanted to see what solutions others have come up with for this .
Excellent design and install!!! Excellent alignment and orientation. You will get great life out of the joints with that set up. It was also a good decision to use our largest joints on your upper arm. You obviously have a great understanding of the functionality at proper application of the MC joints.

Thank you for giving us a try.
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post #862 of 1025 Old 02-05-2014, 04:49 PM
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Here are some bad pictures of what I did. The driveshaft makes it hard to get better pictures.

No need to tell me how bad my fab skills are I already know.
Attached Thumbnails
006.JPG   008.JPG  
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post #863 of 1025 Old 02-05-2014, 04:49 PM
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JeepinHokie your work is pretty nice. I wish mine looked like that
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post #864 of 1025 Old 02-05-2014, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by GreenJPTJ View Post
JeepinHokie your work is pretty nice. I wish mine looked like that
X2

Je Suis Prest ~ Semper Fi
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post #865 of 1025 Old 02-05-2014, 06:19 PM
jeepinhokie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenJPTJ
Here are some bad pictures of what I did. The driveshaft makes it hard to get better pictures. No need to tell me how bad my fab skills are I already know.
I would recommend using a nylock nut or at least a lock washer. And I can't see the end of the bolt well enough to see the markings, are they grade 8?

And the pictures make it hard to see well, but the upper mount looks like it could use more gussets to keep it from being pushed straight back if you take a hard hit to the axle. That's why I mimicked the poly perf 4 link gusset on mine.

Other than that it looks good!!
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post #866 of 1025 Old 02-13-2014, 11:49 AM
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Awesome thread and write up Imped. These DF Arms are definatly part of my build list now. Thanks Imped and everyone else for takeing the time to report your exxperiences here.
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post #867 of 1025 Old 02-14-2014, 06:33 PM
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I thought I would post up my initial review of the Duroflex arms as replacing the stock arms, not a aftermarket one.. I went with a complete set of the double adjustable aluminum. My suspension is stock and I will be swapping axles soon along with a 3" lift, hence the reason for new CAs.

The oem front arms were replaced at 20K ago and in good shape. The rear arms had never been touched and have 110K on them. The lowers were dry rotted and the uppers were as well.

Install was straight forward, there a couple threads that go over drilling the rear upper mounts and that was helpful. I am happy I went with the double adjustable, didn't have to use ratchet straps or a jack. I was surprised how heavy they where and it takes more force than I thought for the duroflex bushing to break free. Both good things IMO.

I can definitely say that after installing the MC arms, the ride is NOT worse than oem. I could tell no difference at low speeds but the jeep did seem more composed at high speeds, going over bumps. I did notice less noise and a somewhat better ride from the rear suspension. So, to summarize, I can say that these bushing provide similar or the same ride characteristics when compared to the oem bushing. I plan to test out the MC arms on some high speed washboard road and rock crawling to see if there are any differences.



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post #868 of 1025 Old 02-19-2014, 02:45 PM
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I'd like to thank everyone in this thread for helping me choose my new MC control arms. I just ordered a set of steel arms and I can't wait till the get in. Wish I wasn't running the stock mounting locations but money and time dictate that right now. I'm a 90% street driven rig but I needed new arms so I figured why not. Will post a review once they are in and I have some miles under them. Now to order my sye so I can do my tummy tuck. (Yes I know there is more involved then that). Thanks again for starting this thread Imped, helpe out a lot.
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post #869 of 1025 Old 02-22-2014, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 00tj2 View Post
I'd like to thank everyone in this thread for helping me choose my new MC control arms. I just ordered a set of steel arms and I can't wait till the get in. Wish I wasn't running the stock mounting locations but money and time dictate that right now. I'm a 90% street driven rig but I needed new arms so I figured why not. Will post a review once they are in and I have some miles under them. Now to order my sye so I can do my tummy tuck. (Yes I know there is more involved then that). Thanks again for starting this thread Imped, helpe out a lot.
No problem, I look forward to hearing your thoughts on them. If you need a hand on anything make sure to post up or PM me.

And there's nothing wrong with the factory mounting points as long as you are smart about your rig's height.

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post #870 of 1025 Old 02-27-2014, 11:53 AM
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So if I go with MC front uppers what should I replace the bushings in the front axle housing with? The JJ kit? Or does MC make a duroflex bushing for the axle housing that I'm just not seeing on their site?

What about running JJ front uppers with the JJ housing kit and MC front lowers?

Good idea? Bad? Will my Tj burst into flames mixing CA's like that?

Thoughts?

Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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