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Unread 03-18-2013, 09:12 AM   #196
flagators
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post
I think he's talking about having to drill out the control arm brackets for the larger bolts supplied with the JJs. I assume he means now that he's drilled them to work with the JJs, will they work with the Duroflex joints.

If so, yes you're fine.
Yes that's it. Thanks.

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Unread 03-18-2013, 10:09 AM   #197
J03_TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
I run 9/16" bolts all around.
I wanted to buy just one 9/16" bolt to use this weekend to help with welding in some of Blaine's JJ washers, they were kind if hard to find. I ended up finding them at Ace. Did you find any flange head grade 8 style ones, if so where did you find them.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 10:16 AM   #198
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You've got to go to a good hardware store to find the good stuff--Lowes and HD won't cut it. Ace and True Value are awesome....some even have thick washers like the ones Currie sends out. I just use standard fine thread G8 9/16" bolts with hardened washers and zinc plated nuts.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 11:01 AM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
You've got to go to a good hardware store to find the good stuff--Lowes and HD won't cut it. Ace and True Value are awesome....some even have thick washers like the ones Currie sends out. I just use standard fine thread G8 9/16" bolts with hardened washers and zinc plated nuts.
Yep, I had to drive past he Ace as it was 8pm to go try my luck at Home Depot knowing I was probably gong to be a waste of time. Well next morning Ace had some, but they were course thread and only grade 5.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 12:32 PM   #200
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I'll be installing the front uppers tonight. I doubt I'll feel much of a difference just replacing 2 uppers, but we'll see.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 12:42 PM   #201
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i can do the uppers it looks like but not lowers with the way im set up. my lowers use 3/4" bolts
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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
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my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 03-18-2013, 12:44 PM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
i can do the uppers it looks like but not lowers with the way im set up. my lowers use 3/4" bolts
Weld washers?
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Unread 03-18-2013, 12:48 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post
Weld washers?
how would that work? are they welded in the original hole so that it keeps the same width or does it create a gap. my mounts are 1/4" thick so if i weld a washer on the outside that joint will be able to slide back and forth a total of a half an inch on the bolt due to the width change

edit: i just looked em up i see what they are. that could work

edit2: upon further reading i still dont understand
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 03-18-2013, 01:03 PM   #204
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He's saying use 9/16" weld washers to get you back down to 9/16" mount holes. Voila.

3/4" bolts? Your Jeep could literally destroy itself and the only thing remaining would be those bolts. Not exactly necessary.....
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Unread 03-18-2013, 01:08 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
He's saying use 9/16" weld washers to get you back down to 9/16" mount holes. Voila.

3/4" bolts? Your Jeep could literally destroy itself and the only thing remaining would be those bolts. Not exactly necessary.....
yea i realized that once i started building . i wanted my lower links to be huge so i wouldn't have to worry about them since they're so long. in my head it didn't seem that big lol
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 03-18-2013, 04:14 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
I wanted to buy just one 9/16" bolt to use this weekend to help with welding in some of Blaine's JJ washers, they were kind if hard to find. I ended up finding them at Ace. Did you find any flange head grade 8 style ones, if so where did you find them.
Lowe's around me has a good selection of Grade 8 stuff, but HD doesn't
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Unread 03-18-2013, 04:49 PM   #207
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I've never been to an Ace that's not stacked with G8, coarse vs fine, etc.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 06:05 PM   #208
J03_TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
I've never been to an Ace that's not stacked with G8, coarse vs fine, etc.
Yeah, I love Ace too.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 06:19 PM   #209
cloakedwillys
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On the TJ we use 9/16 (14mm) lower arm hardware and change the upper hardware to 12mm where our joints go.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 08:28 PM   #210
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Hey guys.. Will from MC pointed me here.. Had some questions about how well the DF joints would hold up on a front triangulated setup from a deflection and wear standpoint..

Currently have TeraFlex 5" LCG Max Long Arm kit on the Jeep.. It's a triangulated 4 link setup on the front and rear.. Stress forces on the front upper CA joints are well beyond the capabilties of what the 2" joint was intended. (Should have had a 2.5 joint IMHO, but there's not clearances with the current frame and axle mounts to hold the 2.5") I'm going through the rebuildable joint bushings about every 5000 miles to keep the death wobble (DW) at bay. Mostly road miles with some moderate wheeling.. The Flex Joints on the TeraFlex kit are basically the same thing as a Johnny Joint (designwise, even if material isn't), they just use a 7/8 x18 (tpi) shank rather than the 3/4" or 1" shank the JJ comes in.

Anyroads.. Have been considering the Duroflex joints as an option for replacement. I know all the "Pros" about using them from what's on the MC site and now reading here. My concern is using something as flexy as the Duroflex joint could be in a triagulated 4 link. When I say I've been rebuilding due to wear it's due to the DW that's a result of a worn joint.. By most peoples and suspension standards the joints are not really worn out, just worn down, but the lack of any trackbar with my 4 link has a very low tolerance for worn or overly flexy parts before the thing starts with the DW.

Thanks for any input you guys can provide...

--
Rob

Last edited by TokenMSJ; 03-18-2013 at 10:07 PM..
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