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Unread 03-05-2013, 12:25 PM   #166
BamaJeepman21
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If only they made double adjustable arms...


I hope that's in the plans atleast.

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Unread 03-05-2013, 01:26 PM   #167
GMBNT42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaJeepman21 View Post
If only they made double adjustable arms...

I hope that's in the plans atleast.
I wish they did too....they have the reverse threads........but definetly not a deal breaker.....i fiddled with the rear pinion a bit.....even with singles its not hard or time consuming to do.
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Unread 03-05-2013, 06:49 PM   #168
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I can't find much info on Metalcloak's website, but does anyone know the specific type of lubricant needed between the bushing and the barrel? I know you can't use regular chassis grease.
UPDATE:
I emailed them and yes, the special grease is included with the joints, I just didn't get them with my shipment. They are going to send me some.
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Unread 03-05-2013, 07:06 PM   #169
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Seems like the same lube that is usually included with any type of Poly bushing . I can tell you a little goes a long way . I removed the Duroflex joints from my Savvy lower front arms and reinstalled the JJs . That lube took a long time to clean up on all of the tools , hands , bench . A little of that gets every where and not many cleaners will cut it . I seem to have an issue with a bit of a wander and can't find anything that would cause it so I went back to what I know worked well to begin with and that was JJs on my lower fronts and will go from there.
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Unread 03-05-2013, 10:01 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary2 View Post
Seems inike the same lube that is usually included with any type of Poly bushing . I can tell you a little goes a long way . I removed the Duroflex joints from my Savvy lower front arms and reinstalled the JJs . That lube took a long time to clean up on all of the tools , hands , bench . A little of that gets every where and not many cleaners will cut it . I seem to have an issue with a bit of a wander and can't find anything that would cause it so I went back to what I know worked well to begin with and that was JJs on my lower fronts and will go from there.
Gary, did you check the toe-in & caster after you installed the Duroflex bushings?
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Unread 03-06-2013, 04:07 AM   #171
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Oh yes . I double check them quite often to be sure nothing is out of whack after swapping parts around. Back when I installed the Duroflex joints in the lowers I could not leave the Savvy arms at the existing length. I lost some caster so naturally I had to lengthen the lowers to reset the caster to what it was with JJs installed. I naturally had a slight change in rear pinion angle also when the rears were installed and had to readjust the rear lowers.That made me a little nervous and wondered then if they were soft enough to allow axle movement that would cause a slight wander on uneven road surfaces. I am still working on it , I am just a little busy now.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 09:44 AM   #172
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What's the best way to measure caster? Can you do it with an angle finder?
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Unread 03-06-2013, 10:02 AM   #173
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What's the best way to measure caster? Can you do it with an angle finder?
Best way? An alignment rack.

Second best? Knowing the degrees of separation between the pinion and caster planes, measuring pinion from the two round flat spots on either side of the diff cover (they're perpendicular to the pinion center line) and extrapolating caster from that number. That's how I do it and believe it's accurate enough to not worry about an alignment rack.

Separation on LP 30/44's: 12 deg
Separation on HP30's: 9 deg
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Unread 03-06-2013, 10:11 AM   #174
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Bob , Their don't seem to be a method everyone agrees on. If it isnt to with in .00001 of a degree some will just constantly find fault with any method even though within 1 degree is acceptable from the factory. That said , I am not going there any more, tired of hearing it . I put an digital angle finder vertically on the heads of the bolts on the diff cover and logged that number so I had a number to reset the caster to if it changed because of swapping the Joints each time , which it did. On the bolts mine read 84.5 degrees if that helps.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 10:16 AM   #175
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Thanks. I figured as long as I can measure a baseline I can adjust to that when needed. I'll be changing the front uppers to the Duro arms and was wondering if I will need to adjust.
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Unread 03-15-2013, 05:31 AM   #176
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My complete set of arms just came in and will be installed today ... pictures are posted of them in my build thread in case anyone is interested in seeing photos of them. I wont be reviewing them considering my knowledge is far less then many others here on this site and I feel the OP has done a great job listing their features. If the OP is interested I can post pictures here of the arms and the install... but as a consideration to him and to not high jack his thread I will refrain unless he gives me the OK.
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Unread 03-15-2013, 06:48 AM   #177
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Fine with me Lactrain. Are you going from stock arms to these? That would actually be an excellent comparison that I'd be interested in. I'm not sure if you'll be able to tell the difference or not, but I've got a hunch that the MC bushings actually absorb a higher amount of NVH than stock. If you could provide details on any felt changes between the two, that'd be cool.
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Unread 03-15-2013, 06:42 PM   #178
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Fine with me Lactrain. Are you going from stock arms to these? That would actually be an excellent comparison that I'd be interested in. I'm not sure if you'll be able to tell the difference or not, but I've got a hunch that the MC bushings actually absorb a higher amount of NVH than stock. If you could provide details on any felt changes between the two, that'd be cool.
No, A one year old set of RC X-Flex/Poly, and OME N66/N67 shocks in conjunction and the passengers side right rear is blown. The difference was dramatic, I had a considerable amount of noise, so much that I didn't even bother to clean and try to resell them. So much that prior to purchasing these arms I considered rebuilding my front JKS Sway bar links and my rear JKS track bar poly bushing in assumption that they were contributing to the noise I was experiencing. Good thing I held of because it wasn't the case, I do have some play in both, but no noise.

The one comparison I can give you in reference to my stock arms, which im sure some can relate to, which simply impressed me. I live in a semi urban area where there is a road that I travel frequently that one would define as a washboard road and I always used this to gauge my ride. I have been traveling this road since I purchased my rig. I one that has been victimized by a rattling clutch pedal since I bought my rig back four years ago. Well installing these arms have been the single most improvement that has made my jeep run smooth enough that I no longer hear this rattle. I'm sure loose pedal is still there but it is no longer part of daily commute.
1.jpg   2.jpg   3.jpg   4.jpg   5.jpg  

6.jpg   7.jpg   8.jpg   9.jpg  
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Unread 03-15-2013, 08:37 PM   #179
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No, A one year old set of RC X-Flex/Poly, and OME N66/N67 shocks in conjunction and the passengers side right rear is blown. The difference was dramatic, I had a considerable amount of noise, so much that I didn't even bother to clean and try to resell them. So much that prior to purchasing these arms I considered rebuilding my front JKS Sway bar links and my rear JKS track bar poly bushing in assumption that they were contributing to the noise I was experiencing. Good thing I held of because it wasn't the case, I do have some play in both, but no noise.
That is awesome to hear. I have the RC X-flex arms that are about 3 years old and they are TERRIBLE, well them combined with their 2.2 shocks. I'm just deciding between JJ's or the MC arms to upgrade this summer.
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Unread 03-16-2013, 01:47 PM   #180
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A few more images after the install ...
10.jpg   11.jpg   12.jpg   13.jpg   14.jpg  

15.jpg   16.jpg  
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