How the Metalcloak Duroflex bushing stacks up - Page 10 - JeepForum.com
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post #136 of 1025 Old 02-26-2013, 01:43 PM
GMBNT42
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Yes you have to cut off the jj housing and use mc's housings in its place....

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post #137 of 1025 Old 02-26-2013, 01:54 PM
SKINUM
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I think I'd just leave the front uppers with Johnny joints & replace the rest. I already have replaced the axle mount on my Jeep so it wouldn't be worth the minimal improvement for me.
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post #138 of 1025 Old 02-26-2013, 02:03 PM
GMBNT42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaJeepman21 View Post
Could you just order this from Savvy without the JJ and use this Duroflex? Or am I missing something here?
It wouldn't work. You would have to either fab your own or buy a prefabbed set of upper axle control arm mounts....like the Clayton ones.........request them to come without the JJ housings welded on so that you could weld on the MC duroflex housings........thats how you can run duroflex bushings up front at the top axle mounts.
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post #139 of 1025 Old 02-26-2013, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINUM View Post
I think I'd just leave the front uppers with Johnny joints & replace the rest. I already have replaced the axle mounts on my Jeep so it wouldn't be worth the minimal improvement for me.
^^ This is what I'm thinking of doing. I'm just wondering though how it would ride with Duroflex uppers/lowers in the rear but only Duroflex lowers in the front (keeping all 4 JJ uppers)? I wouldn't want the rear end considerably softer than the front end.
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post #140 of 1025 Old 02-26-2013, 02:58 PM
bobthetj03
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Someone needs to make a truss that has tab style bracket mounts for the uppers, then just buy arms with joints at both ends. A truss would simplify having to weld to the cast diff housing, make it stronger, and eliminate the Clevites.

Something like this....
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/358

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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...build-1304260/

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post #141 of 1025 Old 02-26-2013, 06:48 PM
jeepinhokie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03
Someone needs to make a truss that has tab style bracket mounts for the uppers, then just buy arms with joints at both ends. A truss would simplify having to weld to the cast diff housing, make it stronger, and eliminate the Clevites.

Something like this....
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/358
That's how I plan to mount my 3 link. Clayton bridge without the link mount. Probably use an artec flat link mount instead.
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post #142 of 1025 Old 02-27-2013, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Someone needs to make a truss that has tab style bracket mounts for the uppers, then just buy arms with joints at both ends. A truss would simplify having to weld to the cast diff housing, make it stronger, and eliminate the Clevites.

Something like this....
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/358
I know it's done quite a bit with D60 builds. Everything I've read says properly welding mild to cast is a PITA. Professionals prefer brazing rather than welding.
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post #143 of 1025 Old 02-27-2013, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_dippert View Post
I know it's done quite a bit with D60 builds. Everything I've read says properly welding mild to cast is a PITA. Professionals prefer brazing rather than welding.
It welds to the tubes.

I built a simple bridge from 1/2" steel for next to nothing and cut some tabs out of 5/16" plate I had sitting in my steel bin.

You can see it here:

[IMG][/IMG]

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post #144 of 1025 Old 02-27-2013, 09:21 AM
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I guess it's not rocket science. A bridge like that should be simple enough. How did you weld the bridge to the driver side. There's not much axle tube to weld to between the housing and the spring perch mount.

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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...build-1304260/

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post #145 of 1025 Old 02-27-2013, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03
I guess it's not rocket science. A bridge like that should be simple enough. How did you weld the bridge to the driver side. There's not much axle tube to weld to between the housing and the spring perch mount.
Build new coil buckets that tie into the truss.
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post #146 of 1025 Old 02-27-2013, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
I guess it's not rocket science. A bridge like that should be simple enough. How did you weld the bridge to the driver side. There's not much axle tube to weld to between the housing and the spring perch mount.
There's not a bracket on that axle that's stock....it was bare tube before I started. The coil buckets and truss tie into each other on the short tube.

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post #147 of 1025 Old 02-27-2013, 09:44 AM
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Guess I better hit the wrecking yards and find a HP30 to practice on, lol!

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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...build-1304260/

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post #148 of 1025 Old 02-27-2013, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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If you plan on doing much welding to a 30, I'd recommend sleeving the tubes to help dissipate that heat out first....and go nice and slow.

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post #149 of 1025 Old 02-27-2013, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
If you plan on doing much welding to a 30, I'd recommend sleeving the tubes to help dissipate that heat out first....and go nice and slow.
For sure! Right now it's a pipe dream. In reality, I'll be slapping some new clevites in the factory mounts and run it for a while. I'll be picking up some upper arms next week from the MC boys.

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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...build-1304260/

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post #150 of 1025 Old 02-27-2013, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03

For sure! Right now it's a pipe dream. In reality, I'll be slapping some new clevites in the factory mounts and run it for a while. I'll be picking up some upper arms next week from the MC boys.
I'd like to hear how inserting the new clevites in the axle mounts goes for you (mostly the casting side). If they are anything like the interference fit of pushing the lower arm clevites into RE control arms, that took all the push my 20 ton press could muster.
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