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Old 04-04-2007, 01:08 AM   #16
GringoLoco
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Update: I'm pretty sure my fan clutch is shot. I drove up to Pep Boys, my engine was nice and toasty by the time I got there. I immediately got out and gave the fan a spin. It spun almost as freely as when it was cold, easily a good 3 or 4 revolutions with just a modest tug. So I picked up a fan clutch there, and a fan clutch wrench kit. That sucked, they only had an entire kit with a butt load of different sizes. I was able to rent it for 10 days, but it costed me a $99 deposit.

I also disconnected my front DS from the yoke at the differential, and zip tied it up. Yep, noise gone. I don't have a U-joint press or anything, so tonight I'll just disconnect the DS from the rear as well, makes me nervous with it just zip tied to my UCA, lol.

So how much should I expect to spend rebuilding my front DS? I'm not even sure exactly what I need. I checked Stu's writeups, and feel confident that I could do it pretty easily, but I'm not clear on what I need to buy vs re-use. I don't really know how to tell if anything in there is bad or not.

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Old 05-09-2007, 12:17 PM   #17
dsavy86
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I hope this is not too late, but I found the source of my squeak and think yours may sound similar. The U-joints on the late 90s TJs, do not have grease nipples on them, so the bushings are sealed up with grease in them from the factory. Moog makes replacements that you can grease when you need to. I am getting both of mine on the front DS replaced tomorrow for $132, AT A SHOP!!! That was the source of my squeak. Everything else on them is sealed really well already and not likely to cause that type of noise from what I understand. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-09-2007, 12:21 PM   #18
Jerry Bransford
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No Wranglers ever came with greasable u-joints. Unless I wheeled in deep mud all the time and could keep up with greasing the u-joints as often as they require, I would stick with sealed u-joints. And with a few exceptions like CTM's greasable u-joints that don't have this issue, greasable u-joints are weaker due to the grease channels running through the body.
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Old 05-09-2007, 01:04 PM   #19
CB3
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Let's see, let me count the ways:

1) thermostat

2) fan

3) radiator

4) water pump

That's all I can think of. That's in order from least money to fix, to most.
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Old 05-09-2007, 01:05 PM   #20
CB3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
No Wranglers ever came with greasable u-joints. Unless I wheeled in deep mud all the time and could keep up with greasing the u-joints as often as they require, I would stick with sealed u-joints. And with a few exceptions like CTM's greasable u-joints that don't have this issue, greasable u-joints are weaker due to the grease channels running through the body.
A-men. I agree with Jerry. If grease can get in (by zerc fitting), then so can water, mud, etc. Even if greasable U-joints were/are available, you're much better off with sealed ones, especially on an off-road rig that sees dust, mud, and/or water.
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Old 05-09-2007, 11:35 PM   #21
GringoLoco
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Bummer, I already bought a set of Spicer greaseable U-joints for my front DS. I've been taking my time rebuilding it, haven't even touched it yet, lol. It's still sitting in my garage. I don't play on the rocks, so I'm not too worried about strength. True that water and mud could theoretically get into the zerk fitting, but it's only a u-joint, not as big a problem as water or mud getting into a transmission or something. If it becomes a problem, next time I'll get sealed ones, they're cheap enough to play around with different ones.

The overheating was indeed caused by a shot fan clutch. Now with the new one, my temp guage stays put right where I want it no matter what I'm doing. Engine is frickin crazy loud now though, lol. I swear my fan is now louder than my flowmaster 40, lol. I also haven't had that weird engine glitch where when I start it up it sputters and barely runs for a few minutes. I'm thinking it was related to the high temps. Either running hot messes with the ignition timing, or it's some sort of self-preservation code in the software to keep the revs down during an overtemp. Either way, it's fixed now. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:53 AM   #22
ryobi
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Only one: heat.
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:13 PM   #23
GringoLoco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryobi
Only one: heat.
Way to keep it simple, lol.
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No hi-lift on the hood (yet)
Odd noises
Still can't get it to take off from a treadmill....
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