i just changed mine. it was backordered so make sure you can get one before you pull yours apart. they are only $16 new.
mine would start if I turned the key a whole bunch of times until it finally cranked. I assume dirty connectors internal to the switch,. new one works fine
as far as changing the switch im sure theres a proper way. but heres how it went for me.
disconnect battery positive and ground positive terminal
remove 4 screws from bottom plastic cover and remove bottom then top column covers
remove 2 screws from the top of turn signal cluster, you will need a hollow torx and raise it up so you can get to the switch screw
remove one screw from ignition switch (different size hollow torx)
unplug ignition switch
pull ignition switch out toward the driver door, it snaps so it takes a little force
heres where it was tricky for me.
the new switch is set to the off position, you cant install it in the run position.
there is a white plastic rod inside of the column rod that you need to line up in the new switch then snap it in place and reassemble.
I removed the lock cylinder when I did mine and with the lock cylinder removed I moved it to off position and installed the switch, but you cant put the lock cylinder back on in the run position so I reached in with a 3/8 extension and turned the lock to run and reinserted the cylinder.
I think it is meant to be replaced in the off position so I would try that first.
[COLOR=Navy][SIZE=2]03 Patriot Blue Sport[/SIZE][/COLOR]
Rubi d44 both ends, Crane Diff Covers, Rock trac t-case
Tom Woods CV DS, Alloy USA rear axles (waiting for install) ARB front bumper, Rock-it-Man Rockers
knoblock rear bumper, OBA in process,
bestop tire carrier, 35-12.5-16 trXus MT's on MOABs with 1.25 spidertrax
Currie HD steering
Nth Degree 6" LA kit. Garvin Wilderness Rack w/hi-lift mnt
HEMI & 5spd Auto