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Unread 11-13-2009, 06:03 PM   #1
Benderff
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How to do a rear axle swap. (bolt in axle)

I have seen a few people asking how to do this, so I threw a little write-up together when I did my swap.


Edit- Driveshaft info = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/da...4-swap-443329/

Extra info- Lupinsea's Rubicon D44 swap (includes Pump, Electrical, and yoke info) = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...s-pix-1235836/

Camper49's D44 swap = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/98...ctures-502029/

Camper49's HP D30 Swap = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/hi...ctures-505610/

Another HP D30 swap = http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/hp.../#post12999579



For you safety start by blocking the front tires, and loosen the rear lug nuts. Next raise your Jeep and support it on jack stands. Move your lift under the rear axle and secure the axle to the jack. Now remove the wheels.


started with the brake lines. Disconnect the hydraulic brake line at the line mount on the frame with a 7/16” wrench. You can then remove the mount from the frame with a T40 torx bit. You will obviously leak some brake fluid so be ready to collect it. I used one my rubber gloves over the end to stop the leak from going all over the place.

Boodyrider suggested; A golf tee, or the uncut cap from a silicone gasket tube, works well to plug an open brake line and prevent most leakage.


Now to the parking brake lines. Start by loosening the long bolt with a 9/16” wrench. It needs to be loose enough to allow the ends of the cables to slip out.


I found you can use a 13mm box end wrench over the prongs of the cables to push them and allow the cable ends to slip right out.


Now on to the breather tube. I used a pair of pliers to open up the crimped part of the metal band and slip the tube off. Just remember you will want to pick up a small worm gear clamp to hold the breather on the new axle.


Now you can remove the drive line from the axle with a 5/16” socket and zip tie the shaft up and out of your way.


Next remove the sway bar links. My extended links for my lift kit needed a 5/8" socket and an 11/16” wrench to get them off. Now is a good time to pop the sway bar off if you need it on your new axle. You will need a 5/8” socket to pull the four bolts off. Now is a good time to mention you should look at the nuts on you new axle to make sure they are in good shape. It looks like there is a lot of copper in the nuts, or the welds so the nuts themselves seem to end up in bad shape. I think there are a few ways to fix them. I used a small metal slug and a hammer to pop the old nuts out. I bought new hardware and welded on a little keeper bar so I could torque them down. I’m sure there are easier ways to do it.



Now remove the lower shocks from the mount. I used a socket and wrench, one in 15mm and one 18mm. Compress the shocks so they are out of your way.


On to the track bar. You will need a T55 torx if you still have the factory hardware. Make sure and use a lot of PB blaster of other agent to help with the removal. If you still have the factory hardware do yourself a favor and buy a grade 8 hex bolt that will work with the armed nut.


Now is a good time to clean up your mess if you are like me and have pulled half your tools under the Jeep with you.

I went to the upper control arms and removed them with a 15mm socket and wrench.


Double check your axle and make sure it’s not going to fall on you. Now you can remove the lower control arms from the axle with a 13/16” socket and wrench. A large breaker bar will come in very handy.


You can now remove the sickness from your Jeep.


Time for the new axle. I used two jacks to lift the axle into place.


Start with the control arms. Line them up and slip the bolts though. Run the nuts down so the bolts, but you won’t torque anything until the wheels are back on and the weight of the Jeep is on the axle. While you are moving things around to fit the control arms watch the track bar, and line it up while you are at it.


Once you have the hardware on the track bar do not torque it yet also. You can then pull the shocks down and mount them. Go ahead and torque them to 74 ft lbs.


Line up and connect the sway bar links. Torque them to 40 ft lbs.

Run the parking brake cables and slip them into place and connect the ends. You will need to adjust the cables, and also the parking brake pads later on.
Connect you hydralic brake line and bolt it the frame again. You can bleed your brakes now (a good idea) or wait till later.

Install the vent hose with the new worm gear band.

Cut the zip ties holding the drive shaft up and connect it to the new axle. Having the transfer case in neutral makes this easier. Torque the bolts down to 14ft lbs.


Now double check that the axle has gear fluid in it.

Put your springs in and check your bump stops while you are at it. Now you can put your wheels on.

Now you can lift the Jeep up to remove your jack stands and then lower it all the way down.

Tighten the lower control arm bolts to 130 ft lbs.

If you have an adjustable rear track bar take a look and see if you need to adjust it for some reason. I had to adjust mine just a little. Torque the track bar bolt to 74 ft lbs.

Hopefully you have a SYE and CV shaft already. In my opionion it is one of the best things you can do to your Jeep. Now you need to check your pinion angle and adjust it as needed. Once that is set torque the upper control arms to 55 ft lbs.

Make sure your brakes are all bleed, and that you are topped off with gear lube. Grease all the fittings then take a test drive, and Enjoy!


If you happen to do an OX locker you will need to install your shifter. Here is how I did it.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ox...nstall-882049/


Last edited by Benderff; 11-15-2009 at 11:07 AM..
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Unread 11-13-2009, 09:29 PM   #2
MudDuck99
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this well be very helpful. Thanks for the write up.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 04:57 PM   #3
Mttrek360
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Great thread!.....Congrats man! Looks good, I was just thinking about your swap the other day.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 08:43 PM   #4
Benderff
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Thanks guys. I'm glad it's im. The jeep is a lot more fun to drive again. I need to hurry up and get the HP 30 in the front now. I couldn't believe the difference the locker and gear ratio made. I just went through a trail I had been running in 4 wheel before with no problem in 2 wheel drive.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 09:10 PM   #5
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Nice work.

I'm going to add a link to this thread in the FAQ.

You just have one typo here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
...Now you can remove the axle shaft from the axle with a 5/16” socket and zip tie the shaft up and out of your way...
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Unread 11-14-2009, 09:25 PM   #6
cheech66
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nice work man tks
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Unread 11-14-2009, 11:13 PM   #7
Benderff
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Thanks.
Fixed it


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
Nice work.

I'm going to add a link to this thread in the FAQ.

You just have one typo here:
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Unread 11-15-2009, 05:46 AM   #8
Voodoo_Chile
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wow, nice work, make it look like childs play! how long did it take you to do the swap?
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Unread 11-15-2009, 05:52 AM   #9
Boodyrider
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Suggestion, maybe add to original writeup:

A golf tee, or the uncut cap from a silicone gasket tube, works well to plug an open brake line and prevent most leakage.
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Unread 11-15-2009, 11:25 AM   #10
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Thanks. I think you could do a swap in an easy day. I did the swap over a couple days. The first day I put a tummy tuck on and then I pulled the old axle. I had a couple snags on the new axle. I didn’t catch that the shop had pressed on the wrong retainer plates on the shafts. Then I mounted the brake calipers using the L and R stamps on them which put the bleeder valve down so they wouldn’t bleed correctly. And I had to fix the sway bar mounts. I’d recommend air tools, and a friend to at least help with lining the new axle up to really speed it up.

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Originally Posted by jpamb View Post
wow, nice work, make it look like childs play! how long did it take you to do the swap?
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Unread 11-15-2009, 11:28 AM   #11
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Perfect. Added to the write-up. I couldn't find anything around my garage that was the right size when I did it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
Suggestion, maybe add to original writeup:

A golf tee, or the uncut cap from a silicone gasket tube, works well to plug an open brake line and prevent most leakage.
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Unread 12-08-2009, 11:39 AM   #12
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Adding this to the Boot Camp thread as well. Thanks for your efforts.
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Unread 12-08-2009, 11:41 AM   #13
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No problem. Thanks
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Unread 01-04-2010, 01:57 AM   #14
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do you need to have adjustable arms for an axle swap? I have a d35 that i'm looking to replace but have stock arms for the moment and was wondering if that will work. thanks
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Unread 01-04-2010, 11:55 AM   #15
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You would need adjustable uppers if you did an SYE kit. You could get by fine with the stock arms.
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