How to Burp Radiator? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
VnutZ
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How to Burp Radiator?

This is probably a dumb and simplistic question - but how do you burp the radiator?

My cooling system is all stock and was recently flushed. They used the HOAT because I brought it to them. A prior service center put in the non-HOAT stuff before (because I didn't know at the time and it's what they put in there) ... could there be any residual effects from that?

BACK STORY
I just want to work through some stuff on my cooling system. After driving from MD to AZ over the past 48 hours, I was nearly overheating on several spans especially across TX. I had to run the cabin heat on full to keep the engine temperatures at 220 otherwise it rose into the 240s (and this is measuring with ScanGauge off ECU - ignoring the stupid dash temp which says I was at 210). I could maintain a steady engine temp if I kept my speed at 60mph with the heater on.

I did call Warn up about the PowerPlant blocking the radiator for any advice on mounting it on different plates, etc. and they told me it was fine (from their Death Valley and load testing with MOPAR) to run the Jeep continuously in the 230s up to 240. They did advise that sustaining temps above 240 was a bad idea but I could stop in my cooling quest once I maintain a steady 230s range.

And Yes - I've already searched and the search tool just keeps finding threads telling you to burp it, not how to burp it.


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post #2 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 12:26 PM
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Besides search on JF there is a really cool thing called Google, here let me show you: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=How+to+burp+your+radiator

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post #3 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 12:27 PM
chris142
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Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing. Fill the Radiator untill water comes out of the nipple where the heater hose was.

Put the heater hose on and continue to fill the Radiator. Once it's full put the Radiator cap on, start the engine and hold it @ 2000 rpm untill the thermostat opens. Turn it of. Check and fill the Radiator after it has cooled.
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Besides search on JF there is a really cool thing called Google, here let me show you: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=How+to+burp+your+radiator
JF strongly frowns on just telling our fellow members to do a Search in response to a question. I can't wait for you to ask a question that could conceivably be found by searching for the answer.

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post #5 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 01:21 PM
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JF strongly frowns on just telling our fellow members to do a Search in response to a question. I can't wait for you to ask a question that could conceivably be found by searching for the answer.
When I do, please point it out to me!!

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post #6 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 02:37 PM
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Starting with a cold engine remove the radiator cap and run the engine until the thermostat opens. However with a full radiator that might be a bit messy. I would normally do that when refilling the system.

Unless there is TON of air in the system any little bit left will eventually work its way out through the overflow bottle. Usually a couple days after re filling everything the lid on my overflow bottle will pop open.
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by freeskier93 View Post
Starting with a cold engine remove the radiator cap and run the engine until the thermostat opens. However with a full radiator that might be a bit messy. I would normally do that when refilling the system.

Unless there is TON of air in the system any little bit left will eventually work its way out through the overflow bottle. Usually a couple days after re filling everything the lid on my overflow bottle will pop open.
yup, pretty much how I do it...a modified version of the FSM procedure...just pour fluid in till it comes out the cap. with the engine off & cold, I squeeze the upper hose and push as much air out as I can, then keep filling the radiator till no more bubbles come out. then i fill the overflow bottle above the "Hot/Full" mark and go for a drive. it usually sucks in most of the fluid in the overflow bottle on that drive, and later I top it off as necessary till its at the "Cold/Full" mark when cold.

if you overfill it the worst that happens is it sprays the inside of the engine compartment with glycol if you're smart, you'll clamp on a 5/8" line to the overflow spout and route it down (i'm not smart enough yet).


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post #8 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 08:03 PM
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Kind of a side question about trapped air in cooling systems, but since 2 mods are already here and it might help the OP

A buddy of mine is having sporadic overheating problems. His cooling system is completely rebuilt, hoses, radiator, tstat, oem water pump. New ATK motor and still over heats.

It runs perfect 208* for about a week and the all the sudden starts pegging the gauge ~260 degrees. It has one of those prestone flush kits with the "T" connection on the upper heater core hose. Once it starts overheating we have found we can open the T on the heater core hose and let it release air for almost twenty minutes as it cools down. I know the system is under pressure, but its an absurd amount of air. After it releases the air its good for another week until the air builds up again. If you only let it cool and not open the T it will overheat again in minutes.

Where is the air getting trapped?

Thanks and sorry for the hijack, hopefully it helps OP
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ytowntj View Post
Kind of a side question about trapped air in cooling systems, but since 2 mods are already here and it might help the OP

A buddy of mine is having sporadic overheating problems. His cooling system is completely rebuilt, hoses, radiator, tstat, oem water pump. New ATK motor and still over heats.

It runs perfect 208* for about a week and the all the sudden starts pegging the gauge ~260 degrees. It has one of those prestone flush kits with the "T" connection on the upper heater core hose. Once it starts overheating we have found we can open the T on the heater core hose and let it release air for almost twenty minutes as it cools down. I know the system is under pressure, but its an absurd amount of air. After it releases the air its good for another week until the air builds up again. If you only let it cool and not open the T it will overheat again in minutes.

Where is the air getting trapped?

Thanks and sorry for the hijack, hopefully it helps OP
A closed cooling system won't "make" air. Your buddy has either a small leak and it's slowly leaking untill it gets low enough to over heat or a blown headgasket or cracked head.
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 08:11 PM
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I realize how a closed system works, thats why Im puzzled.

It has a brand new ATK stroker in it, comps fine.

Literally every component is new in the cooling system and the coolant is still all there. its just building air someway/somehow. Im starting to wonder if maybe the stem coming out of the radiator to the overflow bottle is clogged, or never open from the factory as its an aftermarket radiator.

Im completely at a loss and tired of watching 20 minutes of steamy air whoosh out of the heater hose when on the trail
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post #11 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 08:15 PM
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One thing that can help make trapped air a distant memory is to install a thermostat with an air bleed hole in it. Or if you can't find one, drill a 1/8" hole into your thermostat mounting flange. The hole allows any trapped air to bleed out and into the radiator where it can be passed.

The first pic shows an aftermarket thermostat with a bleed hole, the second pic shows one that has been drilled. Mount the thermostat with the bleed hole at the top. Make sure too to only use a 195 degree thermostat in the TJ.
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thermostat slot.jpg   thermostat hole.jpg  

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post #12 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 08:27 PM
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Interesting Jerry.

Ill see what his tstat looks like and possibly drill it. Ill try anything at this point as Im tired of being the designated go to guy for his cooling issues
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-31-2011, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
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Interesting Jerry.

Ill see what his tstat looks like and possibly drill it. Ill try anything at this point as Im tired of being the designated go to guy for his cooling issues
Jerry knows what he speaks of - then again I've heard him saying it for what...a dozen or more years now? The hole in the t-stat does an amazing job for getting rid of bubbles in the coolant. Been doing it in my Cherokees ever since living in Arizona.
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