How to bleed clutch? - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > TJ Wrangler Technical Forum > How to bleed clutch?

Engo winches available at www.rockridge4wd.com! Free shippG2 Disc Brake Conversion Kit for Jeep Wrangler YJ TJ LJ ChFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

Reply
Unread 03-27-2004, 11:02 PM   #1
ForkLift
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Chesapeake Beach MD
Posts: 337
How to bleed clutch?

I'm stumped? I repaired a broken hydro line that runs from the master cylinder to the trans. A tree branch somehow went up into my skid plate and cut right through it. Anyways now its time to bleed the system and I cant find the bleeder valve. Is it down on the master cylinder, or located somewhere eles? Once I find it are there any tips on bleeding the system? thanks for any help

__________________
97' 4 banger, 4.11's, D35/D30, 4" roughcountry lift, 1" BL, 8000lb Harborfreight winch, Stinger bumper, Cobra CB, KC lites, 33x12.5 TSL bias mounted on black steelies.
ForkLift is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-28-2004, 07:51 AM   #2
ForkLift
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Chesapeake Beach MD
Posts: 337
After some more research I've found that it is impossible to bleed the clutch system. It comes pre-done at the factory and the only way to bleed it would be to buy a new master cylinder valve that comes with a bleeder.

I repaired a small piece of the metal tube that runs from the master cyl. to the clutch itself. I know a small amount of air must of been traped in there when I installed it. So, I guess I'll just put some fluid in the resovior and slowly pump the clutch a few times. Then let it sit for a while, and hope the air bubble will find its way out of the top of the resovior. I'll leave the cap off so any air can escape. I guess if this doesnt work I'll have to buy all new master cyl.

I never looked at it before, but that area where the metal tubeing goes into the clutch housing is very vulnerable to damage. It is not under the skid plate but instead way at the front end of it, open to all the off-road hazards to poke at it. I've been wheelin for over 3 years with this Jeep and never had any problems with this till last night. oh well, murphys law...
__________________
97' 4 banger, 4.11's, D35/D30, 4" roughcountry lift, 1" BL, 8000lb Harborfreight winch, Stinger bumper, Cobra CB, KC lites, 33x12.5 TSL bias mounted on black steelies.
ForkLift is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-20-2006, 05:51 PM   #3
Dragon_1973
Registered User
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ontario Canada (Near London)
Posts: 132
Is this still true? There is no way to bleed a clutch on a '97? Mine started acting funny, hard to get in gear, grabbing as soon as you were a hair off the floor. I found the resevoir to be empty, so I filled it, but I really think it's got air in line(s) now.

On the topic of empty, any idea where to start looking for a leak? In a quick glance, I saw nothing obvious.
Dragon_1973 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-20-2006, 06:08 PM   #4
Red_
Registered User
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Danville, CA
Posts: 1,380
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon_1973
Is this still true? There is no way to bleed a clutch on a '97? Mine started acting funny, hard to get in gear, grabbing as soon as you were a hair off the floor. I found the resevoir to be empty, so I filled it, but I really think it's got air in line(s) now.

On the topic of empty, any idea where to start looking for a leak? In a quick glance, I saw nothing obvious.
Your clutch is warn. The fluid level drops as it wears out, also it engages lower. How many miles?
Red_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-21-2006, 08:12 AM   #5
Dragon_1973
Registered User
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ontario Canada (Near London)
Posts: 132
It's got nearly 200,000 Kms... (125,000 miles).

If it's warn out, wouldn't it grab at the end fo the clutch throw, not right at the very beginning?
Dragon_1973 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-21-2006, 12:35 PM   #6
Red_
Registered User
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Danville, CA
Posts: 1,380
Sounds like you are nearing the end of its life. 125k on a stock clutch is pretty good.

It depends on the vehicle. On a jeep as the clutch wears the engagement point gets closer and closer to the floor. On a 3000GT a friend of mine has, his was the opposite, his begins to grab higher up as it wore.
Red_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-21-2006, 12:39 PM   #7
Dragon_1973
Registered User
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ontario Canada (Near London)
Posts: 132
Just got it back from the machanic... he was able to bleed it and it was full of air. Now it grabs about 1/3 the way up from the floor, and feals a lot more solid.
Dragon_1973 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-24-2006, 11:55 AM   #8
Dragon_1973
Registered User
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ontario Canada (Near London)
Posts: 132
ok... well, I'm back again with this problem... Obviously, something is leaking somewhere... the master or slave. I'm going to crawl around underneath tonight to see if I can figure it out.

Is there a part/location that's got more issues that others? Does anybody have any tips/tricks/frustrations on something like this?

Thx.
Dragon_1973 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-24-2006, 12:37 PM   #9
jeep_chinto
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 553
to bleed the cluch there is a little bleader behind the bell houseing on the passanger side that sticks out slightly looks like a break line basicaly moves slightly foward to back sorry i dont have any pictures of it

you could still have air in the line or possably the line you place is just leakn slightly from a connector just try snugging them up and re bleading the clutch makeing sure to keep the break fluid full whyll bleeding the cluch

after re reading ur first post sounds like possably the tree cut off the bleader portion of the line... if i rember correctly the slave cyl is up higher and the master cyl is in the tranny next to the clutch it self..
jeep_chinto is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-24-2006, 12:44 PM   #10
TruckMuddr
Always Something
 
TruckMuddr's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 189
From All-Data:
The clutch hydraulic system is a sealed maintenance free system. In the event of leakage or other malfunction, the system must be replaced.
__________________
Richard Harvey Jr.
'04 TJ, X, 4.0, Auto, Silver, D30/D44 w/LS & 4.56's, RC 4" Series II, PA 3" BL, Advanced Adapter's TC Bracket, 15x12 Eagle Alloys 058, 15/35-15 TSL, 4x K/C DayLighters & Windshield Mounts, Ventvisor's Bugsheild, Door Sill & Window Vents, Fabtech Front Bumper & homemade Rear W/ Backup Lights, Hurculiner.

On-Going Picture Thread

"It's Always Something And It's Never Good" - TruckMuddr
TruckMuddr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-24-2006, 12:46 PM   #11
Dragon_1973
Registered User
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ontario Canada (Near London)
Posts: 132
By "System" you mean the MC, SC and line connecting the two? There is not much else is there?

MC=Master Cylinder
SC=Slave Cylinder
Dragon_1973 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-24-2006, 01:06 PM   #12
TruckMuddr
Always Something
 
TruckMuddr's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 189
INSPECTION
The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave cylinder and fluid lines are pre-filled with fluid at the factory during assembly operations. The hydraulic system should not require additional fluid under normal circumstances. The reservoir fluid level will actually increase as normal clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling, or removing fluid from the reservoir. Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder reservoir. An indicator ring is provided on the outside of the reservoir. With the cap and diaphragm removed, fluid level should not be above indicator ring. To avoid contaminating the hydraulic fluid during inspection, wipe reservoir and cover clean before removing the cap.

NOTE: Clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and connecting line are serviced as an assembly only. Components cannot be overhauled or serviced separately. Cylinders and connecting line are sealed units.
__________________
Richard Harvey Jr.
'04 TJ, X, 4.0, Auto, Silver, D30/D44 w/LS & 4.56's, RC 4" Series II, PA 3" BL, Advanced Adapter's TC Bracket, 15x12 Eagle Alloys 058, 15/35-15 TSL, 4x K/C DayLighters & Windshield Mounts, Ventvisor's Bugsheild, Door Sill & Window Vents, Fabtech Front Bumper & homemade Rear W/ Backup Lights, Hurculiner.

On-Going Picture Thread

"It's Always Something And It's Never Good" - TruckMuddr
TruckMuddr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-24-2006, 02:49 PM   #13
ytodd
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: IL
Posts: 1,373
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Dragon
Your clutch is warn. The fluid level drops as it wears out, also it engages lower.

Your half right. As the clutch wears the resevoir level will actually increase.

Double checked against the Factory Service Manual (FSM).

"The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances. The reservoir
fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling, or removing
fluid from the reservoir."
ytodd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-24-2006, 06:30 PM   #14
Red_
Registered User
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Danville, CA
Posts: 1,380
Quote:
Originally Posted by ytodd
Your half right. As the clutch wears the resevoir level will actually increase.

Double checked against the Factory Service Manual (FSM).

"The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances. The reservoir
fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling, or removing
fluid from the reservoir."
Whoops thanks for the fix
Red_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-25-2006, 08:53 AM   #15
Wooders
Registered User
1975 CJ6 
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Sydney, Aust.
Posts: 295
The FSM is WRONG.
The problem above sounds like the slave seal is stuffed.
A replacement slave can be purchased from 4wdHardware or Omix-ada to made a few....Cost about $60.
It's a VERY simple job to do.
And it's even simpler to bleed - it's self bleeding - Ie don't touch the stupid "bleeding" valve.
Before you rebolt the slave onto the belhousing manually pump the slave whilst topping the res up. Might take 50 to 100 manual pumps of the slave piston by hand - but it's VERY simple.

We have don't this on several vehicles now & I think I could probably change in less than 10minutes these days....
anyhow please search I have covered this a few times in the past.
__________________
Cheers
Wooders


Sydney Jeep Club
Wooders is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.