Hidden fees of a lift? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 29 Old 06-15-2013, 08:37 PM
tyvanwie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971CJ5Man

So if I install a 1" body lift and a 1" MML I should be able to remove my 1" t case drop pucks?
Probably. At least most of it

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post #17 of 29 Old 06-15-2013, 08:47 PM
1971CJ5Man
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Cool that's my next Mod. 1 inch body lift and 1 inch MML. Will build my own, can't see paying for something I can build myself.
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post #18 of 29 Old 06-15-2013, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
some of us like to do stuff right so it works
Very true dude

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post #19 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 07:01 AM
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If u ask what is a MML then u are not ready to do a lift. Not being rude but you have a lot of reading and info look up to do. Go with a 3" and save a lot of headaches or the zone 4.25 combo and use the parts and be happy. A lot that have used that Combe have no SYE ( SYE?? Look it up- lol) Just busting ur balls.
4" is the magic number, some get lucky but most do not and then get into all kinds if other parts.
Good luck.
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post #20 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 07:55 AM
AJeep
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Aso need extended brake lines. If you plan on flexin it.

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post #21 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 09:14 AM
biffgnar
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This talk about 4" being a "magic number" cracks me up. People saying things like that is a disservice to people who come on here looking for advice. There are people that have issues at 2". Lifting a jeep is not a simple and cheap thing. People have to accept that.

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post #22 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 09:17 AM
tyvanwie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar
This talk about 4" being a "magic number" cracks me up. People saying things like that is a disservice to people who come on here looking for advice. There are people that have issues at 2". Lifting a jeep is not a simple and cheap thing. People have to accept that.
This x1000. And the people saying "I didn't have any driveline vibes and I used their 1.5" t case drop." Congrats, you now have the clearance of a 2.5" lift.

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post #23 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
This talk about 4" being a "magic number" cracks me up. People saying things like that is a disservice to people who come on here looking for advice. There are people that have issues at 2". Lifting a jeep is not a simple and cheap thing. People have to accept that.
That is great advice lots of stuff is overlooked. Like brake lines. Gearing, steering ect.


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post #24 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 09:54 AM
1971CJ5Man
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I cut and machined 1" blocks for a MML this morning was going to work on a 1" body lift but my kids informed me it was fathers day and I needed to take a break. I'm going to take some 2" sch 80 pipe and make the body lift pucks with 1" square tubing under the grill supports.
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post #25 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 10:42 AM
AJeep
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A mml does not require a body lift. Just needs to massage the fan shroud a bit.

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post #26 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyvanwie View Post
This x1000. And the people saying "I didn't have any driveline vibes and I used their 1.5" t case drop." Congrats, you now have the clearance of a 2.5" lift.
I'm going to make an 8" LA lift out of old tie rods and use a 3" T case drop with washers.That way I'll still have lifted it 5".

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Springs have one job and one job only and it isn't to affect, determine, or create ride quality.
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post #27 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 11:40 AM
1971CJ5Man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJeep View Post
A mml does not require a body lift. Just needs to massage the fan shroud a bit.
Yea I know but I need an extra 1" of lift 33's on a 3" lift is kinda close to the finders. The extended bump stops do there job but just need to lift the body a little more.
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post #28 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 11:43 AM
KaiserJeep
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You can try to be cheap, or you can do it right. You can buy somebody's used lift and saggy springs, but buying new is wiser. You can scoff at these figures, but I stand by them.

The biggest expense by far is tires. I think it is simply foolish to lift a Jeep, then put on cheap tires. But just so you know, here is what 3" of lift and quality 33's really cost in 2004:

(5) Goodyear MT/R's in LT305/70R16 - $1600.
OME 2" suspension lift - $640
JKS 1.25" Body Lift - $90
JKS 1" Budget Motor Mount Lift - $80
JKS "Quicker" Discos - $90
(2) pair SpyderTrax wheel spacers $200

This was on a Rubicon which already had a slip yoke eliminator on the transfer case, so for any other Wrangler a SYE and new driveshaft will add another $600 to the above $2700 for an even $3300.

Since I also added a winch, I spent another $40 on a pair of 3/4" Daystar spring spacers to avoid droop in the front. Since I had Jeep alloys, I was able to spend $200 on wheel spacers instead of $1600 on wide alloys or $3000 on beadlock wheels. Beadlock's are good, but truly optional - I just don't have them.

The best advice I would give is don't go cheap on anything. Don't buy cheap tires. Don't replace quality factory alloy wheels with cheap steel wheels, which are weaker and heavier. Above all, don't buy cheap springs - my OME lift is 9 years old and not sagging.

I stopped at 33's because that size tire still fits on the tailgate (with a 1.25" Body Lift making extra space), but a rear bumper/tire carrier will set you back another $600 to $1500. (The $600 is buying cheap again.) The 4.11's in a Rubicon are good up to 33's, unless you tow a trailer.

I plan to beef the front shafts ($600) and Vanco brakes ($900) and a re-gear ($1500) because I am now building an off-road trailer. Another $3000 of Jeep upgrades in my future.

If you do not already own a Rubicon, adding lockers costs:
Front axle: ARB locker and alloy shafts - $1600
Rear axle: ARB and shafts: $1500
ARB compressor: $170
....total: $3270 extra. Don't add lockers without beefing the front shafts at least.

That would be: 33's cost $2700 on a Rubicon and $3300 on other models. Adding lockers to a non-Rubicon (another $3270) is not required, but you are foolish not too, unless you are building a street Jeep. The $1500 to re-gear is about $800 if you do it while adding lockers, again you would be foolish not to.

IMHO if you intend to go from 33's to 35's (or larger), these extra expenses happen in addition to those mentioned above:

Front Vanco disks: $900
Rear disk conversion: $600
...total $1500 for new brakes, REQUIRED.

Larger than 33's need 1"-2" more lift is another $400 for shortarms and another $1500 for longarms. More tire size, call that $300.

...therefore the additional expenses from larger-than-33's are $2200-$3300, depending on what you buy.

Some people in this Forum would blow smoke up your rear end and say all these things are not necessary. In that case, I say you will also be paying even more for Jeep recovery and repairs, if you really drive offroad.

Gary
1967 Kaiser Commando
2001 Grand Cherokee WJ
2003 Wrangler Rubicon TJ
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post #29 of 29 Old 06-16-2013, 12:09 PM
1971CJ5Man
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I have Mickey T 33" MTZ's on 18" x 10" alum rims. I look at something like winch bumper, rock sliders, rear tire carrier bumper, steering box skid plate and I fab my own. It's a lot cheeper for me as all I pay for is material and good old sweet. I use to own a fab shop (A&L Fabrication) so I'm not going cheep. I need to get into the off road fab business. I'm a fabricator, if someone out there sells it, I can build it. Like I said all I need to do is look at it and get a drawing in my head and I can build it.
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